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German 
Cookbook 



BY JAN MITCHELL 



The Story and the Favorite 
Dishes of America's Most 
Famous German Restaurant 



WITH AN INTRODUCTION AND ILLUSTRATIONS 
BY LUDWIG BEMELMANS 



Doubleday & Company, Inc., Garden City, New York 



To the Most Wonderful 

People in the World 

My Patrons 



Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 52-5764 

Down Where the Wurzburger Flows, copyright, 1902, by Harry Von 
Tilier Music Pub. Co. Copyright renewed, 1929, and assigned to Harry 
Von Tilzer Music Pub. Co. Used by permission of copyright proprietor. 

Copyright, 1952, by Leonard Jan Mitchell 

AH rights reserved including the right to reproduce this book 

or portions therefrom in any form. 

Printed in the United States of America 

Designed by Alrna Reese Cardi 



CONTENTS 



INTRODUCTION BY LUDWIG BEMELMANS, 11 
THE STORY OF LUCHOW'S, 17 
HOW WE COOK AT LUCHOW'S, 37 

1. Appetizers, 38 

2 . Soups t 48 

3. Fish and Shellfish, 59 

4. Poultry and Game Birds, 73 

5. Meats and Game, 92 

6. Cheese and Eggs, 140 

7. Dumplings and Noodles, 144 

8. Salads and Salad Dressings, 150 

9. Vegetables, 157 

10. Sauces, 171 

11, Desserts, 182 

THE WINES, BEER, AND FESTIVALS AT LUCHOW'S 

OR Down Where the Wurzburger Flows, 207 
INDEX, 215 



INTRODUCTION 
BY LUDWIG 
BEMELMANS 





*The German dictionary defines the word "gemutlick" as good- 
natured, jolly, agreeable, cheerful, hearty, simple and affection- 
ate, full of feeling, comfortable, cozy, snug; and "Gemutlichkeit" 
as a state of mind, an easygoing disposition, good nature, genial- 
ity, pleasantness, a freedom from pecuniary or political cares, 
comfortableness. 

Of the remaining few New York places that can call them- 
selves restaurants, Liichow's triumphs in Gemutlichkeit. This 
quality, strong as the handshake of an old friend and a slap 
on the shoulder, is nowhere more honest. It enfolds you as you 
enter into the agreeable paneled halls. 

A fragrance, delicate, but not weak, and slightly male, rides 
the air. It composes itself of the aromas of solid cooking, of 
roast geese and ducks, of game and Huhn im Topf , of various 
things, sour and spicy, and tender cutlets simmering among 
Steinpilze. 

Through it is wafted the bouquet of good wines, and above 
this hangs the blue cloud of the smoke of rare cigars. This ob- 
scures the stag and moose heads that are part of the decor, 
along with samples of the ironmonger's art. 



Prosit! 13 

The mood is supported by music equally enduring. The or- 
chestra plays such aids to digestion as "Die Forelle" von 
Schubert, "The Tales of Hoffman," "William Tell," and "Silvia/' 
and such romantic fare as "The Evening Star." Occasionally a 
belly laugh echoes through the "Nibelungen Ring," for Liichow's 
clientele for the most part are an uninhibited and happy lot. 

Every kind of restaurant finds its own public. Several of the 
best in New York have a patronage so select that they are 
checked into the premises with elaborate and embarrassing care, 
and seated according to a rigid protocol. 

Mr. Seute, now vice-president of Liichow's, but still func- 
tioning as the Herr Ober, is free of all the pretentiousness of his 
colleagues. He runs the restaurant, he directs traffic, and he 
places people with simple logic, where there is room. The doors 
are open and anyone is welcome. In the words of the venerable 
Mr. Seute: "You don't need a gestarchte shirt front to get in 
here. The only way you cannot come is mitaus a necktie." 

It is as simple and as sound as this. 

Along with the food, the authenticity of its atmosphere, it 
gives me restful ease, and has ever since I have been in America. 
I find it one of those places in which the mind hums in harmony 
with its surroundings. I have spent many pleasant hours there, 
engaged in leaning back and looking at the assemblage of people. 
There are the large parties who call themselves "Our Bunch'* 
and from whom most of the belly laughs issue. 

At other tables sit priests, students, national figures (the late 
Jules Bache was a regular Sunday-night client) , diplomats, poli- 
ticians with Italian friends in race-track suits with pearl stick- 
pins in their neckties, theatrical folk with broad-shouldered 
blondes who have brought along Mama and Papa. It is alive 
with children and with dogs. It is the most kaleidoscopic restau- 
rant in New York. Its waiters are the last of their kind, upstand- 
ing citizens, without a trace of servility in their make-up. 

They are very busy people and sometimes serve you mitaus 
a napkin. Also, they are apt to hand you the menu upside down, 



14 Prosit! 

and a moment after handing it to you, take it back again, 
mumbling, "Der Sauerbraten is aus" and dramatically eliminate 
this delicacy from the menu with a bold stroke of a pencil stub, 
never longer than a smoked-out cigarette. They will then advise 
you about what's left in the kitchen, and also on anything else 
you want to know. It's a solid body of men, trustworthy and 
sound in the head. Their opinions are as definite as those of 
another race of philosophers, the New York taxi driver. 

The only being, as yet, not in complete harmony with the 
establishment is Mr. Jan Mitchell, the new proprietor. He runs 
about the place with cautionary solicitude, worried lest he dis- 
turb anyone, much like a man whose wife lost a glove in a 
movie theater and forgotten where she sat. It is most curious 
that a modern man who looks as if he were in training for the 
winter Olympics should find his happiness in being the curator 
of a Goulash and Wiener Schnitzel Emporium, worrying about 
the consistency of Nudel Soup. 

It is to be hoped that this one flaw will be corrected, that a 
steady diet of Kartoffelknodel, of Wienerschnitzel, and the 
greatest of the delights of Liichow's, the Pfannkuchen mit 
Preisselbeeren, together with the proper amounts of the various 
beers and good wines, will pad his cheeks, round out his 
stomach, and put the roses on his nose. 

We shall then no longer look at him with pity and suspicion, 
and, as we did recently, ask Mr. Seute, a man of proper weight, 
"Who is that man there?" 

And Mr. Seute will not have to answer ashamedly behind his 
menu, as he did, "Oh, that one, mitaus der stomach, das ist der 
Boss." 

Ludwig Bemelmans 



THE 

STORY 

OF 



ttichoto's 



"In a changing world, nothing changes at Liichow's." 
O. O. Mclntyre, the beloved columnist, wrote these 
words twenty years ago, but they are as true today. Liichow's has 
survived three wars, a major depression, Prohibition, and the 
complete transformation of its surroundings, and still it is a 
synonym for that gracious, generous, and leisurely hospitality 
which has all but disappeared from the harassed modern world. 

For seventy years Liichow's has imparted this hospitality, 
offering not only food and drink but the inner contentment that 
comes from enjoying such pleasures in an atmosphere of con- 
tentment, warm, friendly, satisfying both mind and body. 

You may enter Liichow's by either of the two doors in its 
baroque, dark brown exterior, which gazes with old-fashioned 
dignity upon the realities of Fourteenth Street. Once beyond 
these doors, the visitor enters into another world, where he will 
be as welcome as once were his father and grandfather. 

The door on the right, toward Broadway and Union Square, 
leads into one of the few male refuges remaining in New York. 
In more prosaic circles it would be called the bar; at Liichow's 
it has always been known as the Gentlemen's Grill. A man may 



The Story of Luchow's 21 

eat or drink there, safe from the company of women, if that is 
his pleasure. If it is a seidel of Wiirzburger that pleases him, he 
will find himself confronting a vast mahogany stretch of bar, 
its mirrored expanse surmounted by hand carving brought to 
this country from Germany in the eighties, flanked by the crests 
of those Bavarian townships from which our beer is imported. 
At one end stands the knightly figure of Lohengrin, and at the 
other, on the wall, broods a shaggy buffalo head obtained at the 
St. Louis World's Fair in 1904. An oil painting of Bacchus ap- 
propriately surveys this scene from the opposite wall. 

Luchow's other entrance, for the family trade, leads directly 
into a small reception room, where a plaque advises you, 
''Through the doors of Luchow's pass all the famous people of 
the world," a sentiment first expressed by James Montgomery 
Flagg, the artist. But these doors have also welcomed, as they 
always will, men and women from everywhere in the world who 
seek our hospitality. 

They find it at once in the first room they enter, which parallels 
the bar but is completely walled from it. This front room, called 
simply "the restaurant," pre-dates August Llichow, the founder 
himself. It has that nineteenth-century serenity, that air of high- 
ceilinged spaciousness which sets the tone of Luchow's. To see 
its dark woods, the gas fixtures whose electric bulbs are a single 
concession to progress, and the leisurely diners is to witness a 
scene from the gracious past. Everywhere on the walls are re- 
minders of it: oils by German and Dutch artists, a porcelain 
statue of Frederick the Great, and the first installment of an 
admirable collection of steins which line the walls of all the 
rooms. The intricate carving on these steins scenes of hunting, 
battle, and religion are reminders of the Liichow heritage, 
which goes beyond its American beginnings to the spacious eat- 
ing and drinking places of Munich and Hamburg, and the glories 
of the Rhine Valley. 

One of these steins, a tall, graceful piece which holds six 
quarts, was presented to Luchow's by the town of Wiirzburg, 



22 Liichow's German Cookbook 

whose beer is our pride. It rests on the ledge which divides the 
"restaurant" room from the main rooms inside. The small space 
between, an anteroom with a narrow passage for customers, is 
decorated on one wall with photographs of the celebrities and 
their parties who have enjoyed our hospitality for so many years. 
This anteroom is also the headquarters of a vast, autocratic, yet 
genial gentleman, Ernst Seute, our maitre d'hotel. 

Mr. Seute has a desk at the left, and from it he can see the 
pictures of those personages whom he has welcomed in his dec- 
ades of service, or he can look out into those rooms where he 
presides at luncheon and dinner. He sits at the desk only a few 
hours out of the day, however. Most often he is waiting for you, 
beaming and benevolent, as you emerge into the main rooms. He 
has been at this post since 1912 the unofficial host of Four- 
teenth Street. 

The ceilings are higher in these inner, main rooms, and the 
vistas are expansive. The anteroom, which we call the Hall of 
Fame, leads directly to the Garden through a fine hand-carved 
entrance. In the nineties, the Garden was literally that an out- 
door drinking salon in the German manner. Now its huge sky- 
lights suggest an indoor garden, and a mirror which nearly 
covers the east wall reflects its perennial gaiety. A large painting 
of Wiirzburg looks down upon the May wine bowls, a collection 
of Mettlach wine pitchers graces one shelf, and the steins are 
everywhere. 

Only a lattice arrangement separates the Garden from the 
parallel Cafe, into which one comes from the street by way of the 
Gentlemen's Grill. Here, too, the scene is illuminated by the glass 
skylights done in the fifteenth-century style of Hans Sachs. Be- 
sides its stein collection, the Cafe is noted for its models of two 
of Columbus's ships, and an oil portrait of August Liichow, in. 
apparent satisfied contemplation of what has been done with Ms 
life's work. 

The Cafe leads into, by means of a two-step elevation, the 
Hunt Room, where twenty-one mounted deer heads gaze in 



The Story of Luchow's 23 

blank nonchalance upon the pleasant spectacle of their de- 
scendants being eaten with considerable satisfaction, and still 
further onward, toward Thirteenth Street, the Hunt Room opens 
into the Nibelungen Room, where Wagner's heroic figures float 
majestically about the upper borders in lush murals. 

Similarly, on the other side, one moves from the Garden by 
the same two steps into the largest room of all, running parallel 
to the Nibelungen and Hunt rooms. We call this the New Room. 
It is only a little more than fifty years old. 

The New Room is perhaps the most remarkable for several 
reasons. There at the entrance, for example, stands a splendid 
model of the four-masted Great Republic, launched by Donald 
McKay at East Boston on October 4, 1853, and burned a few 
weeks later at the pier in New York, where she was taking on 
cargo for her maiden voyage. 

Art dominates the New Room. Small masterpieces of the 
Dutch, Austrian, and Flemish schools illuminate the walls, in- 
cluding an oil by Frans Snyders, one of Rubens' students, de- 
picting a man with a bag of game. At the far end of the room is 
the prize of the collection, an enormous oil completely covering 
one wall, Auguste Hagborg's "October The Potato Gathering." 
It covers the wall because August Liichow bought it to fit the 
space; only later did he discover that the amorous eyes of 
museum curators were upon it. 

Another reminder of Herr August is at the Garden end of the 
New Room a mirror tipped between ceiling and entrance so 
that the proprietor, from his office upstairs, could see what 
customers were enjoying his food and awaiting his presence. 

Oddly enough, if anything has changed at Luchow's it is this 
same New Room. Once it was the stable attached to the place, 
and out of it rolled the heavy beer wagons, drawn by splendid 
horses, carrying barrels of Wiirzburger to other thirsty portions 
of the city. August Liichow was its authorized New York dis- 
tributor. 

The site of our present kitchens was formerly occupied by 



24 Luchow's German Cookbook 

the Hubert Museum, which housed an assortment of wax figures 
and a few cages of wild animals. When the museum was vacating 
these premises to allow for the building of our new kitchens a 
lion escaped and stalked into the dining room, which was filled 
with patrons dining in a leisurely and sedate manner. Instantly 
the room was in a state of panic. Hoop skirts, which were the 
fashion of the day, did not deter the ladies from mounting the 
table nearest them. The sound of screams, accompanied by the 
crashing of china and glassware, and the sight of the flying hoop 
skirts so startled the lion that he turned, tail between his legs, 
and ran back into the museum. Some of the terror of the patrons 
could have been averted had they only known that the lion was 
so aged he had no teeth and had been fed for so many years on 
scraps from the Liichow kitchen that a meal of human flesh was 
of no interest to him. 



II 

Liichow's is more than a restaurant; it is a way of life. August 
Guido Liichow, who created it, and whose mirror and portrait 
are now the only visible reminders of his expansive, happy 
personality, is still present in the spirit of the restaurant he 
founded, in its devotion to good living and good friends. 

August was a Hanoverian who came to America in 1879, 
when he was in his early twenties, and went to work at once in 
Stewart's Saloon on Duane Street, where domestic beer and 
imported wines were the libations, and expensive oil paintings 
were the principal decoration. 

He was there only a year before he came uptown to work as 
bartender and waiter for the Baron von Mehlbach, who operated 
a place dealing exclusively in beer. The future Liichow's was 
then only an eighth of its present size. It ended far short of 
Thirteenth Street, where women of low repute congregated on 
the fringes of gay Fourteenth. 



The Story of Luchow's 25 

Young August had the ancient German virtue of thrift, and 
with the help of William Steinway, he was able within two years 
to buy out the Baron. He was only twenty-six. Almost at once 
his restaurant became the warmhearted, convivial capital of a 
Fourteenth Street world that is no more. 

Union Square was the center of that world. It was not the 
crowded Square of proletarian oratory and Bowery backwash 
that we know today, but a quiet park with a great fountain at 
its center, lofty elms and maples shading it, and gas lamps 
illuminating its borders. On its west side were the fashionable 
shops of Tiffany, the Le Boutillier Brothers, Vantine's, Hearn's, 
Macy's, and Brentano's. On the east side was Dead Man's Curve, 
notorious as the worst traffic spot in America. There the cable 
cars came charging around the curve from Broadway into the 
Square, forced to travel at full speed and with the brakes re- 
leased, or the cable grip would fail and the cars stop. 

Fourteenth Street east of the Square was a happy succession of 
German beer halls and Italian wine gardens. August Liichow was 
in good company with Lienau's, a beer house kept by a venerable 
German couple, and with Brubacher's Wine Garden, the Cafe 
Hungaria, the Alhambra Gardens, and all the other German, 
Austrian, and Hungarian places where beer was a nickel and a 
free lunch of pretzels, cheese, sausage, and pickles went with it. 

Luchow's place faced the five-block thoroughfare of Irving 
Place, where there were more luminaries of the theater, art, and 
literary worlds in residence than in any other neighborhood in 
the nation, perhaps in the world. Nearby was the Academy of 
Music, where Adelina Patti had made her debut in 1859, and 
Steinway Hall, where Rubinstein and Wieniawski were perform- 
ing joint recitals in 1872. Around the corner was Tony Pastor's 
Theatre, in which Fritzi Scheff played "Mile. Modiste" and had 
herself advertised on Luchow's menus. 

They all came to Luchow's. There was gentle irony in James 
Huneker's famous line, "I took a walk and got as far as 
Luchow's," remembering that on the day he wrote it he had 



26 Luchow's German Cookbook 

taken up residence in the Morton House, at the corner of Broad- 
way and Fourteenth Street. Huneker and Rafael Joseffy organ- 
ized the Bohemian Club in a second-floor room of Ltichow's, and 
later the American Society of Composers, Authors and Pub- 
lishers was formed in another room nearby. 

Always Liichow's was a favorite of musicians, long after Four- 
teenth Street ceased to be the center of New York's musical life. 
Rubinstein, Paderewski, and Caruso were often there, and De 
Pachrnann, Richard Strauss, the De Reszkes, Ysaye, Zimbalist, 
Victor Herbert, and in later years, Toscanini. They listened with 
approval to the Vienna Art Quartette, an ageless ensemble whose 
personnel and number have changed with the years but which 
still plays, at the entrance of the New Room, everything from the 
lightest of classics to Wagner. Only jazz has never been heard in 
Liichow's. 

It was the temperamental musicians who created what may 
have been the only unpleasant incident in the history of the place. 
Huneker was sitting one night with August himself, Joseffy, De 
Pachmann, and others, when that tempestuous master of Chopin, 
De Pachmann, who admired no artist more than himself, called 
Josefiy an unprintable name, at which Huneker threw a seidel 
of beer in the pianist's face. Later in the evening, when the 
quarrel had been settled and the men were drinking again, Joseffy 
remarked reproachfully to Huneker, "And you, of all men, wast- 
ing such a lot of good beer!" 

William Steinway was the restaurant's patron saint. He and 
his noted family entertained the great musicians of the world 
there, both in the downstairs room and in the private rooms up- 
stairs, one of which is named for him. They were elegant affairs, 
not like the robust banquets given at Liichow's by Diamond Jim 
Brady, where twenty ladies of the chorus, engaged as dinner 
companions for the guests, might find $500 and a diamond sun- 
burst tucked under their napkins. 

Mr. Steinway ate regularly at noon upstairs with Ms senior 
executives, where they consumed August's famed forty-five-cent 



The Story of Luchow's 27 

luncheon. One day, on his way through the restaurant, he ob- 
served a very junior executive busily attacking his food, and 
coldly inquired, "How can you afford to eat here on your salary?" 
The interloper blushed, gulped, and never returned to Liichow's 
until he was in the proper financial bracket. 

As the distinguished head of an eminent firm, Mr. Steinway 
was not accustomed to being crossed, consequently he viewed 
with disapproval the day that August, endeavoring to keep up 
with rising costs, began the forty-five-cent luncheon with six 
oysters instead of the customary dozen. He announced that he 
would take his trade elsewhere, and for a few days he did not 
appear. August was not worried. Mr. Steinway came back within 
a week and made no further complaints. Six or a dozen, there 
was still no place like Liichow's. 

They came year after year to enjoy it, generation after genera- 
tion, the musicians, writers, artists, actors and actresses, the 
politicians and the financiers O. Henry, H. L. Mencken, 
George Jean Nathan, Lillian Russell, Anna Held, Al Smith, 
Dudley Field Malone, Theodore Dreiser, Charles F. Murphy and 
the sachems of Tammany Hall, Theodore Roosevelt (from 
Police Commissioner of New York to President) , Mack Sennett, 
who originated the name of his Keystone Comedies there one 
summer day at luncheon in 1912; and Gus Kahn, who penned, 
"Yes, Sir, That's My Baby" on a tablecloth. 

Every evening was a gala occasion, every Sunday night a 
festival. Victor Herbert brought back an eight-piece orchestra 
from Vienna, which he conducted for nearly four years. Brady's 
Parties were more than matched by the dinners of Jules Bache, 
Andrew Carnegie, and J. P. Morgan, which made culinary 
history. The three-hour lunch was commonplace, and the whole 
evening was devoted to dining. 

Liichow's became the American agent for Wurzburger beer in 
1885, and for Pilsner soon after. August was not the first man 
to serve these fine imported beers in America, but he was first 
to make them popular, a fact attested by the popular classic 



28 Luchow's German Cookbook 

Harry von Tilzer wrote to honor August and his restaurant, 
"Down Where the Wiirzburger Flows," whose lyrics by Vincent 
Bryan proclaimed: 

Rhine wine it is fine, 

But a big stein for mine, 

Down where the Wiirzburger flows!* 

The song traveled from Fourteenth Street to the beer gardens 
of Cincinnati, St. Louis, Chicago, Milwaukee, and far beyond, 
and attained such popularity that August declared in some be- 
wilderment: "I feel like a kind of beer Columbus!" 

But Liichow also was a connoisseur of wines, and from Europe 
he brought back a .cellar to be proud of, from Forster Jesuiten- 
garten, Rudesheimer Berg and Niersteiner; from Laubenheimer 
at $1.50 a quart, to Steinberger Trockenbeer at $25 a quart. 
August never permitted hard liquor to be served at the tables, 
although it could be had at the bar. Brandy after dinner was an 
exception. August liked it. 

Of the trenchermen who ate and drank at Luchow's, the 
Baron Ferdinand Sinzig, of the House of Steinway, established 
a record which still stands by downing thirty-six seidels of 
Wiirzburger without rising. Envious competitors observed that 
he was a native of Cologne and therefore presumably without 
kidneys. 

Sometimes the gaiety and good will of the place overflowed its 
boundaries. On March 11, 1902, when the younger brother of 
the last Kaiser, Prince Henry of Prussia, and his entourage had 
completed a sentimental tour of the country and were ready to 
sail, August Ltichow was reluctant to let him go without a 
gesture of farewell. The gesture consisted of chartering a river 
steamer, which took on an impressive cargo of beer and wine, 

* Copyright 1902 by Harry Von Tilzer Music Pub. Co. Copyright re- 
newed 1929 and assigned to Harry Von Tilzer Music Pub. Co. Used by 
permission of copyright proprietor* 



The Story of Liichow's 29 

bales of frankfurters, gallons of sauerkraut, a German band, and 
everybody who wanted to see the Prince off. In a fine glow of 
gastronomy and alcohol, the little ship clung to the stern of 
Henry's liner as she sailed eastward, its passengers shrieking bon 
voyages into her wake long after she had disappeared. No one 
who was present ever forgot the voyage, but no one could recall 
how it ended. 

Beer, wine, food, music, and atmosphere all these con- 
tributed to the success of Liichow's, but without August it would 
have had no meaning. The stories of this big, good-natured, 
handle-bar-mustachioed man are innumerable. One of the most 
characteristic concerns the day long ago when Liichow's had its 
only labor trouble, a brief strike of waiters. The walkout en- 
raged August, who had always treated his waiters as though they 
were his children. On the day of the strike he stalked about the 
restaurant, serving the customers himself and giving everyone 
a pancake loaded with caviar as one who saw it remarked, 
"a gesture of generosity born of rage." 

Often I imagine I see him now, moving amiably from table to 
table, greeting his friends, his laugh resounding in the rooms, 
eating and drinking with a zeal unequaled by any of his cus- 
tomers. No one enjoyed Liichow's more than August Liichow. 
Early in the morning, when the last guests had departed, he 
was sometimes so heavy with food and beer that four busboys 
had to assist him up the stairway to the rooms where he lived 
with his sister. 

August never married. His loves were Ms restaurant and his 
friends. 



Ill 

It is a tribute to Liichow's that it survived Prohibition. The 
drought had settled firmly by 1923, when August died, and Victor 
Eckstein, a nephew-in-law of Mr. Liichow, who succeeded him 



30 Luchow's German Cookbook 

as proprietor, had to rely upon food and tradition to carry him 

over the dry years. 

No one pretends that this was a happy period in the restau- 
rant's existence, but the faithful returned night after night for the 
excellent dinners, and possibly to mourn the Wiirzburger which 
flowed no more. The orchestra still played its nostalgic reper- 
toire, an island in a sea of jazz, and the atmosphere of dignified 
pleasure remained unchanged. 

During the last four or five years of Prohibition, Liichow's did 
not celebrate New Year's. For a time it had tried to keep up this 
tradition, which had always been such a gay time, but the cus- 
tomers who brought their flasks so desecrated the atmosphere 
that Mr. Eckstein concluded it would be wiser to wait for repeal. 
His reward was cafe license number one in New York City, 
given to Liichow's for its "excellent record/' when beer started 
flowing again. 

On that joyous May day in 1933, a thousand people came to 
dinner, and during the festivities consumed eight half barrels of 
Wiirzburger, which is equivalent to a thousand seidels. It was 
by no means a record. In the old days, Liichow's imported 
seventy thousand half barrels of German beer annually, equal 
to a consumption of twenty-four thousand seidels a day. 

It is this same Wiirzburger which remains as one of the un- 
changing delights of Liichow's. It is perhaps the most reliable 
accompaniment to the glories of the German cuisine which were 
and are our stock in trade. The details of that cuisine are 
abundantly reviewed in the pages that follow. It ranges from 
the reliables, like pig's knuckles and sauerkraut, the various 
kinds of schnitzel, and the things our chefs do with veal and 
potato dumplings, to goose and duck and game. We can provide 
such delicacies as turtle flippers la Maryland, or a staple like a 
beefsteak dinner, which at Liichow's begins with oysters Rocke- 
feller, goes on with onion soup, continues with a double lamb 
chop, a delectable prelude to the steak itself, and concludes with 
Swiss cheese. 



The Story of Luchow's 31 

The customers, like the menu, have changed very little in 
seventy years. Composers like Victor Herbert have been suc- 
ceeded by Irving Berlin and Richard Rodgers; the singers of the 
Golden Age by such opera stars of today as Helen Traubel; 
literary figures of the twenties like Theodore Dreiser by best-sell- 
ing authors of today Thomas B. Costain, Bob Considine, 
Kenneth Roberts, John P. Marquand, and a host of others. 

Always these celebrities have their favorite Liichow stories. 
Ted Husing, the noted sports announcer and disk jockey, has one 
that goes all the way back to his father's memories of Luchow's. 
Of course this memory was a very special one, not easily for- 
gotten. Husing, Sr., his son recalls, knew that if a young man 
invited a girl to Sunday dinner at Luchow's it was virtually a 
declaration of his intentions, consequently it was a serious day 
in his life when he arrived in a rented hack to take the girl he 
married to the restaurant that was even then famous, more than 
a half century ago. He waited until dessert to make his proposal, 
because that was the proper etiquette. Then, red-faced in his 
high, stiff collar, he blurted: "I hope you enjoyed the dinner, and 
I hope you don't mind my not kneeling, but if you've finished 
your pancake would you marry me?" 

Much more recently, a tour of our resplendent beer list was 
conducted one hot summer night by Charles Morton, the author 
of numerous civilized essays, who is also the Atlantic Monthly's 
perceptive associate editor. 

The evening began in Boston, where a few hours earlier Mr. 
Morton and a friend had decided to drive down to New York in 
a supercharged Ford, of which the editor was exceedingly fond. 
They departed about five in the afternoon, and an equal number 
of hours later found themselves bowling along the West Side 
Highway into a city that appeared deserted and from whose 
still streets the heat shimmered even at that hour. 

Luchow's was cool and wonderfully tranquil, a veritable oasis. 
At the time there were a dozen or so draught German beers on 
the card, and the Bostonians decided that the only fair thing 



32 Luchow's German Cookbook 

would be to tour right through the list. Mr. Morton's beer-drink- 
ing philosophy is that the only way to make a decent comparison 
of beer is to sample one brew while the full sense of another has 
just been attained. He was astonished at the delicate variations 
which were so unmistakably transmitted to the palate all differ- 
ent and all excellent. 

Morton and his friend made two complete trips through our 
list and were comfortably engaged on a third when they merci- 
fully permitted the bartender to go home. It was, says the 
Atlantic's man, the most satisfactory beer-tasting he ever 
attended. 

On occasion the Liichow cuisine has been known to impress 
even a Hollywood agent. One of this breed, who fancied himself 
as a gourmet of formidable standards, once took Jerome Weid- 
man, the best-selling novelist, for lunch at the restaurant. It was 
Weidman's first experience, and his host had spent some time 
describing its wonders. "But I insist on ordering for both of us," 
said the Hollywood Escoffier. 

The first dish came in a large tureen* The host ladled some into 
his plate, tasted it, and expressions of violent rapture soared into 
Liichow's serene noontime air. It was an extraordinary perform- 
ance, worthy of an Academy Award. He waved his hands, kissed 
his fingertips to the ceiling, gurgled happily, and went on sipping. 

At last he insisted on sending for the chef, who appeared and 
witnessed a reprise of the performance with some astonishment. 
The chef took the compliment gracefully and retired to the 
kitchen. Weidman's host insisted on walking him back, as a mark 
of gratitude. When they had gone, the writer ladled a bit of the 
tureen's contents into his own plate and took a tentative sip. It 
was good. Looking up, he saw a waiter standing at his elbow. 
Weidman didn't know whether he was expected to repeat his 
host's performance or not, but obviously the waiter was expect- 
ing something. 

He took another sip and asked, "What is it?" 

"Soup," the waiter remarked succinctly, and walked away. 



The Story of Luchow's 33 

Luchow's chefs have always been accustomed to dealing 
directly with the customers on occasion, but no one except 
Diamond Jim Brady would have thought to bring his own cook 
to the restaurant with a request that the chef give her his recipe 
for a favorite Brady dish. Obligingly he wrote it out and, handing 
it to the cook, explained, "This recipe does for fifty servings/' 

"Thank you," the cook responded, and added approvingly, 
"Then I won't have to change it for Mr. Brady." 

To return to modern instances, Sigmund Spaeth, widely 
known as the "Tune Detective," who writes, lectures, and broad- 
casts about music, enjoys another activity not so well publicized. 
He has the habit of eating off other people's plates. It is, he 
asserts, a real mark of affection on his part. 

One night at Luchow's, Dr. Spaeth was sitting beside the late 
Beatrice Kaufman, wife of the playwright George S. Kaufman. 
When the waiter brought her vanilla ice cream for dessert, Dr. 
Spaeth inquired indignantly, "How can you order vanilla when 
you know I like chocolate?" 

Mrs. Spaeth recalls another time at Luchow's when she was 
eating an artichoke, while her husband kept pace with her in 
pulling off the leaves. He interrupted himself to ask politely, "I'm 
not hurrying you, am I?" 

To me Luchow's is like home. The kitchen and its workings 
have had a compelling magic for me since I was a little boy. My 
first memory is being in our vast kitchen, observing the huge 
stove and even larger bake oven. Always the preparation and 
service of food at our homes in Sweden and on the Baltic, often 
for large hunting parties, fascinated me. Many times I used my 
piggy-bank savings to buy presents for our cooks, in gratitude for 
letting me help prepare roasts, sauces, pastries, and breads. 

Nevertheless, I was headed for a country squire's life until 
1932, when I saw Luchow's on my first visit to the United States. 
I fell in love with its atmosphere, tradition, and fine food it 
all reminded me of home. From that day, my chief desire was to 
own this famous old hostelry. 



34 Luchow's German Cookbook 

Back home again, I told my family that I desired to learn the 
restaurant business, and so, after completing my studies at the 
University of Stockholm, I attended a school of hotel manage- 
ment in Zurich. Returning to America in 1940, determined to 
make this country my home, I bought an old established restau- 
rant in Washington, D.C. It was successful, but still I longed for 
Luchow's. For five years I traveled frequently to New York, 
trying to persuade Mr. Eckstein to sell it to me. When I had 
convinced him that I would preserve the atmosphere and tradi- 
tions of the place, he consented. 

In buying Luchow's it was my object to bring back the splen- 
dor of the old days, as well as to preserve what remained of 
them. Especially I wanted to bring back the festivals the Veni- 
son Festival, the Goose Feast, the Bock Beer Festival, and the 
May Wine Festival, with beer served in the old beer mugs, 
replicas of the menus of 1900, German bands playing, and all 
the rest that memory recalls. One of my rewards has been the 
heartwarming appreciation of the patrons who have thanked 
me for preserving one of the few New York landmarks that 
survive. 

But a more personal satisfaction comes especially at Christmas 
time, when the largest indoor tree in the city towers twenty-five 
feet or more in the Cafe, aglow with five hundred electric candles 
and original nineteenth-century toys imported from Germany. 
The holy village is beneath, with the church bells chiming hymns 
and the Apostles revolving in the tower, all hand-carved by 
famous woodcarvers in Oberammergau, Bavaria, and the or- 
chestra plays carols while the diners sing. Some of these diners 
have been coming for a half century, and the waiters who serve 
them did so when they both were young. Nor has the Christmas 
menu changed, with its oxtail soup, boiled carp, roast goose with 
chestnut stuffing, creamed onions, pumpernickel, plum pudding 
with brandy sauce, and ice cream Santa Clauses. 

And when the lights are turned down at six o'clock on Christ- 
mas Eve, the orchestra plays "Silent Night," and the tree blazes 



The Story of Liichow's 35 

suddenly with its own special glory, the true reward comes to 
me. The old friends of August Liichow shake my hand, often 
with the tears on their cheeks, and they say to me, "If August 
should come in tonight, he would feel at home. Nothing has 
been changed." 

J. M. 



HOW WE 

COOK 

AT 



tuchoto's 



1 



APPETIZERS 



Old hands who have been eating at Liichow's for more 
years than they can readily remember have developed 
a capacity which does not shrink at the generosity of the res- 
taurant's appetizers. The uninitiated, however, thinking to nibble 
at a modest beginning to a hearty meal are likely to find them- 
selves overwhelmed by a small mountain of herring salad, a sub- 
stantial plate of head cheese covered with a special vinaigrette 
s.auce, or some other dish which dampens their enthusiasm for 
whatever follows. Be warned, then. Unless you are a trencher- 
man of proved capacity, deal humbly with the appetizers. 

What is true of the appetizers is true also of the entire menu. 
Mr. Seute's philosophy is that old customers should have the best 
and new ones the same, consequently everyone gets the ample 
portions which have filled and satisfied Liichow's patrons for 
seventy years. 

It takes twenty-eight cooks, masters from Austria and South 
Germany, some of them in Liichow service for thirty-five years, 
to produce the Liichow cuisine. None of these cooks would 
dream of modifying or changing the traditional European 
recipes which are as much a part of the restaurant as Mr. Seute 
himself. 



40 Luchow's German Cookbook 



PICKLED BEEF HEAD SALAD 

OCHSENMAUL SALAT 

10 pounds fresh boned beef heads 

1 fresh veal knuckle 

3 onions 

5 bay leaves 

1 dozen cloves 

1 bunch fresh thyme 

(Put bay leaves, cloves, and thyme in cheese- 
cloth, tie. Remove when cooked.) 

Marinate beef heads in water, salt, and saltpeter for one week. 

Place corned beef heads with fresh veal knuckle in water. Add 
remaining ingredients and boil about 4 hours. Remove veal 
bones. Press beef heads between two pans. Cool; cut in julienne. 
Marinate in olive oil, wine vinegar, chopped onions, freshly 
ground pepper. 

Serve chilled on crisp lettuce with finely cut chives. Serves 
8-10. 



PIG'S HEAD CHEESE VINAIGRETTE 

1 pig's head (without cheeks), boned 

1 cup salt 

l /2 cup sugar 

2 tablespoon saltpeter 

2 quarts water 

Bag of spice (4 or 5 peppercorns, bay leaf, sprig of 

thyme, teaspoon allspice) 
1 teaspoon paprika 
*/2 teaspoon cayenne 



How We Cook at Luchow's 41 

Scrub pig's head thoroughly. Rinse, drain, and cover with cold 
water to which 2 or 3 tablespoons salt have been added. Cover; 
let stand in refrigerator overnight. 

Drain, rinse, cover with fresh water, and let stand 1 hour. 
Drain again. Place pig's head in an enamel kettle; add 2 cup 
salt, the sugar, saltpeter, and 2 quarts water. Cover kettle and 
let stand 5 days in refrigerator. 

Remove pig's head from liquid; rinse. Place in a kettle; cover 
with fresh water; add spice bag. Bring to a boil, then lower heat 
and let cook slowly until meat drops from the bones. Remove 
spice bag; take kettle from heat. Remove all bones from meat; 
dice meat; add paprika and cayenne. Before meat is cold, press 
it into mold or pan 2 or 3 inches deep. Barely cover it with broth 
in which meat cooked. Let cool thoroughly. Slice and serve with 
special Liichow Vinaigrette Sauce. (See recipe.) Serves 8. 



CALF'S HEAD CHEESE VINAIGRETTE 

1 calfs head 

1 beef head 

2 gallons water 
2 pound salt 

1 tablespoon saltpeter 

1 bay leaf 

6 cloves 

6 peppercorns 

2 teaspoon dried sage 

1 cup wine vinegar 
4 cup oil 

2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper 

2 onions, chopped 

2 tablespoons minced chives 

Have butcher bone heads, remove eyes, brains, ears, snout, 



42 Luchow's German Cookbook 

and most of fat. Soak heads in cold water to extract blood. 
Wash, drain, and place in a large crock. Cover with 2 l /2 gallons 
water; add salt and saltpeter. Let stand in cold place 10 days. 

Drain, rinse, cover with cold water, and bring to boil. Lower 
heat; add bay leaf, cloves, peppercorns, and sage. Let simmer 
about 5 hours. Pour meat and stock into mold or pan; let cool. 
When stock has jelled firmly, cut in narrow strips. 

Mix vinegar, oil, pepper, and onions; pour over head cheese. 
Garnish with chives. Serves 6 or more. 



HERRING APPETIZER 

BERING SALAT 

4 salt herrings 
6 boiled potatoes 

3 apples 

4 sour dill pickles 

2 cooked beets 
Boiled veal knuckle 
1 green pepper 

2 onion 

Dash of black pepper 

1 teaspoon sugar 

2 teaspoon dry mustard 

2 cup olive oil 

2 cup wine vinegar 

1 cup stock or bouillon 

6 fresh lettuce leaves 

3 tablespoons capers 
3 hard-cooked eggs 

Rinse herrings; drain; cover with cold water and let soak over- 
night Drain; remove skin; cut fillets from bones. Dice fillets 
fine. 



How We Cook at LUchow's 43 

Peel and dice potatoes; peel, core, and dice apples; dice 
pickles, beets, meat, green pepper, and onion. Combine all with 
fish in a shallow dish. Sprinkle with pepper, sugar, and mustard. 
Pour oil, vinegar, and stock over all. Cover and let chill in 
refrigerator. 

Serve on crisp lettuce garnished with capers and hard-cooked 
egg quarters or slices. Serves 6. 



MARINATED HERRING 

24 herring fillets 
1 quart sour cream 

1 cup vinegar 

2 tablespoons olive oil 

6 medium-size onions, sliced 

3 sour apples, peeled and cut in thin strips 
1 ounce peppercorns 

1 ounce bay leaves 
2 lemon, sliced thin 

Wash fillets; drain; arrange in bowl. Mix all other ingredients; 
pour over herring. Cover and place in refrigerator. Let chill and 
marinate 24 hours. Serves 24. 



HERRINGS IN WINE SAUCE 

8 salt herrings 

1 cup prepared mustard 

1 cup olive oil 
Juice 1 lemon 

x /2 cup dry white wine 
Dash ground black pepper 

2 tablespoons sugar 
Crisp lettuce 



44 Luchow's German Cookbook 

Rinse herrings; drain; cover with cold water and let soak over- 
night. Drain; remove skin; cut fillets from bones; discard skin 
and bones. Cut fillets in 2-inch lengths, or serving-size pieces. 

Combine all other ingredients and pour over herrings in a 
bowl. Cover bowl and let stand in refrigerator to chill and 
marinate. Serve with garnish of crisp lettuce. Serves 10 or more. 

Herrings in Mustard Sauce: Use 2 cup prepared mustard; 
omit wine; add 4 tablespoons wine vinegar. Combine and use 
with other ingredients as described. 



HERRING IN DILL SAUCE 

8 fresh herrings (6 to the pound) 

Salt 

1 cup prepared mustard 

1 cup olive oil 

4 tablespoons vinegar 

Juice 1 lemon 

1 cup coarsely chopped fresh dill 

l /2 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper 

2 /4 tablespoon white pepper 

l /2 tablespoon salt 

2 tablespoon whole allspice 

2 tablespoons sugar 

Clean herrings; remove skin and cut fillets from bones; discard 
bones. Rinse fillets; pat dry; sprinkle with salt. 

Combine mustard and oil and beat smoothly until mixture 
has the consistency of mayonnaise; add vinegar gradually, beat- 
ing well, then lemoa juice and remaining ingredients. If neces- 
sary, thin with a little water; or if vinegar is mild, thin mixture 
with additional vinegar. 

Place herring fillets in a deep platter or dish; pour mixture 
over them and let stand, covered, in refrigerator 3 or 4 days, or 



How We Cook at Luchow's 45 

until fish is well flavored with the sauce. Garnish with thinly 
sliced red onions and sprig of fresh dill. Serves 8 or more. 

This was the favorite appetizer of Frederick Augus- 
tus III, the last King of Saxony. Oscar Hojmann was 
his chef. August Luchow, on a trip to Germany, was 
entertained at the royal household. He liked the cook- 
ing so much that, with the King's consent, he per- 
suaded Hofmann to come to America with him and 
made him the chef at his restaurant. The Herring in 
Dill Sauce is one of the recipes he brought with him. 



LUCHOW'S SPECIAL APPETIZER 

DELIKATESSE KALTER AUFSCHNITT 

Sliced cold assorted wursts 

Sliced head cheese 

Fancy bolognas 

Cervelat 

Homemade liverwurst 

Dill pickles 

Olives 

Celery hearts 

Radishes 

Sardines 

Herring in Sour Cream 

Mayonnaise 

Mustard 

Vinaigrette Sauce 

An assortment of cold sausages or wursts Is served garnished 
with pickles, olives, sliced radishes, and celery hearts. If head 
cheese is in the assortment, one of Liichow's special vinaigrette 
sauces for head cheese (see recipes) is served with the condi- 
ments. 



46 Luchow's German Cookbook 

HOMEMADE CfflCKEN LIVER PATE 

l /2 pound onions, sliced 

1/2 cup goose or chicken jot 

2 cup chicken stock or bouillon 

1 pound fresh pork liver 

2 pounds chicken livers 

% pound jat salt pork cut in thin strips 

1 teaspoon salt 

2 teaspoon pepper 

3 cloves 

Vs teaspoon thyme 
1 bay leaf, crumbled 
3 eggs, beaten 
1 cup heavy cream 

1 cup sherry wine 

2 tablespoons cornstarch 
2 tablespoons butter 

Cook onions in goose or chicken fat with, stock until they are 
transparent and tender. 

Wash liver; drain; lard with strips of salt pork, then slice liver 
into saucepan. Add onions, the fat they cooked in, salt, pepper, 
cloves, thyme, and bay leaf. Cover with cold water. Cook slowly 
(simmer) in covered pan until all blood is withdrawn and liver 
is very tender, about 2 hours. Drain. 

Grind liver and cooked onions fine. Mix with eggs, cream, 
and most of the wine. Moisten cornstarch smoothly with remain- 
ing wine and beat into the liver mixture. Beat and mix to a 
smooth paste. Pack into a crock or mold; pour 2 tablespoons 
melted butter over the top. Keep covered in the refrigerator. To 
serve, cut in slices. Serves 10 or more. 

Variation: Add 2 or 3 chopped anchovies or finely minced 
truffles to the pate for variations in flavor. 

Famous patrons of Luchow's, in the days when good dining 



How We Cook at Luchow's 47 

was more important than a waistline, ordered a superb wine 
with this pate. The recommended wine is a white, still wine, a 
Josephshofer Auslese, a select dry Moselle from the hills outside 
Trier. It is served expertly chilled. 



WCKLED MUSHROOMS 

This is a Luchow favorite as a first course, with 
other appetizers such as pate, head cheese, or smoked 
eel. 

To make Pickled Mushrooms in the traditional Ger- 
man way, buy fresh button mushrooms; use only firm t 
white ones. 

1 pound small button mushrooms 

1 tablespoon salt 

1 medium-size onion, chopped fine 

1 clove garlic 

1/4 cup chopped -fresh parsley 

2 bay leaves 

4 coarsely ground peppercorns 

1/2 teaspoon crumbled dried thyme or chopped 

fresh thyme 
2 cups dry white wine 
2 cups cider vinegar 
V2 cup olive oil 
Juice Vz lemon 

Wash mushrooms thoroughly in cold water containing 1 table- 
spoon salt. Drain. 

Mix all other ingredients; pour over mushrooms in an enam- 
eled saucepan. Bring to a boil, then let simmer 8 to 10 minutes 
or until tender. Let cool. Keep covered in refrigerator, seal while 
hot in sterile glass jars. Makes 6 large servings. Serves 8 or more 
small servings. 



2. 



SOUPS 



It was a wise gourmet who first propounded the old 
gastronomic axiom that a fine restaurant may best be 
judged by its soups. For the chef who is charged with preparing 
soup has assumed a grave responsibility. His creation must be 
weighty enough to satisfy but light enough not to diminish en- 
thusiasm for what follows. It must be a graceful salute to the 
diner's appetite, a subtle compliment to his taste. 

Here at Liichow's we treat the making of soup with the respect 
it deserves. Naturally, the ingredients must be of the finest. The 
beef, for example, which goes into Kraft Suppe, the Double 
Consomme with Beef and Vegetables, and similar concoctions, 
is purchased with as much care as we devote to steaks, fish, or 
game. The vegetables, too, must be of a quality as high as though 
they were to be offered by themselves. 

The small miracle of excellent soup is not accomplished with 
ingredients alone, however, since one must suppose that any 
good chef begins with the proper equipment. What distinguishes 
soup is the skill of mixture, the delicate and difficult addition of 
seasonings, until the chefs experienced palate tells him at last 
that the point of perfection has been reached. Then, and only 
then, does he pronounce it ready for Liichow's tables. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 49 



DOUBLE CONSOMME WITH BEEF AND VEGETABLES 

SUPPENTOPF 

5 pounds beef 
1 pound soup bones 
1V2 teaspoons salt 
4 quarts water 
2 small onion 
2 small carrot 
1 stalk celery 
1 small piece kohlrabi 
1 small piece parsley 
1 tomato, quartered 

Boiled vegetables such as 3 or 4 small potatoes, 
6 small carrots, and 3 or 4 small turnips 

Wipe meat with wet cloth. Rinse bones and place in kettle with 
salt, vegetables, and water. Bring slowly to a boil, then boil 1 
hour. Skim top. Add beef. Cover and let boil slowly 2Vi to 3 
hours. Lift meat out and place in deep tureen; keep meat warm. 
Strain stock, reheat. Pour over meat and cooked hot vegetables. 
Serves 6. 



LENTILS WITH BAUERNWURST 

LINSEN SUPPE 

2 cups dried lentils 

3 quarts bouillon or stock 

Ham knuckle, or V* pound salt pork (1 piece) 
3 small potatoes, diced 
1 tablespoon butter 
1 teaspoon flour 
1 bauernwurst 



50 Luchow's German Cookbook 

Wash lentils; drain. Cover with cold water and let soak 1 hour. 
Drain. Cover with cold water again and bring to a boil. Boil 10 
minutes. Drain again. Add bouillon or stock and ham knuckle 
or piece of salt pork. Bring to a boil. Lower heat and cook 
slowly 2 l /2 to 3 hours. 

Twenty minutes before lentils are done, add potatoes. Mix 
butter and flour. Stir this into the mixture. Continue to boil a 
few minutes. 

Simmer wurst 10 minutes in barely enough water to cover. 
Drain. Slice into tureen or soup plates. Pour hot lentils over 
sausage and serve. Serves 6. 



BEEF SOUP WITH MARROW 

KRAFT SUPPE 

1 pound short rib beef 

3 quarts water 

1 teaspoon salt 

2 teaspoon pepper 

1 leek 

1 stalk celery 

2 medium-size carrots, diced 
*/2 potato, diced 

16 small slices raw beef marrow 
4 cup minced chives 

Cover meat with water and bring to a boil. Skim the top, then 
drain the meat. Cover with 3 quarts water; add seasonings and 
all vegetables except potato. Bring to a boil. Lower heat; cover; 
simmer l l /2 hours. Add potato; boil 1 hour longer. Serve with 
2 slices raw beef marrow, garnished with a few chives, in each 
soup plate. Serves 8. 

Kraft Suppe was a favorite with Arthur Brisbane, 
for many years famous editor and columnist of the 
Hearst papers. He ate it from the large silver cups in 



How We Cook at Luchow's 51 

-which it was carried from the kitchen, rather than have 
it served into soup plates at the table. A man of strong 
ideas, he was adamant about eating his soup hot. 



BARLEY SOUP WITH GIBLETS 

GRAUPENSUPPE MIT HUHNERKLEIN 

1 cup pearl barley 
Boiling water 

1 tablespoon butter 

2 quarts beef or chicken bouillon 

2 cups broth in which giblets cooked 

V4 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

Chopped chicken giblets 

Salt and pepper 

2 tablespoons chopped parsley 

Wash barley; drain. Pour boiling water over it twice and drain. 
Heat butter; cook barley 2 or 3 minutes. Place barley, boullion, 
broth from giblets, and nutmeg in soup kettle. Boil slowly l l /2 
hours. Add giblets for last 20 minutes of cooking. If seasoning 
is needed, add salt and pepper. Add parsley before serving. 
Serves 6. 

COOKED GIBLETS: 

Chicken giblets 

1 cup white wine 

1 1 /2 cups chicken stock or bouillon 

1/2 teaspoon salt 

l /4 teaspoon pepper 

l /4 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

Wash giblets; drain; split and clean gizzard. Add wine, stock, 
and seasonings. Cover and cook slowly until all are tender, 20 
minutes or longer. Drain; chop giblets. Save liquid and use as 
described above. 



52 Liichow's German Cookbook 



VENISON SOUP 

ST. HUBERTUS OR WILDBRET SUPPE 

1 shoulder venison, boned 
Salt 

2 tablespoons butter 
2 tablespoons flour 
V4 cup sausage meat 

1 partridge, cleaned, dressed, and boned 

2 slices lean bacon 
4 carrots, chopped 
2 onions, chopped 
2 leeks, chopped 

2 sprigs parsley 
2 teaspoon thyme 

1 bay leaf 

2 cups water 

2 or 3 cups stock or bouillon 
Toast triangles 
Seasoning 

Cut venison in large pieces, season with salt, and dredge with 
flour. Brown meat in butter on all sides. Place venison in soup 
kettle or soup casserole. Add water to cover. Cook slowly for 
about 50 minutes. 

Rinse partridge inside and out; pat dry. Fill with sausage 
meat; skewer opening tightly with toothpicks. Cut bacon in 
small pieces and heat in frying pan. Cook partridge and vege- 
tables in fat until golden and tender. Add herbs and water. Cover 
pan; simmer 10 minutes. 

Add vegetables, partridge, and liquid in which they cooked to 
venison kettle. Cover and let boil gently 25 minutes. Skim top. 
Lower heat and let simmer 2 hours. 

When venison is done, place in a warmed soup tureen and 



How We Cook at Luchow's 53 

keep hot. Remove partridge and take sausage stuffing out of it 
Chop or grind partridge. Mix stuffing and partridge; season with 
salt and pepper if needed; spread on toast triangles to serve with 
soup. 

Strain soup. Add bouillon as needed to make 6 large serv- 
ings. Reheat. Pour over venison in tureen. Serves 6. 



CREAM OF CHICKEN SOUP 

SUPPE, HEIDELBERGER ART 

1 quart beef stock or bouillon 

2 cups water 

1 teaspoon sugar 

2 tablespoons rice or barley 

3_ to 4-pound chicken, cleaned and dressed 

1 tablespoon salt 

1V2 tablespoons butter or chicken fat 

1 tablespoon flour 

1 y* cups cream 

3 egg yolks, beaten 

Combine stock or bouillon and water in large kettle; add sugar 
and rice or barley. 

Rinse chicken; drain; pat dry. Rub lightly with salt. Place 
chicken in bouillon kettle. Cover; bring to a boil. Lower heat 
and cook slowly until chicken is tender, 1V2 to 2 hours. Remove 
chicken. 

Strain broth through colander, mashing rice or barley through 
with liquid. Melt butter or chicken fat in soup kettle; blend 
flour smoothly with it. Stir strained soup into fat and floux mix- 
ture. Let cook 30 minutes, stirring frequently. Add 1 cup cream; 
stir and bring to a boil, but do not let boil. Beat yolks with re- 
maining 1 A cup cream and stir into soup. Add salt and pepper 
if needed. 



54 Luchow's German Cookbook 

In each soup plate put a few even strips of breast of the 
hotted chicken. Pour hot soup over. Soup should be creamy, pale 
yellow, but not too thick. Serves 6. 

GOOSE GEBLET SOUP A LA OFFENBACH 

Goose heart, gizzard, wings, ieet, and neck 
3 tablespoons butter 

2 small onions, sliced 

IVi quarts stock or bouillon 
1 small carrot, sliced thin 
1 small turnip j sliced thin 

3 tablespoons uncooked rice 
1 teaspoon salt 

Dash of pepper 
1 small tomato 

3 tablespoons heavy cream 

4 truffles, chopped fine 
1 teaspoon lemon juice 

Wash and drain goose parts. Slit gizzard and cut away tough 
section. Saute all in soup kettle with butter and onions 5 min- 
utes. Add stock or bouillon, vegetables, rice, and seasoning. Boil 
30 minutes. Remove wings, feet, and neck with slotted spoon 
and discard. Wash, peel, and chop tomato; add to soup. Boil 5 
minutes. 

Mix cream, truffles, and lemon juice. Stir into soup and serve. 
Serves 4. 



LIVER BISCUITS 

Rich biscuit dough or puff pastry 

Melted butter 

Cooked chicken livers, chopped 



How We Cook at Lilchow's 55 

Roll dough V* inch thick; cut with small round cutter. Brush 
with butter; add 1 teaspoon livers. Cover with another round of 
dough; crimp edges together. Bake in hot oven (450 F.) until 
biscuits are light and browned, about 12 minutes. Serve with 
soup. 



FRESH EEL SOUP 

3-pound fresh eel, skinned and cleaned 
4 ounces dried mushrooms 
1 teaspoon salt 

1 pint sour cream 

VA- teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 
V4 teaspoon paprika 

2 teaspoons rye flour 

3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill 

Cut eel in 2-inch pieces. Wash mushrooms; drain; cover with 
cold water; let stand 24 hours. Drain water and pour it over eel; 
add additional cold water to cover, about IVz quarts of liquid 
all together; add salt. Cover. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and 
cook slowly until eel is tender, 25 to 35 minutes. Add mush- 
rooms and stir. Remove eel from soup. 

Add sour cream slowly to soup, stirring steadily. Add pepper 
and paprika. Mix flour with a spoonful of hot soup and stir into 
the kettle. Stir until soup boils. Add eel; bring to a boil again. 
Serve with chopped dill sprinkled on top. Serves 6. 

Two New York gourmets, Crosby Gaige and G. 
Selmer Fougner t both writers, both connoisseurs of the 
bottled sunshine from the Rhine Valley, often argued 
about the relative merits of our eels matelots, and eels 
vinaigrette. But they were in harmonious and rap- 
turous agreement on our Fresh Eel Soup. 
A dish easily made at home when your fish market advertises 
a catch of eels. 



56 Luchow's German Cookbook 



FRESH EEL SOUP, BERLIN STYLE 

AAL BERLINER 

2 -pound fresh eel, skinned and cleaned 
1 pint May Wine (see recipe) 

1 quart light beer 

2 slices pumpernickel, grated 
Sprig parsley 

1 bay leaf 

l /2 teaspoon thyme 

4 tablespoons butter 

Cut eel in small pieces. Place in a kettle with wine, beer, pum- 
pernickel, and herbs. (May wine may be bought in some wine 
stores.) Bring slowly to a boil, then simmer gently until fish is 
done, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove eel to a deep soup tureen. Add 
butter to soup in kettle. Stir until steaming hot. Pour over eel. 
Serves 4. 

We serve this with new boiled potatoes. 



CLAM CHOWDER 

MANHATTAN STYLE 

2 to 3 dozen fresh clams 
2 /2 cup boiling water 

2 or 3 stalks celery, diced 

3 medium-size onions, sliced 

4 green peppers, sliced thin 
4 slices salt pork, cubed 
2 /s cup flour 

3 pounds ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped 
1 teaspoon minced thyme 
1 bay leaf, crumbled 



How We Cook at LUchow's 57 

1 clove garlic, chopped 

6 medium-size potatoes, peeled and cubed 

2 quarts chicken broth 
1 teaspoon salt 

V4 teaspoon pepper 

3 tablespoons minced parsley 

Scrub clams; rinse and drain; put in large kettle with l /2 cup boil- 
ing water. Cover kettle; set it over heat until the steam opens the 
clams. Remove clams from shells; save all broth; chop clams. 

Saute celery, onions, and peppers with salt pork until the fat 
is melted and browning; sprinkle flour over this and mix 
smoothly. Add the broth from the clam kettle, tomatoes, thyme, 
bay leaf, garlic, and potatoes. Add chicken broth; stir. Cover 
and let simmer until vegetables are thoroughly cooked, 30 to 45 
minutes. Season; add clams and parsley; stir and serve. Makes 2 
quarts. Serves 6 to 8. 



LOBSTER BISQUE 

1 onion, sliced 

1 leek, chopped 

1 carrot, sliced 

1 stalk celery, chopped 

Vz teaspoon thyme 

1 bay leaf 

1 teaspoon salt 

Meat 2 small boiled lobsters 
2 cup cognac 

2 cups white wine or hot water 

1 cup cooked rice 

2 tablespoons butter 

3 tablespoons cream 
2 egg yolks, beaten 



58 Luchow's German Cookbook 

Heat 2 tablespoons butter in 2-quart kettle. Add onion, leek, car- 
rot, and celery and brown lightly 3 minutes. Add herbs, season- 
ing, and lobster meat. Stir lightly over heat 5 minutes. Add 1 A 
cup cognac and the wine or water. Cover. Cook over low heat 
15 minutes. Remove lobster meat; put through grinder, using 
finest knife, and return to kettle. Add rice; mix. Cover and boil 
5 minutes. Strain mixture, then cook over low heat about 45 
minutes, until thickened like cream. 

Remove from heat. Add butter, cream, egg yolks, and remain- 
ing cognac. Reheat, but do not boil. Serve at once. Serves 4 to 6. 



COLD FRUIT SOUPS 

KALTE SCHALE 

1 pound peaches 
1 pound plums 
1 quart water 
1 quart red wine 
1 pound sugar 

1 2-inch piece stick cinnamon 

2 teaspoons powdered arrowroot 
1 cup heavy cream, whipped 

Wash fruit; cut in half; remove seeds. Cover with water and wine 
in an enameled kettle. Add sugar and cinnamon. Cook until 
fruit is soft. Put through sieve. Reheat. Mix a little cold fruit 
mixture with arrowroot, stir into rest of juice, and boil 1 or 2 
minutes. Chill. Serve in large soup plates, garnish with whipped 
cream. Serves 6. 

Variations: Other fruits such as apples, cherries, raspberries, 
grapes, rhubarb, and currants may be used. Vary amount of 
sugar as needed; use more or less arrowroot, as needed to make 
smooth soup. 



FISH AND SHELLFISH 



A thousand things, all complimentary, are said about 
our fish specialties by Liichow's patrons, but if some- 
one asked me to sum up the reasons for their popularity, taking 
skilled cookery for granted, I would say, "It is because they are 
fresh." 

Every pound of prime fish that comes into our kitchens is 
fresh, not frozen, Salmon arrives by air express from Gaspe, 
Canada. Brook trout is flown in ice from Colorado, while red 
snapper and pompano are whisked up from Florida in the same 
manner. 

If the menu says "English sole," it means just that the very 
special kind of sole that comes only from the coast of the English 
Channel and, like the others, arrives here by air. 

Once a week I go to New Jersey and select the fresh-water 
eels to be smoked for our specialties. When we buy Nova Scotia 
salmon and sturgeon, only center cuts from young fish are 
chosen. At the Fulton Fish Market we pick out the fresh local 
fish, shad in season, and other favorites. 

Every lobster shipment is checked when it arrives to make 
certain they are all alive. Crabs arrive kicking from Maryland. 
Shrimp, oysters, mussels, and other shellfish come to our kitchen 
fresh every day from the fishing beds. 



60 Liichow's German Cookbook 



FILLETS OF SEA BASS SAUTEED 
WITH WHITE GRAPES 

4 small (1Y2 pounds each) sea bass or 

4 pounds sea bass fillets 

1 teaspoon salt 

2 teaspoon pepper 

3 tablespoons butter 

1 cup -fresh or canned seedless grapes 

Juice 1 lemon 

Wash, scale, and clean fish. Remove heads, tails, and skin. Cut 
fillets from bones. Season fillets with salt and pepper. Cook in 2 
tablespoons butter until tender and delicately golden, about 5 to 
8 minutes. 

If fresh grapes are used, wash, drain, and peel them. Drain 
canned grapes. Saute grapes in remaining butter with lemon 
juice 2 or 3 minutes, until hot and steaming. Pour over fish. 
Serves 4 or more. 



BOILED LIVE CARP, HORSERADISH SAUCE 

6-pound carp 
1V2 teaspoons salt 

1 cup white wine 

2 cups water 

2 onion, minced 

% pound mushrooms, chopped 

V4 teaspoon pepper 

2 tablespoons chopped parsley 

3 tablespoons grated fresh horseradish 

1 cup sour cream or heavy sweet cream 

Our chef says, "Buy live carp." Have it cleaned and cut in serv- 



How We Cook at Luchow's 61 

ing-size pieces. Rinse; pat dry. Rub salt lightly on each piece. 
Place in saucepan. Add wine, water, onion, mushrooms, pepper, 
and parsley. Bring to a boil. Cover; lower heat and cook gently 
20 minutes, or until fish flakes when tested with a fork. Drain. 
Place on warmed serving dish. Cook pan juices rapidly to reduce 
them. Pour over fish. 

Mix horseradish and cream; serve with fish. Serves 6. 



COLD GASPE SALMON 

SALM VOM GASPE 

At Luchow's this delicacy is prepared with a whole 
fresh salmon especially imported from the Gaspe 
Peninsula. 

2- to 3-pound fresh Gaspe salmon 

1 bay leaf 

3 cloves 

4 tablespoons vinegar 
Juice 1 lemon 

4 peppercorns 

l 2 /2 teaspoons salt 

l l /2 tablespoons plain granulated gelatin 

2 egg whites 

Cooked peas, asparagus, or string beans 

Parsley 

Lemon, sliced 

Wash, scale, and clean salmon. Place in shallow pan. Add 3% 
cups cold water, or enough to cover. Add bay leaf, cloves, vine- 
gar, lemon juice, peppercorns, and salt. Bring to a boil, then 
lower heat and let simmer 15 minutes, or until fish is done. Care- 
fully remove fish to a platter or mold. 

To 3 cups of the hot stock in which the fish cooked, add the 
gelatin. Stir to dissolve. Beat egg whites lightly and stir into 



62 Luchow's German Cookbook 

stock. Cook slowly just to boiling, then let stand in warm place 
(double boiler over hot water) 30 minutes, or until broth clears 
and thickens slightly. Strain through cheesecloth. Pour over fish. 
Chill. Decorate with chilled cooked vegetables, parsley, and 
lemon slices. Serves 4 to 6. 

NOTE: This can be done with shad; a delicious and very satis- 
factory variation because the shad bones are dissolved by the 
marinade. 



SMOKED SALMON IN COCOTTE 

GERAUCHERTER LACKS MIT TRUFFELN 

This may be served as a hot hors d*oeuvre or, when 
baked in a larger casserole, as a luncheon dish. French 
cooks line the cocotte or casserole with short-crust 
pastry. The Luchow dish omits the pastry. It is one of 
the gourmet specialties of the huge menu card which 
has confronted the famous and the hungry in this 
Fourteenth Street restaurant for seventy years. 

4 thin slices smoked salmon cut in 1-inch pieces 

1 or 2 truffles, chopped 

4 whole eggs and 2 yolks, beaten 

1 1 /2 cups light cream 

l l /2 cups milk 

Dash of pepper 

Dash of grated nutmeg 

Divide pieces of salmon in 4 individual casseroles. Sprinkle with 
truffles. 

Mix eggs, cream, milk, and seasonings and pour over salmon 
and truffles, almost filling casseroles. Set them carefully in a 
shallow pan containing a little hot water. Place in a moderate 
oven (325 F.) and bake 30 to 40 minutes. Serve hot. Serves 4, 




PLANKED BONED SHAD 

4 fillets boned shad, about 2 pound each 

1 teaspoon salt 

1/4 teaspoon pepper 

Olive oil 

8 slices bacon 

4 tablespoons butter, melted and mixed with 

1 tablespoon lemon juice 

4 planks for individual service, or 1 large plank 
4 cups hot mashed potatoes 
4 hot broiled tomato halves 

2 or 3 cups hot cooked string beans 
16 hot cooked asparagus tips 

4 slices lemon 

Season fillets with salt and pepper. Brush lightly with oil. Broil 



64 Luchow's German Cookbook 

under moderate heat until golden on both sides, 15 to 20 min<. 

utes. 

Broil bacon until crisp. 

Warm planks and place a cooked fillet on each; pour a little 
of the mixed lemon butter over, then top with 2 pieces cooked 
bacon. Use pastry tube or spoon and make a border of hot 
mashed potatoes around the plank. Place broiled tomato, string 
beans, and asparagus tips attractively around the fish. Garnish 
with lemon slice. Serve at once. Or omit lemon, set plank under 
broiler heat until potatoes are delicately brown. Remove plank, 
add lemon, and serve. Serves 4. 



STUFFED SHAB ROE 

2 good-size shad roes 

2 hard-cooked eggs, chopped fine 

V* teaspoon grated nutmeg 

2 or 3 tablespoons Bechamel Sauce (see recipe) 

1 tablespoon chives 

2 teaspoon salt 

s teaspoon pepper 

1 cup boiling broth or bouillon 

V4 cup VeloutS Sauce (see recipe) 

2 tablespoons Hollandaise Sauce (see recipe) 
2 tablespoons whipped cream 

Rinse roes; pat dry. Place each on a square of waxed paper. 
Make a cut lengthwise in the roe to form a pocket for staffing. 
Mix the chopped eggs, nutmeg, Bechamel Sauce, chives, salt, 
and pepper. Stuff the roes with mixture. Fold the waxed paper 
over each; close tightly at both ends by turning it under twice. 
Place in boiling broth, cover, and boil 10 minutes. Remove roes 
from paper to a wanned serving dish. Cover with sauce made 
by mixing the Velout6, Hollandaise, and whipped cream. Place 
under broiler heat a few seconds until lightly brown. Serves 2, 



How We Cook at Luchow's 65 

With this you should sip Schloss Johannisberger Cabinet, the 
aristocrat of Rhine wines, from the estate of Prince Metternich. 



FILLET OF SOLE A LA FRIESLANB 

4 filets sole 

1 shallot, chopped 

1 teaspoon salt 

l /4 teaspoon -white pepper 

l /4 cup -white wine 

4 cup fish stock or bouillon 

2 tablespoons butter 
2 tablespoons flour 

1 egg yolk 

V4 cup cream 

! /4 cup Lobster Butter 

Rich puff Pastry Crescents 

Place fish and shallot in saucepan; season with salt and pepper; 
add wine and stock or bouillon. Cook uncovered 10 to 12 min- 
utes, or until fish is tender and liquid is reduced to about hah 5 
the original amount. Remove fish to shallow baking dish and 
keep it warm. Beat butter and flour together; stir into pan liquid 
and cook until slightly thickened. Beat egg and cream together; 
stir into sauce. Heat a moment, but do not boil. 

Spread Lobster Butter over fish; pour hot sauce over. Garnish 
with crisp Pastry Crescents and set under broiler 2 or 3 minutes. 
Serves 4. 

LOBSTER BUTTER: 

X A cup butter 

1 teaspoon lobster paste (bought) 

*A teaspoon onion juice 

1/4 teaspoon lemon juice 



66 Luchow's German Cookbook 

Let butter soften at room temperature. Beat other ingredients 
into it until smooth and evenly mixed. Makes about 1 A cup. 

Pastry Crescents: See Pastry for Pies recipe. Roll pastry about 
*/4 inch thick. Cut with small fancy crescent cutter. Place cres- 
cents on baking sheet; brush lightly with butter. Bake in hot oven 
(450 F.) 11 to 15 minutes, until puffed and browned. Use as 
described. 



ENGLISH SOLE, PROVENCALS 

4 small English sole 

1 teaspoon salt 

3/4 teaspoon pepper 
Juice 1 lemon 
l /4 cup flour 

2 tablespoons olive oil 
1 shallot, chopped 

3 tablespoons butter 

1 garlic clove j chopped fine 

2 large tomatoes 

Ask fish dealer to clean the sole for cooking whole. If you have 
to do it yourself, cut off head diagonally and trim end of tail. 
Turn back skin either at head or tail and strip it off with a sharp 
pull. Scrape surface of fish. Trim fins; clean inside. Rinse, drain, 
and pat dry. 

Season with salt and pepper; sprinkle with lemon juice; dip 
lightly in flour. Heat olive oil in skillet and cook fish until golden 
brown on both sides and done, about 10 minutes. Remove to 
hot platter and keep hot. 

Cook shallot, butter, and garlic 2 minutes. Skin tomatoes, 
chop, drain off juice, and add pulp to garlic mixture. Stir and 
cook 5 minutes. Pour over fish. Serves 4. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 67 



SHELLFISH 



DEVILED CRABS 



6 crab shells or ramekins 

1 2 cups fresh crab meat 
5 tablespoons butter 
l l /2 tablespoons flour 

% cup cream 

2 eggs, beaten 
l /2 teaspoon salt 

1V2 teaspoons prepared mustard 
2 teaspoon paprika 
Ys teaspoon cayenne 

Wash crab shells. Flake crab meat; remove any cartilage. Melt 
1 tablespoon butter in a saucepan. Add flour and cream; boil 
until thick. Remove from heat. Add eggs, salt, mustard, paprika, 
and cayenne. Stir. Add crab meat. Mix well. Pack into shells or 
ramekins. Melt remaining butter and pour over filled shells. 
Brown quickly under broiler or in hot oven (400 F.) Serves 6. 



Leonard Lyons told this story about opera singer 
and baseball fan, Helen TraubeL Miss Traubel dined 
at Luchow's one evening and ordered a large lobster. 
"How large?" 1 the waiter asked. Miss Traubel indicated 
the lobsters being served at the next table and said: 
"The lobster I want eats those." So this recipe might 
be just right for her, with maybe a little left over for 
Lyons. 



68 Luchow's German Cookbook 



CURRY OF LOBSTER A LTNDEENNE 

1 tablespoon minced onion 
1 tablespoon minced carrot 
1 stalk celery, minced fine 
l /4 teaspoon mace 
V4 teaspoon thyme 

1 bay leaf, crumbled 

2 tablespoons minced parsley 
2 tablespoons butter 

2 bouillon cubes, moistened in 

2 tablespoons hot water 
1 tablespoon flour 

1 2 teaspoons curry powder 

1 teaspoon paprika 

1 cup lobster stock (water in which lobsters boiled) 

l /4 cup cream 

Meat from 2 -freshly boiled lobsters 

3 cups hot boiled rice 
Indian condiments 

Cook onion, carrot, celery, herbs, and parsley in heated butter 
until onion is transparent and browning. Stir in bouillon cubes, 
then flour. Mix smoothly. Stir in curry powder and paprika. Add 
stock and continue cooking and stirring until boiling. Add 
cream; stir until thoroughly blended, but do not let cream boil. 
Remove from heat. 

Cut lobster meat in generous pieces. Add to sauce. 

Serve with hot boiled rice and Indian condiments such as 
Major Grey's chutney, grated fresh coconut, ground nuts, 
smoked dried fish (Bombay duck), grated green pepper, 
chopped onions and chives. Serves 4. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 69 

STUFFED LOBSTER 1 LA MITCHELL 

As a result of my childhood training in Sweden and 
later with many famous chefs, I have what has been 
called a superb collection of gourmet dishes. This is 
one of my favorite lobster recipes. 
2 gallons water 
1 onion 
1 carrot 

1 stalk celery f sliced 
l /2 pound dill 

2 /2 pound parsley, chopped 

2 bay leaves 
2 cloves 

1 teaspoon caraway seeds 

2 teaspoons salt 
Few peppercorns 

4 medium-sized live lobsters 
2 cup olive oil 
l /2 cup tarragon vinegar 
1 teaspoon English mustard 
Vz pound cut chives 
Juice of 2 lemons 

1 teaspoon salt 

4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 
V2 cup olive-oil mayonnaise 

2 tablespoons fresh Beluga caviar 

3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine 

Add vegetables, spices, and seasoning to water. Bring to boil 
and add the live lobsters. Cook for about 20 minutes. Drain and 
cool. Cut lobsters in half lengthwise. Remove meat from body 
and claws. Dice the lobster meat. Rinse the shells. 

Blend oil, vinegar, mustard, chives, lemon juice. Add salt and 
pepper. Pour over lobster meat. Put hi refrigerator one hour. FiJl 
shells; top with olive-oil mayonnaise. Decorate with caviar and 
chopped eggs. Serve with cucumber salad. Serves 4. 



70 Luchow's German Cookbook 



LOBSTER NEWBURGH 

6 lobsters, about 2 pounds each 

Boiling water 

1 cup butter 

1 teaspoon salt 

1 teaspoon paprika 

1 cup sherry 

2 2 /2 cups heavy cream 

l /2 cup light Cream Sauce {see recipe) 

6 egg yolks, beaten 

Extra sherry 

Plunge lobsters into kettle of boiling water. Cover; cook until 
shells are bright red, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool. Remove shells 
and cut meat in 1-inch pieces. 

"Saute lobster pieces in skillet with butter. Season with salt and 
paprika. Add sherry and simmer slowly until wine is absorbed. 
Add 2 cups cream and the Cream Sauce; stir and let simmer 
about l /2 minute. Beat egg yolks with remaining Vi cup cream 
and stir into pan. Pour into chafing dish and heat. Add 4 table- 
spoons sherry wine to sauce. Stir 1 minute and serve. Serves 
6 to 8. 



LOBSTER THERMIDOR 

2 2-pound live lobsters 

Boiling water 

4 tablespoons butter 

1 small onion or shallot, diced 

6 mushroom caps, diced 

2 /2 teaspoon salt 

l /4 teaspoon paprika 



How We Cook at Luchow's 71 

V4 cup sherry 

l /2 cup heavy cream 

1/4 teaspoon English mustard 

*/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 

V4 cup Cream Sauce (see recipe) 

1 egg yolk, beaten 

2 tablespoons whipped cream 

Plunge lobsters into boiling water and boil 20 minutes. Drain. 
Cut off heads and claws. Cut lobster open lengthwise on under- 
side. Reserve back half of shells. Remove meat from shell and 
claws. 

Cut meat in small pieces. Saut6 in butter with onion or shallot 
and mushrooms. Season with salt and paprika. Cook 6 minutes. 
Add sherry and cream. Simmer until thickened and reduced. Mix 
mustard and Worcestershire and stir into lobster. The mixture 
should be very thick. 

Fill shells. Beat egg yolk into Cream Sauce and spoon over 
lobsters. Top with whipped cream. Brown under broiler until 
golden. Serves 2. 



OYSTERS CASINO A LA LUCHOW 

24 large oysters in the shell 

1 cup butter 
Small clove garlic 

2 tablespoons minced chives 
1 green pepper, minced fine 

1 canned pimiento, minced fine 

1 teaspoon salt 

Dash of pepper 

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 

Juice 16 lemon 

8 slices bacon 



72 Liichow's German Cookbook 

Scrub oysters; open and remove from shells; drain. Return oys- 
ters to largest half of shells. Arrange in shallow baking pans. 

Soften butter. Mash garlic and add. Add rest of ingredients 
except bacon and mix smoothly. Spread spoonful on each oyster. 
Cut each piece of bacon in 3 pieces and garnish each oyster with 
*/3 slice. Set pan under moderate broiler heat until bacon cooks 
lightly. Then set pan in a hot oven (425 R) 5 minutes. Serves 
4 to 6. 



CfflCKEN FRIED SHRIMPS WITH TARTARE SAUCE 

2 pounds fresh raw shrimps 
1 cup sifted flour 

1 tablespoon baking powder 

2 tablespoons sugar 
1/2 teaspoon salt 

2 eggs, beaten 

2 tablespoons melted butter 

1 cup milk 

Fat or oil for deep frying 

Tartare Sauce (see recipe) 

Wash shrimps; drain. To clean, clip shell with kitchen scissors, 
following black line. Remove shell, leaving last section and tail 
intact. Cut slit down center of back and remove black line (in- 
testine). Rinse, drain, and dry thoroughly. 

To make batter, sift dry ingredients; stir in eggs, butter, and 
milk. Beat lightly. 

Dip shrimps in batter 1 at a time, holding by tail. Fry in deep 
hot fat (375 F.) until golden brown. Drain on thick paper 
toweling. Serve hot with Tartare Sauce. Serves 6. 

NOTE: Use this same batter for fried chicken, oysters, fish. 



POULTRY AND GAME BIRDS 



It takes a good part of the United States to supply 
Liichow's with ducks, chickens, and turkeys, because, 
as everyone knows, the best fowl depend on the seasons as well 
as the seasonings. 

Consider the humble chicken, for example. The best of them 
come from the farms about Schroon Lake in the Adirondacks. 
They are wire-mesh-raised broilers, hens, and capons, and their 
great virtue is a predominance of white meat, sweet and tender s 
in their well-fleshed bodies. 

No one disputes the pre-eminence of the ducklings raised on 
the farms of Long Island. We buy ducks weighing about five and 
a half pounds each when the weight is not due to excess fat at 
the expense of meat. 

Our guinea hens, no matter where their home may be, are 
selected by the color of the meat. If it looks bluish, the hen is 
usually tough. 

Wisconsin produces the select geese we buy. They must be 
stall-fed, a special process well known to the German-Scandi- 
navian population which inhabits that rich state. The liver from 
these geese, for which there is no- substitute, is used for our 
homemade pate de foie gras. 



74 LUchow's German Cookbook 

We buy game birds from several different sections of the 
country, depending on which produces the best supply in a given 
season. Domestic partridge is better than the English variety and 
is much more in demand by American gourmets. 



ROAST STUFFED PHILADELPHIA CAPON 

1 plump 3- to 4-pound capon> cleaned and dressed 

Salt 

Heart, liver > gizzard 

1 cup bread crumbs 
4 pound butter 

2 eggs, beaten 

1 tablespoon minced parsley 

Pepper to taste 

4 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

1 tablespoon lemon juice 
2 cup chopped mushrooms 

3 truffles, chopped 

2 slices bacon 

2 tablespoon flour 
2 cup milk 
1 cup hot water 

Rinse capon inside and out and pat dry. Rub salt inside and out. 

Chop heart, liver, and gizzard (remove tough membrane of 
gizzard). Mix with crumbs, 1 tablespoon butter, eggs, parsley, 
pepper, nutmeg, lemon juice, mushrooms, and truffles. Stuff 
capon; close opening with skewers or sew up. 

Place stuffed capon in baking pan with bacon strips across 
breast. Dab with pieces of butter. Bake uncovered in moderate 
oven (375 F.) 25 minutes. Lower heat to 325 F. and continue 
roasting 45 minutes, or until capon is done. 

Baste often with juices in pan and additional melted butter. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 75 

Add a little hot water to fat in pan so it does not get too brown. 
When chicken is done, remove to warmed platter. 

To make gravy, stir flour into fat in roasting pan. Add milk, 
stirring smoothly. Stir in hot water gradually. Let boil until 
smooth. Serve with capon. Serves 4 to 6. 



BREAST OF CAPON, MAI ROSE 

2 small slices Virginia ham 

2 capon breasts 
l /2 teaspoon salt 
Dash of pepper 

3 tablespoons flour 

1 teaspoon chopped shallots 

3 fresh mushroom caps 

Vs cup May Wine (see recipe) 

*/2 cup light cream 

1 egg yolk, beaten 

1 ripe tomato t peeled 

Cook ham in a hot skillet until tender and golden. Remove ham 
and keep it warm. Rinse chicken; pat dry. Season with salt and 
pepper. Dip lightly in flour. Saute in ham fat until golden and 
tender, about 40 minutes. 

Place ham on warmed serving dishes. Arrange breast of 
chicken on each piece. 

Add shallots, mushrooms, and 1 teaspoon flour to the frying 
pan. Stir and brown lightly. Add May Wine and cream, alter- 
nately. Stir slowly after each addition. Add beaten yolk. 
Squeeze juice from tomato; chop and add. Stir and cook 1 min- 
ute. Pour over chicken and ham and serve. Serves 2. 



76 Luchow's German Cookbook 



CHICKEN FRICASSEE, BERLINER ART 

This elaborate and delicious chicken fricassee, in the 
style of luxurious home dining of Berlin pre-war days, 
is one of our specialties. 

2 2 2 -pound chickens, cleaned and disjointed 

4 tablespoons butter 

4 peppercorns 

1 A teaspoon thyme 

2 or 3 bay leaves 

1 leek, sliced fine 

1 small onion, sliced thin 

1 carrot, sliced thin 

12 teaspoons salt 

1 cup dry white wine 

2 cups soup stock or bouillon 
1 pint heavy cream 

1 teaspoon flour 

6 or 8 small pieces cooked lobster (lobster claw, says 

the chef) 

2 cup chopped cooked tripe 
*/2 cup sliced cooked mushrooms 
4 to 6 cups hot cooked rice 

Rinse chickens; drain. Remove bones. Melt butter in heavy iron 
pot or Dutch oven and saute chickens. Add peppercorns, thyme, 
bay leaves, leek, onion, carrot, and salt. Cook chicken until 
golden but not browned. Add wine and stock. Cover pan. Bring 
to a boil, then cook over lowered heat 20 minutes, or until 
tender. 

Remove chicken to a warm serving dish. Stir cream into pan 
and cook gently. Mix flour with a little of the hot gravy, then 
stir it into kettle, cooking and stirring until mixture is the con- 



How We Cook at Luchow's 77 

sistency of a fricassee or smooth gravy. Strain sauce. Add lob- 
ster, tripe, and mushrooms. Reheat a moment and pour over 
chicken. Serve with hot rice. Serves 6 or more. 



POACHED CHICKEN, KONIG'S GROTTE 

2 medium-size (2V2- to 3-pound) chickens, disjointed 

4 tablespoons butter 

1 stalk celery, chopped 

1 small onion, sliced 

1 carrot, sliced thin 

1 bay leaf 

l /4 teaspoon thyme 

1 cup dry white wine 

1 pint light cream 

2 cups stock or chicken bouillon 
2 or 3 tablespoons flour 

1 teaspoon salt 
Dash of pepper 

Garnishes: sliced raw carrot, chopped green pepper, 
aspic cubes 

Rinse chickens; pat dry. Saute in butter until lightly browned, 
20 to 25 minutes. Place in kettle with celery, onion, carrot, bay 
leaf, and thyme. Pour wine, cream, and stock over all. Cover, 
bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer 20 minutes, or until 
meat is thoroughly done. 

Remove chicken. Cut meat from bones and place in four in* 
dividual serving dishes. 

Mix flour smoothly with a few tablespoons of the broth in 
which the chicken cooked, then stir the mixture into the remain-* 
ing broth. Cook and stir until thickened to the consistency of a 
fricassee or cream gravy. Season. Strain this gravy over chicken. 
Let cool. When cold, garnish with sliced raw carrot, chopped 
pepper, and aspic cubes. Serves 4. 



78 Luchow's German Cookbook 

FREED CHICKEN A LA VIENNOISE 

2V2- to 3-pound young chicken, disjointed 

1 teaspoon salt 

VA teaspoon pepper 

Vz teaspoon paprika 

3 /4 cup flour 

1 egg, beaten with 

2 tablespoons water 

1 cup fine cracker crumbs 
6 tablespoons butter 

Rinse chicken; pat dry. Season with salt, pepper, and paprika. 
Roll each piece lightly in flour, then dip in the egg and water 
mixture and roll in cracker crumbs. Saute in butter very slowly, 
about 35 minutes, or until golden on all sides and tender. Serve 
with browned butter from the skillet. Serves 2 to 4. 



CfflCKEN PAPRIKA 

PAPRIKA HUHN 

2 young chickens, about 2 2 pounds each 
2 /2 tablespoon salt 
*/4 pound butter 

1 large onion, diced 

2 teaspoons paprika 
Vi tablespoon flour 

2 cups stock or bouillon 
1 tablespoon heavy cream 

1 cup thick sour cream 

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill 

Rinse chickens; pat dry. Cut in serving pieces; season with salt 
Place in covered bowl in refrigerator 30 minutes. 



How We Cook at LUchow's 79 

Heat butter in deep pot or Dutch oven until light brown. Add 
onion and cook until transparent; stir in paprika. Add chicken. 
Cook slowly until pieces are golden, then cover and cook 30 
minutes longer, or until tender. Sprinkle with flour. Add stock 
or bouillon and heavy cream; stir. Cover and let boil 15 minutes. 
Remove chicken to warmed serving dish. Stir sour cream into 
pot; stir and boil 5 minutes. Pour over chicken. Sprinkle with 
dill. Serves 4 to 6. 



WHOLE CHICKEN IN CASSEROLE 
WITH VEGETABLES AND NOODLES 

HUHN IM TOPF, GEMUSE, NUDELN 

2V2 -pound chicken, cleaned and drawn 

Chicken feet 

2 extra chicken wings 

2 extra chicken necks 

4 carrots 

4 small turnips 

2 leeks 

2 stalks celery 

1 teaspoon salt 

Few grains pepper 

1 bay leaf 

l /2 pound noodles 

Marrow Balls (or Dumplings) 

Rinse chicken, chicken feet, wings, and necks; drain. Put in large 
pot; cover with water. 

Wash vegetables; scrape carrots; peel turnips and cut in 
quarters. Cut leeks and celery in 1-inch lengths. Add vegetables 
to pot. Add salt, pepper, and bay leaf. Cover. Bring to a boil, 
then lower heat a little and cook 30 to 45 minutes. Remove 
chicken and vegetables to a casserole; keep hot. 

Strain broth. Cook noodles in broth; drain. Save broth. Add 



SO Luchow's German Cookbook 

noodles to casserole and keep hot. Cook Marrow Balls in re- 
maining broth. Place on chicken and noodles. Serves 4. 

MARROW BALLS (OR DUMPLINGS): 

4 tablespoons fresh marrow, strained through sieve 

2 tablespoons butter 

3 eggs, beaten 
3/2 teaspoon salt 
Dash of pepper 

1 A teaspoon grated nutmeg 
2 tablespoons minced parsley 
1 cup fine cracker crumbs 
1/2 teaspoon baking powder 

Combine all ingredients and beat until smooth, using enough 
cracker crumbs to hold the mixture together. Form small marble- 
size balls. Cook in boiling broth 10 to 15 minutes. Lift out on 
slotted spoon. Serves 4 or more. 



CHAFING DISH OF CHICKEN A LA KING 

3V2- to 4-pound fowl, boiled, or 
2 large chicken breasts, boiled 
4 mushroom caps 

1 green pepper 

2 tablespoons butter 
*/2 cup sherry 

2 l /2 cups light cream 

2 egg yolks 

l /2 tablespoon diced pimiento 

2 teaspoon salt 

4 slices buttered toast 

Cut chicken meat in small pieces. Dice mushrooms and green 
pepper and cook in butter in chafing dish until pepper is tender. 
Add V* cup sherry; stir and let boil. Add 2 cups cream; stir; let 



How We Cook at Luchow's 81 

simmer 2 or 3 minutes, until cream thickens. Add chicken; bring 
to a boil and boil 1 or 2 minutes. 

Mix remaining V4 cup cream with egg yolks. Add to mixture 
slowly, stirring gently. Add pimiento and seasoning. Just before 
serving, stir remaining sherry into mixture. Cut toast in halves, 
diagonally. Serve creamed chicken on toast. Serves 4. 

CHICKEN PAPRIKA WITH EGG BARLEY 

This is the favorite Lilchow dish of George Mac- 
Manus, whose cartoons have made the world a more 
amusing place. 

First, our chef explains, "egg barley" is the name of 
a miniature noodle, a tiny fleck of a noodle, about the 
size of a grain of barley. If you can't find this type of 
noodle at your grocer's you can cut homemade noodles 
very fine and get something of the same effect in this 
delicious German-Austrian dish. 

2 medium-size onions, chopped 
4 slices bacon 

2 2 te -pound chickens, disjointed 
1 teaspoon flour 

1 clove garlic 

1Y2 cups white wine 

2 quarts chicken stock or bouillon 

1 teaspoon paprika 
l /2 cup sour cream 

2 cups egg barley or finely chopped noodles 
2 tablespoons chicken fat 

1 bay leaf 

Cook 1 onion and bacon together 2 or 3 minutes in heavy kettle 
or Dutch oven. Add chicken and saute until golden brown on all 
sides, about 25 minutes. Remove chicken. 

Stir flour into fat remaining in pan. Add garlic, stir, and cook 



82 Liichow's German Cookbook 

1 or 2 minutes. Add wine, 1 quart chicken stock, and seasoning. 
Put chicken in this mixture. Cover and let cook gently 20 min- 
utes, or until chicken is done. Add sour cream; stir. Serve with 
egg barley. Serves 6 or more. 

TO PREPARE EGGBARJLEY: 

Place egg barley or fine noodles in a baking pan. Add chicken 
fat, other onion, bay leaf, and remaining stock or broth. Bake 
in moderate oven (375 F.) 20 minutes. Serve with Chicken 
Paprika. Serves 6 to 8. 

FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN GIBLETS WITH RICE 

Giblets of 4 plump hens (buy only giblets) 
l /2 teaspoon salt 
Dash of pepper 

3 cups boiling water 
2 carrots 

1 leek 

4 small onions 

1 stalk celery 

2 tablespoons butter 
2 tablespoons flour 

2 cups stock from giblets 
1 cup white wine 

1 tablespoon lemon juice 

2 egg yolks, beaten 
2 /2 cup thick cream 
1 cup rice, boiled 

Wash and drain giblets. Season with salt and pepper; cover 
with boiling water. Dice all vegetables and add. Bring to boil, 
then lower heat and cook until giblets are tender, 30 to 45 
minutes. Strain. Discard vegetables. 

Melt butter; stir flour smoothly into it. Add stock, stirring 
slowly. Gradually add wine. Stir and boil until slightly thickened. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 83 

Add lemon juice; mix. Add giblets and, when hot, stir in egg 
yolks mixed with cream. Heat to steaming. Pom over rice in 
casserole. Serves 4. 



CHICKEN LIVERS SAUTEED 
WITH APPLES AND ONION RINGS 

12 chicken livers 
Vz teaspoon salt 
4 teaspoon paprika 

2 tablespoons flour 

3 tablespoons butter 

2 Spanish onion sliced in rings 

4 apple slices about 2 inch thick 

2 tablespoons sugar 

Rinse and drain livers. If very large, cut in half. Season lightly 
with salt and paprika. Sprinkle lightly with flour. Cook gently in 
2 tablespoons butter until browned. 

In another small pan cook onion in a little butter; sprinkle 
over cooked livers. 

In a third pan brown apple slices in remaining butter. Sprin- 
kle with sugar to give glaze and flavor. Top liver and onions. 
Serves 2. 

A very popular dish at Luchow's and a favorite of 
Henry Kaiser and Rosalind RusselL 

VIENNESE BAKED CHICKEN 

WIENER BACKHENDL 

3 young chickens {about 2 2 pounds each), cleaned 
and drawn 

1 tablespoon salt 

1 cup flour 

3 eggs, beaten with 



84 Liichow's German Cookbook 

4 cup water 

2V2 cups fine bread crumbs 

Fat for deep frying 

1 lemon, sliced 

Rinse chickens; drain. Cut each in half; pat dry. Sprinkle with 
salt. Roll each piece in flour. Dip in egg, then in crumbs. 

Fry in deep hot fat, lowering each piece carefully into fat to 
avoid shaking crumbs off. 

When golden brown, place in baking pan and bake in hot oven 
(400 F.) until well browned. Lower heat to 325 F. after crust 
is firm, and continue baking until done, about 40 minutes in 
all. Place on thick paper toweling in a pan; set in oven, but leave 
oven door open. Season lightly with salt Garnish with lemon and 
serve on warmed platter. Serves 6. 



HALF CHICKEN, HUNGARIAN STYLE 

HUHN, UNGARISCHE ART 

2 young chickens, about 2 l /2 pounds each 
2 tablespoon salt 
1/4 pound butter 

1 large onion, diced 

2 teaspoons Hungarian paprika 
1 tablespoon flour 

1 cup stock or bouillon 

1 tablespoon heavy cream 

3 cups hot boiled rice 

2 tablespoons minced fresh dill 

Rinse chickens; pat dry. Cut in halves. Season with salt. Place 
in covered bowl in refrigerator 30 minutes. 

Heat butter in deep pot or Dutch oven until light brown. Cook 
onion, until transparent; stir in paprika. Add chicken. Cook 
slowly until golden, then cover and continue cooking 45 minutes, 



How We Cook at Luchow's 85 

or until tender. Sprinkle with flour. Add stock or bouillon and 
cream. Cover pot and let boil 15 minutes. Remove chicken to 
warmed serving dish. Garnish with mounds of hot rice. Cook 
sauce down and pour over chicken. Sprinkle with dill. Serves 4. 



DUCKLING IN ASPIC 

BERLINER ENTENWEISSAUER 

6-pound duckling, cleaned and drawn 
2 teaspoons salt 

1 small onion 

2 or 3 small carrots 

Ior2 pieces celery or celery leaves 

1 sprig parsley 

2 cloves 

4 peppercorns 

1 boy leaf 

2 cups dry white wine 
2 tablespoons vinegar 
Ior2 pickles, sliced 

2 hard-cooked eggs, sliced 

1V2 tablespoons plain granulated gelatin 

2 egg whites 

Rinse duckling inside and out. Season with salt. Place in pot with 
onion, carrots, celery or celery leaves, parsley, cloves, pepper- 
corns, and bay leaf. Add wine and vinegar and enough water to 
cover the bird. Bring to a boil, then lower heat, cover, and cook 
slowly until bird is tender, about 20 minutes per pound. Test 
with fork after first 30 minutes. 

When duckling is tender, remove and cut in 4 portions. Place 
on serving dish; garnish with sliced pickles, hard-cooked eggs, 
and sliced carrots from stewing kettle. 

Strain stock from kettle. Measure, and add gelatin in the pro- 
portion of 1 tablespoon gelatin to 2 cups stock. Let gelatin soften. 



86 Luchow's German Cookbook 

Beat egg whites slightly; stir into gelatin and stock. Reheat to 
boiling; remove from heat. Let stand until clear and slightly 
thickened. Pour over duckling. Chill in refrigerator. Serves 4. 



ROAST WATERTOWN GOOSE WITH STEWED APPLES 

MAST GANS MIT APFELN 

Stall-fed fat young goose, 12 pounds 

Salt 

4 cups water 

V2 onion,, sliced 

6 peppercorns 

l /4 pound butter 

2 tablespoons flour 

Stewed Apples 

Have goose cleaned and drawn, the wings, neck, head, and feet 
chopped off. Wash goose inside and out; drain. Cover with cold 
water and let soak 15 minutes. Drain; pat dry. Rub with salt 
inside and out. 

Place in baking pan. Add water, onion, and peppercorns. 
Roast in moderate oven (325 K). When water has boiled 
down, baste frequently with butter which has been browned. A 
young goose should be cooked 15-20 minutes per pound. 

Remove goose to warmed platter. Place pan on top of range. 
Stir flour into fat. Add 2 cups water. Stir and let boil 2 or 3 
minutes, until smooth and slightly thickened. Serve with goose. 
Serves 6. 

STEWED APPLES: 

2 pounds apples 
2 tablespoons butter 
1/2 cup sugar 
2 cup water 
2 cup white wine 



How We Cook at Luchow's 87 

1 small piece lemon peel 
1 tablespoon lemon juice 

Wash apples; peel and core. Cat fruit in thick slices. Saute in 
butter 2 or 3 minutes. Sprinkle with sugar. Add water, wine, 
lemon peel, and lemon juice. Cover; cook slowly until apples are 
tender. Serves 6. 



GOOSE IN WINE ASPIC 

CANS IN GELEE, HAMBURGER ART 

8- to 10-pound young goose, cleaned and drawn 

Boiling water 

2 or 3 sprigs parsley 

1 bay leaf 

1 onion, chopped 

1/2 teaspoon thyme 

1 clove garlic, crushed 
Pinch of salt 

6 peppercorns 

2 cups chopped celery 
4 whole allspice 

3 cups dry white wine 

4 pickles, sliced 

4 hard-cooked eggs, sliced 

1 carrot > sliced thin 

4 tablespoons granulated gelatin 

2 egg whites 

Mayonnaise or French dressing 

Rinse goose inside and out; drain. Place in large pot. Add about 
2 quarts boiling water, parsley, bay leaf, onion, thyme, garlic, 
salt, peppercorns, celery, allspice, and wine. Bring to a boil, then 
lower heat, cover, and cook slowly 2 to 2Vz hours, or until bkd is 
tender. 



88 Ltichow's German Cookbook 

When done, remove goose from liquid. Cut in serving pieces 
and arrange in large mold. Garnish with pickles, hard-cooked 
eggs, and carrot. 

Strain stock (there should be about 8 cups) . Add gelatin and 
when softened reheat stock. Beat egg whites slightly and stir 
into stock. When at boiling point, remove from heat. Let stand 
until clear and slightly thickened. Pour over goose in the mold. 
Chill until firm. Serve with mayonnaise or French dressing. 
Serves 6. 



MEDALLION OF GOOSE LIVER A LA LUCHOW 

1 goose liver 
1 cup milk 
4 cup water 
l /2 teaspoon salt 
Dash of pepper 

1 egg, beaten 

2 tablespoons flour 
2 tablespoons butter 
1 tablespoon madeira 

Fried Apples and Onions (see recipe) 
Truffles 

Carefully remove gall from liver. Rinse liver; drain. Combine 
milk and water; add to liver. Let stand covered in refrigerator 2 
hours. Drain. Pat liver dry; season with salt and pepper. Dip 
in egg, then in flour. Saute in hot butter and madeira about 5 
minutes, or until golden; turn liver several times. Remove to a 
warmed serving dish. 

Serve with Fried Apples and Onions. Garnish with Truffles. 
Serves 1. 




BREAST OF GUINEA HEN, SOUS CLOCHE 

l /2 cup wild rice 

2 tablespoons butter 

l /2 small onion, chopped 

l /2 cup chicken broth 

Thin slice Virginia ham for 1 serving 

Breast of guinea hen 

% teaspoon salt 

Dash of pepper 

2 mushroom caps 

Slice of toast 

l /2 teaspoon flour 

% cup sherry 

Wash rice; drain; let dry. Saute with onion in 1 tablespoon butter. 
Add chicken broth; stir. Pour into small casserole. Cover and 
place in moderate oven (325 R), let simmer 45 minutes, or 
until rice is tender and has absorbed liquid. 



90 Luchow's German Cookbook 

Cook ham in hot pan until browned. Remove ham and keep 
hot. Add remaining butter; saute guinea breast. Add salt, pepper, 
and mushrooms. Cook about 15 minutes, turning guinea fre- 
quently and basting with pan juices. 

In serving dish place ham on toast, guinea breast on ham, and 
top with mushroom caps. 

To remaining pan sauce add flour; stir smoothly and let boil. 
Add sherry; stir. When steaming, pour over guinea breast. Cover 
with glass cloche or bell. Serve wild rice with this. Individual 
serving. 

BABY PARTRIDGE WITH WBNEKMAUT 

REBHUHN IN WEINKRAUT 

Prepare like Pheasant with Pineapple Kraut. Omit fresh pine- 
apple; use 2 peeled, cored, and chopped apples in kraut mixture. 

PHEASANT WITH PINEAPPLE KRAUT 

FASAN MIT ANANAS KRAUT 

2 young pheasants, cleaned and drawn 

1V2 teaspoons salt 

Dash of pepper 

2 thin slices bacon 

2 tablespoons butter 

l x /2 pounds sauerkraut 

l /2 cup white wine 

1 cup diced fresh pineapple 

1 tablespoon flour 

Rinse birds. (Heads and feet should be removed.) Season lightly 
inside and out with salt and pepper. Place bacon slice on breast 
of each bird; tie in place or skewer with toothpicks. Saute birds 
in butter 15 minutes, or until lightly browned. Place in deep 
pot, Dutch oven, or casserole. 



How We Cook at Liichow's 91 

Drain sauerkraut a little. Mix with wine and pineapple and 
surround birds. Cover and cook slowly 1 hour. When birds are 
done, remove from sauerkraut; remove skewer or toothpicks. 
Place birds on warmed serving dish. Stir flour into sauerkraut; 
cook a few minutes. Serve with birds. Serves 2 to 4. 

Whenever pheasant is in season, Ed and Pegeen 
Fitzgerald choose this dish. 



LEFTOVERS 

If you have small amounts of leftover cooked goose, duck, 
chicken, or other poultry, cut the pieces in narrow strips. Arrange 
in individual molds with sliced cooked vegetables, such as 
carrots and beets, and raw green peppers. Cover with stock aspic 
(as in Goose in Wine Aspic). Chill. Unmold on lettuce; garnish 
with sliced tomatoes and cooked green vegetables. Serve with 
mayonnaise or French dressing. 



5. 



MEATS AND GAME 



A buyer who purchases supplies for a fine restaurant 

knows that the first consideration is to buy food of the 

best quality available. It is important in everything, large or 

small, but particularly in meats, which axe the core of any 

restaurant's buying. 

At Liichow's we must make certain that the loins, ribs, and 
other beef products are of prime quality and proper age. Three 
and a half weeks is considered the right age for beef. Then it has 
begun to get tender without acquiring a gamy flavor. 

To make the schnitzels and other Austrian dishes for which 
Liichow's has always been famous, we require Detroit white veal 
from milk-fed baby calves. Lamb must be corn-fed spring lamb 
and no other. Pork comes to us from a supplier who has served 
us for thirty years and knows our specifications. He remembers 
that our pigs' knuckles must weigh one and a half pounds each. 
This is a cut slightly more than a knuckle and includes part of 
the shoulder, which is the tenderest part. When he sends us 
smoked pork loins, our man makes certain they are lean, because 
the lean retains more flavor than a fat portion when it is smoked. 

The traditional German and Austrian game dishes on our 
menu are made with American-caught hare and venison, I find 



How We Cook at Luchow's 93 

the fresh-killed Canadian hare best for many dishes, but it must 
be delivered to us packed in ice, not frozen. We prefer Wisconsin 
deer, because they are properly fed and the meat lends itself to 
aging, which is most important. 



BEEF 



BOILED BEEF, BANOVER STYLE 

4 pounds beef plate 
Boiling water 
1 carrot, diced 

1 small onion, diced 

2 teaspoons salt 
4 peppercorns 
4 cloves 

16 small boiled onions 
2 pickles, sliced 
2 hard-cooked eggs 
1 7 -ounce can tuna fish 

1 egg yolk 

2 cups olive oil 

2 tablespoons capers 

Caper vinegar 

Stock from Boiled Beef 

Wipe meat with damp cloth. Place in pot; cover with boiling 
water. Add carrot, onion, salt, peppercorns, and cloves. Bring 
to a boil, then lower heat, cover kettle, and simmer about 3 
hours. Skim top occasionally. 

When beef is done, remove it and slice. Garnish with cooked 
onions, pickles, and hard-cooked eggs. Pour over it a special 
sauce made as follows: 



94 Lilchow's German Cookbook 

Hake the tuna fish and press through sieve. In a bowl beat 
egg yolk with olive oil, gradually adding fish to make a thick 
tuna mayonnaise. Add capers and a very little caper vinegar. To 
thin the sauce to gravy consistency, add a little stock from kettle 
in which the beef boiled. Serves 8 or more. 

Boiled Beef is served with Between the Acts or Home Fried 
Potatoes. 

Variations: Potatoes are diced, cooked in boiling beef stock 
(last 30 minutes) for Rinderbrust, Meerettig Sauce, Briihkar- 

toffel. 

When vegetables are omitted and noodles are cooked in the 
pot with the beef, the dish is called Rinderbrust mit Nudeln im 
Topf. 



BOILED BEEF 

4 pounds iresh beef (about 3 ribs) 

l l /2 teaspoons salt 

Boiling water 

2 or 3 sprigs parsley 

4 peppercorns 

V2 teaspoon thyme 

2 onions, peeled 

2 carrots, scraped 

1 parsnip, peeled 

1 small turnip, peeled 

1 bay leaf 

Horseradish Sauce (see recipe) 

Wipe meat with damp cloth. Rub with salt. Place in pot. Cover 
with boiling water; bring to a boil quickly and boil 10 minutes. 
Skim top. Add parsley, peppercorns, and thyme. Cover pot, re- 
duce heat, and cook slowly 2Yz to 3 hours. For last hour of 
cooking add vegetables and bay leaf. 

Remove vegetables when done and use them as garnish in 



How We Cook at Luchow's 95 

Boiled Beef Biirgerlicli. Use the broth from the pot for soup. 
Serve Boiled Beef with Horseradish Sauce and plain boiled 
vegetables. Serves 2 to 4. 

Boiled Beef with Sauerkraut (RINDERBRUST SAUERKRAUT) : 
Omit assorted vegetables; serve beef with sauerkraut 

The list of famous Luchow patrons of the past and 
present who have feasted on the Boiled Beef reads like 
a World Who's Who. Caruso preferred this beef dish to 
all others in the restaurant. He often began his dinner 
with pigs' knuckles, then ate Boiled Beef, and with his 
dinner drank a dozen steins of beer. H. L. Mencken 
follows the same formula. It is also the favorite 
Luchow dish of Ed and Pegeen Fitzgerald. 

Flo Ziegfeld was another Boiled Beef devotee. 
Herbert Bayard Swope and Irving Berlin order the 
Boiled Beef mit sauerkraut. So do Owen D. Young, 
Roy Howard and Walter P. Chrysler, Jr. 

BOILED BEEF IN CASSEROLE, BOURGEOISE 

RINDERBRUST BURGERLICH 

4 large serving-size pieces boiled beef 

2 cups Brown Sauce (see recipe) 

4 small boiled onions 

4 small boiled carrots 

2 tablespoons butter 

1 teaspoon salt 

1 teaspoon sugar 

8 Parisierme Potatoes (see recipe) 

iPlace meat in casserole; cover with Brown Sauce. Cook onions 
and carrots 3 or 4 minutes in hot butter; season with salt and 
sugar. Add to casserole. Cook in hot oven (400 R) 25 minutes. 
Baste meat frequently with sauce. Add potatoes; continue cook- 
ing 10 minutes. Serves 4. 



98 Luchow's German Cookbook 



BOILED BEEF IN CASSEROLE, BURGERLICH 

1 thick slice boiled beef 

1 hot boiled potato 

l /2 cup beef broth from pot in which beef boiled 

2 tablespoons cooked peas or lima beans 
1 small sour gherkin 

1 tablespoon Sauerbraten gravy (see Sauerbraten 
recipe) 

Place slice of boiled beef in small casserole. Add potato, a little 
beef broth, small amount of cooked green vegetable, or wine 
kraut, the gherkin, and sauerbraten gravy. Set under moderate 
broiler. Heat 5 to 6 minutes to heat through. Serve in casserole. 
Individual serving. 

BEEF A LA MODE 

GEDAMPFTE RINDERBRUST 

6 pounds fresh brisket of beef 
1 tablespoon salt 
Dash of pepper 

1 quart red wine 

2 tablespoons beef suet or butter 
Flour 

1 calfs foot or veal bone 

1 cup chopped f drained tomatoes 

1 clove garlic 

2 sprigs parsley 
1 bay leaf 

1 quart stock or bouillon 
6 small carrots 
12 small onions 
1 tablespoon butter 



How We Cook at Luchow's 99 

Season beef with salt and pepper. Pour wine over meat; let stand 
in covered crock 2 or 3 hours in the refrigerator. Turn beef 
several times during this period. When ready to cook, remove 
meat from marinade; pat dry. Brown in hot fat in deep iron kettle 
or Dutch oven. Sprinkle flour in bottom of pot; mix and stir with 
fat. Add call's foot or bone, wine marinade, tomatoes, garlic, 
herbs, and enough stock barely to cover meat. Bring to boil. 
Lower heat, cover pan, and cook slowly about 2 hours. 

Boil carrots. Saut6 onions in a little butter until delicately 
browned. Remove meat from pot. Strain gravy. Return meat to 
pot; add carrots, onions, and gravy. Bring to boil and cook 30 
minutes to 1 hour longer. Test for doneness. Serves 6. 

Potato Pancakes are always served with the Rinderbrust 



BOILED BEEF HASH OMELET 

HOPPEL-POPPEL, KOPFSALAT 

2 cups diced boiled beef 
1 onion, chopped 

1 or 2 slices bacon, chopped 

2 tablespoons butter 
2 eggs, beaten 

Salt and pepper, if needed 

Cook beef, onion, and bacon in butter until hot and bacon is 
cooked. Add eggs and spread in pan; season; let bottom brown 
like omelet. Fold over and serve. Serves 2 or 3, 
Serve with hearts of lettuce salad. 



HASH, A LA LUBECK 

Rich pie pastry for 1-quart casserole or pie dish 



cups chopped cold roast beef 
2 teaspoons chopped capers 



100 Luchow's German Cookbook 

4 anchovies 

3 eggs, beaten 

3 tablespoons bread crumbs 

% teaspoon pepper 

*/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

1 teaspoon salt 

Caper Sauce (see recipe) or 

Anchovy Cream Sauce (see recipe) 

Line casserole with pie pastry. Mix beef with other ingredients. 
Add 1 more beaten egg if necessary for smooth, slightly moist 
mixture. Pour in casserole. Cover top with pie pastry; crimp 
top and bottom pastry together in a decorative edge; gash top 
in simple leaf pattern. Bake in moderate oven (350 F.) 45 
minutes to 1 hour, or until crust is golden. Serve with Caper 
Sauce or Anchovy Cream Sauce. Serves 6. 



GERMAN BEEF RAGOUT 

RAGOUT A LA DEUTSCH 

3 pounds bottom round of beef 

1 pound onions, diced 

1 or 2 tablespoons beef fat or shortening 

1 veal kidney 

1 teaspoon salt 

Dash of pepper 

l /2 teaspoon paprika 

1 tablespoon flour 

3 cups stock or hot water 

1 cup tomato puree or chopped tomatoes 

1 bay leaf 

1 teaspoon chopped caraway seeds 

4 carrots, scraped and diced 

4 small turnips, peeled and diced 

4 medium-size potatoes, peeled and diced 



How We Cook at Luchow's 101 

Wipe meat with damp cloth. Dice beef and saute with onions iq 
fat until onions are transparent. 

Rinse kidney; cut off any excess fat. Slice kidney into pan 
with beef and onions. Season with salt, pepper, and paprika. 
Cover and let cook slowly 30 minutes. Stir frequently. Add 
flour; stir and mix well. Add stock or water to cover meat mix- 
ture well. Add tomato pure or tomatoes. Mk and bring to boil, 
then lower heat and cook slowly 30 minutes. Add bay leaf, 
caraway seeds, and vegetables. Cover and let simmer 1 hour. 
Serves 6 or more. 

Tyrolienne Alps Ragout: Omit veal kidney from above recipe. 



BRESLAUER STEAK, CASSEROLE 

3 pounds porterhouse steak, 1 inch thick 

1 slice fat sdt pork 

2 cups Brown Sauce (see recipe) 
6 small boiled onions 

6 small boiled white turnips 

4 tablespoons butter 
2 teaspoons sugar 

1 teaspoon salt 

12 Parisienne Potatoes (see recipe) 

Pound steak well. Cut salt pork in small pieces and heat in fry- 
ing pan. Brown meat in the fat, cooking until lightly browned 
on all sides. 

Place meat in casserole. Pour Brown Sauce over it. Cover; 
bake in slow oven (250 F.) until tender, about 2Vz hours. 
Turn steak after first hour of cooking; baste frequently with 
sauce in casserole. 

Brown onions and turnips in butter; season with sugar and 
salt. Add to casserole with Parisienne Potatoes. Serves 6. 



102 Luchow's German Cookbook 



LUCHOW HAMBURGER 

3 pounds beef 

2 pound veal kidney fat or beef suet 

4 or 5 slices white bread soaked in a little water 
IVz teaspoons salt 

2 teaspoon pepper 

V* teaspoon grated nutmeg 

2 eggs, beaten 

Mix meat and fat. Squeeze as much water as possible from 
bread. Add bread to the meat; mix smoothly. Add seasonings 
and eggs. Combine well. Shape in large patties. Broil or cook 
in a little fat in a hot pan until browned and done as desired. 
Serves 8. 

When Fritz Kreisler dines here the Luchow Ham- 
burger is one of his favorite dishes. For their dessert, 
Mr. and Mrs. Kreisler enjoy one of the great German 
Pancakes. 

Frank Sullivan, whose humor has delighted thou- 
sands of magazine readers for many years, is another 
Luchow Hamburger enthusiast. And so are Dorothy 
and Lillian Gish, Eddie Cantor, Linda Darnell, Helen 
Hayes, and H. L. Mencken. 



BROILED DEVILED SHORT RIBS 

3 pounds short ribs of beef 
Salt and pepper 

4 teaspoons English mustard 
4 cup olive oil 

V* cup bread crumbs 
Mustard Sauce (see recipe) 



How We Cook at Luchow's 103 

Wipe meat with damp cloth. Season with salt and pepper. Place 
in roasting pan and roast in moderate oven (325 F.) until 
tender, about 27 minutes per pound. Baste frequently with 
juices in pan. 

Let cool. Cut in serving pieces, each piece containing a bone. 
Spread with mustard and oil. Cover with crumbs. Broil under 
moderate heat until browned. Serve with Mustard Sauce. Serves 
4. 



VIENNA STEAK AND POTATOES 

WIENER ROSTBRATEN 

4 2 -pound Delmonico (or club or sirloin) steaks 
1 teaspoon salt 
1/2 teaspoon pepper 
4 large onions, sliced 

3 tablespoons butter 

4 medium-size Idaho potatoes 
Fat for deep frying 

Few stalks watercress 

Small piece fresh horseradish root 

Wipe meat with damp cloth. Pound steaks very thin; season with 
salt and pepper. Saute onions in butter until transparent; remove 
onions. Place steaks in hot fat and cook over high heat until 
delicately browned on each side and rare inside, about 10 min- 
utes in all. 

Peel potatoes; cut crosswise in Vz -inch slices. Fry in deep 
hot fat (370 F.) until golden, 15 minutes. Place steaks on hot 
platter; cover with cooked onions; surround with fried potatoes. 
Garnish with watercress and a few shavings of fresh horseradish. 
Serves 4. 

This is the favorite dish of Helen Traubel, Cole 
Porter, Lord Beaverbrook, and Sarah Churchill. 




Walter Damrosch often lunched and dined at 
Luchow's with his grandchildren. They ordered one of 
the following two dishes. The great conductor's favorite 
beverage always was a German red wine, Assmans~ 
hauser. 

LUCHOW'S BEEF STEAK TARTAR 

2 pounds fillet of beef 

4 slices freshly buttered toast 

4 fresh raw eggs 

8 sardellen 

2 tablespoons capers 

Remove all fat from beef. Grind meat fine. Arrange on toast; 
serve raw egg on top of each slice. Garnish with sardellen and 
capers. Serves 4. 

NOTE: If you are dieting to lose weight, this is a satisfying 
and effective dish. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 105 

RAW MEAT LUCULLUS 

SCHLEMMERSCHNITTE 

2 pounds fillet of beef 
4 slices freshly buttered toast 
4 tablespoons fresh black caviar 
I 1 /* tablespoons chopped onion 

Remove all fat from beef. Grind meat fine. Arrange on toast; 
garnish with caviar; serve with chopped onions on a side dish. 
Serves 4. 

NOTE: See diet note above. 

This dish was a favorite of the great Pavlova and of 
John Barrymore, and still is of many show people. 

SLICED BEEF IN BROWN SAUCE 

2 pounds beef 

1 teaspoon salt 

2 teaspoon pepper 
6 slices bacon 

2 tablespoons beef suet or butter 
4 mushroom caps, sliced 

2 tablespoons flour 

4 slices toast 

1 or 2 truffles t diced 

1 cup hot Brown Sauce (see recipe) 

The best beef for this dish is from the round. Wipe meat with 
damp cloth. Cut in slices about *4 inch thick and 2 inches wide. 
Pound well. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Lay bacon slice on 
each piece. 

Saute in hot fat with mushrooms. Sprinkle flour over. Cover 
pan and cook until bacon is done and meat tender, about 25 
minutes. Place meat on toast; keep hot. 

Add truffles to Brown Sauce; spoon over meat. Serves 4. 

Serve with Braised Celery and Parisienne Potatoes. 



106 Luchow's German Cookbook 

POT ROAST WITH POTATO DUMPLING 

SAUERBRATEN MIT KARTOFFEL KLOSSE 

3 pounds round steak 

1 tablespoon salt 
V2 teaspoon pepper 

2 onions, sliced 
1 carrot^ sliced 

1 stalk celery, chopped 

4 cloves 

4 peppercorns 

2 pint red wine vinegar 

2 bay leaves 

2 tablespoons kidney fat 
6 tablespoons butter 

3 tablespoons flour 
1 tablespoon sugar 

5 gingersnaps, crushed 

Potato or Bread Dumplings (see recipe) 

Wipe steak with damp cloth; season with salt and pepper. Place 
in earthen, glass, or enamelware bowl Combine onions, carrot, 
celery, cloves, peppercorns, vinegar, and bay leaves and 2 l /2 
pints water, or enough to cover meat Cover and put in refriger- 
ator 4 days. 

On fifth day remove from refrigerator, drain meat, saute in kid- 
ney fat and 1 tablespoon butter in enamelware, glass or earthen- 
ware utensil, until seared on all sides. Add marinade liquid and 
bring to boil, then lower heat and let simmer about 3 hours. 

Melt remaining 5 tablespoons butter in a pan. Stir flour 
smoothly into it. Add sugar, blend, and let brown to nice dark 
color. Add to simmering meat mixture. Cover and continue 
cooking until meat is tender, about 1 hour longer. 

Remove meat to a warmed serving platter. Stir crushed 
gingersnaps into the pot juices and cook until thickened. Pour 
this special sauerbraten gravy over meat. Serves 6 or more. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 107 

Serve with Potato or Bread Dumplings. A fine full-bodied red 
wine is a fitting complement to this well-known dish. A favorite 
with our guests is Pommard Burgundy. 

COLD SAUERBRATEN A LA MODE IN ASPIC 

Leftover Sauerbraten makes a delicious dish in madeira- 
flavored aspic. Place a piece of Sauerbraten in a serving dish 
or mold. Cover and surround with aspic; decorate with fancy- 
cut raw and cooked vegetables; chill and serve. 

MADEIRA ASPIC 

5 cups beef broth or stock 

1 cup madeira wine 

2 tablespoons granulated gelatin 

Heat most of broth or stock to boiling. Moisten gelatin with a 
little cold stock or water and stir into broth. Add any remaining 
stock and wine. Let stand until cool and slightly thickened. 
Pour over meat as described. Chill in refrigerator until firm. 
Makes 1 quart aspic. Serves 6 or more. 

ROAST PRIME RIBS OF BEEF 

At Luchow's the standing rib roast weighs about 35 
pounds. When this great piece of superb beef is half 
done, the chef adds whole onions, carrots, and spices 
to the pan to flavor the meat a la Luchow. Here is his 
recipe for a family-size cut. 

2- or 3-rib standing roast (4 to 5 pounds) 

Salt 

Pepper 

2 small onions 

4 carrots, quartered 

2 tablespoons mixed whole spices 



108 Liichow's German Cookbook 

Wipe meat with damp cloth. Place, fat side up, in roasting pan. 
Mix 1 tablespoon salt and pepper (% salt, 3 pepper) and rub 
this well into meat. Place in moderate oven (350 F.) to start. 
Do not cover. Do not add water. Baste frequently with drippings 
in the pan. When roast is half done, lower heat to 275 F. or 
250 F. At this point add onions, carrots, and spices to pan. 
Continue basting meat frequently with pan juices. 

For rare roast, allow 18 to 20 minutes per pound roasting 
time; for medium, 22 to 25 minutes per pound; for well done, 
27 to 30 minutes per pound. Serves 8 or more. 

Fred Allen, who has told his diet problems to a 
radio-listening world, often drools over the dishes 
named on our big menu but usually settles for roast 
beef, as that is his favorite. 



SWEDISH MEAT BALLS 

1 pound beef 

1 pound pork loin 

1 pound veal 

2 tablespoons chopped shallots 
2 cloves garlic, mashed 

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill 

1 cup cream, whipped 

2 eggs, beaten 
2 cup sugar 
Salt 
Pepper 

*/8 teaspoon cayenne 

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 

4 tablespoons butter 

Extra cream 

Grind together beef, pork, and veal very fine, twice. Mix meat 
with shallots, garlic, dill, whipped cream, eggs, and sugar. Add 



How We Cook at Luchow's 109 

salt and pepper to taste, cayenne, and Worcestershire. Stir and 
mix thoroughly with a wooden spoon until well blended and 
smooth. If necessary, add a little more cream. 

Make into small, neat balls about 1 inch in diameter. Saute 
in butter very slowly over medium heat. Do not disturb them. 
When half cooked, about 20 minutes, set pan in moderate oven 
(350 F.) After another 20 to 25 minutes, add cream to make 
a thin gravy. Add some chopped dill to gravy. Serves 6 to 8. 

Serve with baked red kidney beans and a side dish of lingon- 
berries. 



ROULADE OF BEEF, AUGUST LUCHOW 

2 pounds top round of beef 

2 teaspoon salt 

V4 teaspoon pepper 

1 medium-size onion, chopped fine 

1 shallot,, minced 

1 clove garlic, minced 

V4 pound beef, ground fine 

V4 pound veal f ground fine 

V4 pound pork, ground fine 

1 tablespoon chopped parsley 

1 teaspoon chopped chives 

2 slices bread soaked in milk 
2 cup cream 

6 thin slices fat salt pork 

4 cup flour 

2 tablespoons beef fat, butter, or margarine 

2 large onions, sliced thin 

2 or 3 carrots, sliced thin 

2 teaspoon powdered cloves 

2 teaspoon thyme 

1 bay leaf 



110 Liichow's German Cookbook 

2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped 
1 cup burgundy wine 
1 cup veal stock 

Wipe top round with damp cloth. Cut beef in 6 slices about 2 l /2 
inches by 4 inches and Vz, inch thick. Place on board and pound 
well to about 1 A inch thickness. Season with salt and pepper. 

Combine onion, shallots, garlic, ground beef, veal, and pork, 
parsley, chives, bread, and cream. Mix well. Spoon generous 
amount of mixture onto each piece of beef. Roll, wrap with slice 
of salt pork, and tie or skewer with toothpicks. Sprinkle lightly 
with flour. 

Grease deep heavy pot or Dutch oven with beef fat, butter, 
or margarine. Place roulades in this; cover with sliced onions 
and carrots. Add cloves, thyme, and bay leaf. Cover pot and 
cook over high heat 8 to 10 minutes to brown meat. Turn 
roulades to brown on all sides. Add tomatoes, wine, and stock. 
Cover pot with waxed paper rubbed with beef fat or butter and 
placed fat side down. Set pot in moderate oven (350 F.) and 
cook until rolls are done, 30 to 45 minutes. 

Remove roulades to a warmed serving dish (remove skewers 
or string). Set pot on high heat and boil pot sauce rapidly to 
reduce it. Strain, reheat if necessary, and pour over roulades. 
Serves 6. 

Serve with hot vegetables such as glazed onions, new peas, 
and Parisienne Potatoes. 



LAMB 



LAMB CHOPS CHAMPILLON 

6 loin or rib lamb chops 
2 tablespoons butter 
pounds potatoes 



How We Cook at Luchow's 111 

1 pound onions, sliced 

1 bay leaf 

1V2 teaspoons salt 

2 teaspoon pepper 

1Y2 cups beef or chicken stock, or bouillon 

2 tablespoons minced parsley 
4 tablespoons bread crumbs 

Saute chops in butter. Cover pan and cook 5 to 10 minutes, or 
until meat is delicately browned on both sides. 

Wash potatoes; peel and slice thin. Add to meat with onions, 
bay leaf, salt, pepper, and enough beef or chicken stock to cover. 
Cover pot and let cook until meat is tender, 25 to 30 minutes. 

Remove chops to a casserole. Cover with potato and onion 
mixture from the pot; sprinkle with parsley and bread crumbs. 
Brown in hot oven (400 F.) or under moderate broiler heat 
until top is golden. Serves 6. 



PORK 

BROCHETTE OF PORK TENDERLOIN 

WITH WILD RICE AND SOUR SAUCE 

1V2 pounds pork tenderloin 

4 slices bacon 

8 mushroom caps 

6 tablespoons butter 

6 tablespoons bread crumbs 

Wild Rice with Raisins (see recipe) 

Sour Cream Sauce (see recipe) 

Cut pork in pieces suitable for individual skewers (1%-inch 
cubes) . Cut each slice of bacon in 4 pieces. Saute mushrooms 
in 2 tablespoons butter. Place all on 4 skewers, starting with 



112 Luchow's German Cookbook 

mushroom cap, then alternating bacon and pork, using 4 pieces 
of each meat on each skewer, and ending with mushroom. Melt 
remaining butter and sprinkle over filled skewers; roll each in 
crumbs. Place on broiler pan under moderate heat. Cook until 
browned on all sides and done, about 15 minutes. Serve on 
mound of Wild Rice with Raisins. Serve Sour Cream Sauce with 
this. Serves 4. 

NOTE: Instead of cooking this on skewers, cut meat in 4 long, 
narrow pieces and broil until lightly cooked. Lay bacon on top 
and sauteed mushroom caps on top of bacon; sprinkle with 
crumbs. Continue broiling until bacon is cooked and all is well 
browned. Serve with Wild Rice with Raisins and Sour Cream 
Sauce as described. 



LOIN OF PORK IN ASPIC 

SULZ KOTELETT 

3 or 4 pounds loin of pork 
1V2 teaspoons salt 

1 small ordon 

2 or 3 small carrots 

1 or 2 pieces celery or celery leaves 
1 sprig parsley 

4 cloves 

4 peppercorns 

1 bay leaf 

2 cups dry white wine 
4 tablespoons vinegar 

1 or 2 pickles, sliced 

2 hard-cooked eggs, sliced 

3 tablespoons plain gelatin 
2 egg whites 

Wipe meat. Season with salt. Place in pot with onion, carrois, 
celery or celery leaves, parsley, cloves, peppercorns, and bay 



How We Cook at Luchow's 113 

leaf. Add wine and vinegar and enough water to cover meat. 
Bring to a boil, then lower heat, cover, and cook slowly until 
meat is tender, about 1 to IVi hours. Test with fork after first 
hour. 

When meat is tender, remove from pot and cut in 4 portions. 
Place on serving dish. Garnish with pickles, eggs, and the carrots 
from the stewing kettle. 

Strain stock; measure. Add gelatin in the proportion of 1 
tablespoon gelatin to 2 cups stock. Let gelatin soften. Beat egg 
whites slightly; stir into gelatin and stock. Reheat to boiling: 
remove from heat. Let stand until clear and slightly thickened 
Pour over meat. Chill in refrigerator. Serves 4 or more. 



SMOKED LOIN OF PORK 

WITH SAUERKRAUT AND GRAPES 

KASSLER RIPPCHEN GLACE 

8 pounds smoked loin of pork 
Boiling water 

1 bay leaf 

8 peppercorns 
6 whole allspice 

2 cups fruit juice or white wine 
1 1 /2 cups brown sugar 

1 cup seedless grapes 
4 cups sauerkraut 
Burgundy Sauce (see recipe) 

Wash and scrub loin. Place in kettle; add boiling water barely 
to cover, bay leaf, peppercorns, and spice. Simmer. Allow 15 
minutes' simmering time per pound; if loin is small, allow 30 
minutes per pound. 

When done, let cool hi water in which it cooked. Drain; strip 
off skin. Place hi baking pan and bake in hot oven (425 F.). 
Baste with wine or fruit juice; dredge with sugar. Lower heat to 



114 Luchow's German Cookbook 

moderate (350 F.) and let brown 25 minutes, until glazed and 

shiny. 

Wash and peel grapes. Mix sauerkraut, grapes, and juices 
from the pan; arrange kraut mixture around meat; let cook 15 
minutes. Serve pork loin with sauerkraut and Burgundy Sauce. 

Allow 34 pound meat per serving. 



BARBECUED SPARERIBS 

2 whole pieces spareribs -weighing 1 2 pounds each, 
cracked through center 

2 medium-size onions, quartered 
1 teaspoon salt 

*/4 teaspoon pepper 

1 bay leaf 

3 cloves 

x /2 teaspoon mixed spices 
2 /s teaspoon thyme 

2 carrots, sliced thin 

1 teaspoon English mustard 
1 clove garlic, mashed 
4 cup vinegar 
2 /4 cup sugar 

3 cups chili sauce 

1 tablespoon Al sauce 

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 

Stock or bouillon 

Place spareribs and onions in baking pan; season with salt and 
pepper. Brown under broiler, turning to brown both sides. 

Tie bay leaf, cloves, mixed spices, and thyme in a small piece 
of cheesecloth. Place in pan; add carrots. Mix mustard, garlic, 
vinegar, sugar, chili sauce, Al, and Worcestershire, and pour 
over ribs. Add stock or bouillon barely to cover. Bring to a boil, 
then set in moderate oven (350 F.) to cook slowly until well 
done s about \Vi hours in all. 



How We Cook at Lfichow's 115 

Remove ribs to hot platter. Remove spice bag. Strain gravy 
and pour over ribs. Serving is l /2 pound per person. 



BEVELED PIGS' FEET 

4 pigs' feet 
1 large onion 
1 clove garlic, cut 

1 lemon, sliced 

2 bay leaves 
4 peppercorns 
1 teaspoon Salt 
8 whole cloves 

4 tablespoons English mustard 
*/4 cup olive oil 
1 A cup bread crumbs 
Mustard Sauce {see recipe) 

Wash and split pigs' feet in halves. Place in kettle with onion, 
garlic, lemon, bay leaves, peppercorns, salt, and cloves. Cover 
with water. Boil slowly until tender, about 2Vz hours. Drain. 
Let cool. Place in shallow pan; spread pigs' feet with mustard 
and oil. Cover with crumbs. Broil under moderate heat until 
golden brown. Serve with Mustard Sauce. Serves 4. 

Sauerkraut and mashed potatoes are always served with 
Deviled Pigs' Feet. 



PIGS 5 KJTOCKLES 

METHOD OF CORNING: 

2 gallons water 

1 pound salt 

1 teaspoon saltpeter 

Marinate pigs' knuckles in this solution for 10 days. 



116 Luchow's German Cookbook 

METHOD OF COOKING: 

Cover pigs' knuckles with fresh water, no salt. Add small onion, 
cut in half, few peppercorns, few bay leaves. Boil 2 l /2 or 3 hours, 
until tender. Serve with Sauerkraut. 

Pig's Knuckle in Burgundy: After pig's knuckle has been 
boiled until tender, remove from water. Arrange pig's knuckle in 
baking dish on Weinkraut (see recipe). Cover with burgundy 
and brown in oven. 



VEAL 



HAM AND VEAL PATE 

Rich pastry for large 2-crust casserole pie 

2 slices cold boiled ham, 2 /2 inch thick 

2 slices cold veal schnitzel, 2 inch thick 

4 tablespoons fresh pork lard 

2 shallots, minced 

2 tablespoons minced parsley 

2 cup minced fresh or canned mushrooms 

2 or 3 eggs 

1V2 teaspoons salt 

2 teaspoon pepper 

Line a deep loaf pan or casserole with pie pastry. Cut ham and 
veal in small round pieces. 

To trimmings of ham and veal add lard, shallots, parsley, and 
mushrooms. Grind together very fine. Beat eggs into meat mix- 
ture; season with salt and pepper. Arrange alternate layers of 
meat and the meat mixture to fill baking dish. Cover with pastry; 
crimp edge decoratively; gash top in several places in a decora- 



How We Cook at Luchow's 117 

tive pattern. Bake in slow oven (300 F.) IVz hours, or until 
crust is golden. Serve warm or cold. Serves 4. 

We recommend a delicate white still wine with this savory 
dish. Liebfraumilch, Blue Nun, is the choice of the gourmets 
who order this pate on Fourteenth Street, 



VEAL CUTLETS WITH FRIED EGGS 

SCHNITZEL HOLSTE1N 

4 6-ounce veal cutlets 
2 teaspoon salt 

4 teaspoon pepper 
Flour 

5 eggs 

1 cup bread crumbs 

6 tablespoons butter 

8 or 12 anchovy fillets 

8 thin slices pickled beet 

4 or 8 slices dill or sour pickle 

Home Fried Potatoes (see recipe) 

Wipe cutlets with damp cloth. Pound meat thin; season; dip each 
cutlet in flour. Beat 1 egg. Dip cutlets in this, then roll in bread 
crumbs. Cook in 4 tablespoons butter until golden brown on 
both sides. 

Fry the remaining 4 eggs in 2 tablespoons butter. 

Remove cutlets to a warmed serving dish. Place fried egg on 
each; garnish with anchovy fillets, sliced beet, and pickles. Serve 
with generous helping of Home Fried Potatoes. Serves 4. 

You'll be extra happy with this dish if you do as Liichow 
patrons do and sip a fine Moselle wine with the Schnitzel. 
Piesporter Goldtropfchen Auslese, from the Kesselstatt domain 
in Germany, is recommended by our competent guardians of the 
wine list on Fourteenth Street 

"The cars that purr up to its antique doors today are 



118 Luchow's German Cookbook 

streamlined/' said Bob Considine in his Collier's, 
December 1950, article on Luchow's, "but if you stay 
inside the mellow place long enough you see or sense 
the well-fed ghosts of its bygone diners: Al Smith come 
to wave a sensitive and grateful nose over a sizzling 
schnitzel/' 

Not only a sizzling schnitzel would greet Al of the 
famous brown head covering, but he loved the -fra- 
grance and the good things which preceded and fol- 
lowed this famous dish, and the comradeship of his 
many friends who made Luchow's their favorite eating 
place. 

Schnitzel Holstem belongs in the tradition of those 
great days. 



VEAL CUTLETS A LA LUCHOW 

SCHNITZEL A LA LUCHOW 

4 8-ounce veal cutlets 

6 tablespoons butter 

1 cup stock 

6 eggs 

1 tablespoon chopped chives 

1 teaspoon salt 

4 teaspoon pepper 

10 medium-size fresh mushrooms, sliced 

16 stalks hot cooked -fresh asparagus 

Wipe cutlets with damp cloth; pound. Cook in 4 tablespoons 
butter until golden on both sides and cooked through. Remove 
cutlets to wanned serving dish and keep hot. 

Stir stock into pan gravy and cook until smooth and slightly 
thickened. 

Beat eggs; add chives, salt, and pepper. Saute mushrooms in 
remaining butter 3 or 4 minutes. Add egg and chive mixture to 



How We Cook. at Luchow's 119 

mushrooms; cook over moderate heat, stirring like scrambled 
eggs. Pour this mixture over cutlets. Streak with a little -hot 
gravy. Garnish platter with asparagus. Serves 4. 



BREADED YEAL CUTLET 

WIENER SCHNITZEL 

4 6-ounce veal cutlets 

Flour 

3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese 

1 egg, beaten 

1 teaspoon minced parsley 

2 teaspoon salt 

2 /4 teaspoon pepper 

1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

2 cup milk 

6 tablespoons butter 

Juice 3 A lemon 

Parsley for garnish 

Wipe meat with damp cloth; pound very thin; dip lightly in flour. 
Mix cheese, 2 tablespoons flour, egg, parsley, salt, pepper, nut- 
meg, and milk. Beat smooth. Dip floured cutlets in this batter. 
Cook over low heat in 4 tablespoons butter until golden and 
tender. 

Remove cutlets to warmed serving platter and keep them hot. 
Heat remaining butter until darkened; add lemon juice. Stir and 
pour over cutlets. Garnish with parsley. Serves 4. 



VEAL CUTLET WITH MUSHROOMS 

NATUR SCHNITZEL MIT IMPORTIERTEN STEINPILZEN 

2 8-ounce cutlets 
2 teaspoon sail 



720 Luchow's German Cookbook 

Va teaspoon pepper 

5 tablespoons butter 

2 shallot, chopped fine 

No. 1 can imported Limousin mushrooms (Stein- 

pilzen) 

*/2 cup stock or bouillon 
1 tablespoon minced chives 

Pound cutlets thin; season lightly. Cook in 3 tablespoons butter 
until golden on both sides and done. 

Cook shallot in remaining butter until transparent. Drain 
mushrooms; slice; add to shallot. Cook 2 or 3 minutes. 

Remove cutlets to a warmed serving platter or 2 individual 
hot dishes. Add stock to sauce in veal pan; stir and cook 1 or 2 
minutes. Cover cutlets with shallot and mushroom mixture; pour 
gravy over all. Sprinkle with chopped chives. Serves 2. 

This Schnitzel is served with freshly boiled or rissole potatoes. 

FILLET OF YEAL WITH KIDNEY 

8 medallions of veal, 3 ounces each 

1 teaspoon salt 

V2 teaspoon pepper 

8 slices veal kidney 

8 tablespoons butter 

8 large mushroom caps 

2 cup stock or bouillon 

2 cup white wine 

Wipe veal with damp cloth; season. Saut6 with kidney in 6 table- 
spoons butter until well done. Saute mushroom caps in remaining 
butter, being careful not to break mushrooms. Remove veal to a 
warmed platter; place kidney slice on each piece of veal and top 
with mushroom cap. Stir stock and wine into pan in which meat 
cooked; cook rapidly to reduce and thicken; stir and pour over 
meat. Serves 4. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 121 

Serve with hot boiled potatoes, asparagus tips, and string 
beans. 



FILLET OF VEAL WITH KIDNEY EN CASSEROLE 

1 veal kidney 

1 pound veal cutlet 
T /2 teaspoon salt 
l /8 teaspoon pepper 

4 mushroom caps, sliced 
3 tablespoons butter 
*/4 cup sherry 

2 cups assorted hot cooked vegetables, such as peas 
and string beans t or small Uma beans and carrots 

Wash kidney; leave fat on. Slice, cover with cold salted water, 
and let stand 30 minutes. 

Slice veal in 2 cutlets; pound until 34 inch thick; season. 

Drain kidney. Saute kidney, veal, and mushrooms in butter 
until meats are tender and golden. Remove veal and kidney to a 
small casserole. Add sherry to pan; stir and let boil. Pour over 
meat. Garnish with mounds of hot cooked vegetables. Serves 2. 



VEAL KIDNEY ON TOAST 

2 veal kidneys 
2 teaspoon salt 
Vs teaspoon pepper 

2 tablespoons butter, melted 
2 small onion 

1 cup roast veal gravy, or 

2 cup Brown Sauce (see recipe) 

3 tablespoons chopped mushrooms 
1 tablespoon lemon juice 

2 teaspoon sugar 



122 Lttchow's German Cookbook 

*/4 cup red wine or madeira 
2 large pieces toast 

Wash kidneys. If fat is very thick, trim off some. Cut kidneys 
open and insert skewer in each to hold them flat. Season with 
salt and pepper and brush with butter. Broil 8 to 10 minutes on 
each side under moderate broiler heat, about 5 inches from heat. 

Heat onion with gravy or Brown Sauce. When steaming, add 
mushrooms, lemon juice, and sugar. Stir and cook gently 1 or 2 
minutes. Heat wine. 

Remove skewers from kidneys. Place 1 kidney on each piece 
of toast; dash with hot wine, then spoon hot Brown Sauce over. 
Serves 2. 



VEAL STEAK WITH PAPRIKA SAUCE 

PAPRIKA SCHNITZEL 

2 pounds veal steak 
1 teaspoon salt 

*/4 teaspoon pepper 

3 tablespoons butter 

1 cup hot Paprika Sauce (see recipe) 

Have steak cut l /2 inch thick. Wipe with damp cloth. Pound thin. 
Season with salt and pepper. Saute in hot butter slowly until 
golden and tender. Place on hot serving dish. Spoon hot Paprika 
Sauce over it. Serves 4. 



VEAL CHOPS NATURE 

NATUR SCHNITZEL 

4 veal chops 
1/2 teaspoon salt 
4 teaspoon pepper 
3 tablespoons butter 



How We Cook at Luchovfs 123 

Wipe chops with damp cloth; season. Brown in butter at high 
heat, about 15 minutes. Reduce heat; cook slowly until tender 
and done, another 5 to 8 minutes. Serves 4. 



MEAT BALLS 

WITH CAPER AND SARDELLEN SAUCE 

KONIGSBERGER KLOPS 

1V2 pounds raw veal 
V4 pound fat pork 
3 tablespoons butter 
1V2 hard rolls 

2 tablespoons grated onion 

V2 teaspoon grated lemon peel 

3 eggs, beaten 

V2 teaspoon pepper 

1 teaspoon salt 

1 tablespoon lemon juice 

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 

Chopped parsley 

1 2 /2 quarts stock or bouillon 

Grind meats very fine; mix with 2 tablespoons butter. Moisten 
xolls with water; when soft, squeeze water out and mix bread 
with meat. 

Cook onion in remaining butter until browned. Add to meat 
mixture with lemon peel, eggs, pepper, salt, lemon juice, Worces- 
tershire, and parsley. Mix thoroughly. Shape in 12 balls. 

Heat bouillon or stock to boiling; drop balls in and simmer, 
covered, 15 minutes. Remove from stock with slotted spoon to a 
warmed dish and make gravy. 

GRAVY 

4 or 5 tablespoons butter 
4 or 5 tablespoons flour 



124 Luchow's German Cookbook 

Ior2 small boneless sardines 
2 tablespoons capers 
2 tablespoons chopped parsley 
2 cup buttered crumbs 

Measure stock. For every 2 cups of stock, mix 2 tablespoons 
butter with 2 tablespoons flour. Stir into hot stock; cook and stir 
until smooth and boiling. 

Mash sardines with 1 tablespoon butter. Stir into gravy with 
capers and parsley. Reheat meat balls in gravy. To serve, cover 
top with buttered crumbs. Serves 4 or more. 

At Liichow's, noodles are usually served with the Klops, 



CALYES' BRAINS WITH SCRAMBLED EGGS 

GEBACKENES KALBSHIRN MIT RUHREI 

2 calves' brains 
2 tablespoons vinegar 
1V2 teaspoons salt 
5 peppercorns 
l /2 onion, sliced 

1 small carrot 

2 sprigs parsley 

3/2 teaspoon thyme 
1 bay leaf 

3 tablespoons butter 

4 eggs 

2 /f- teaspoon black pepper 
Parsley for garnish 

Wash, brains in cold water; drain; remove membrane and any 
blood. Cover with cold water and let stand several hours; change 
water frequently. Drain. Cover with water; add vinegar, 1 tea- 
spoon salt, peppercorns, onion, carrot, parsley v thyme, and bay 
leaf. Bring to a boil; lower heat and simmer 25 or 30 minutes. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 125 

Remove from heat. Let brains remain in cooking liquor until 
cool. 

Drain; cut each brain in 3 pieces. Heat 2 tablespoons butter 
until lightly browned. Saut6 brains 2 or 3 minutes; remove to hot 
dish. Add remaining butter to pan; scramble eggs; season with 
salt and pepper. Heap eggs on brains with parsley. Serves 4. 

Maria Jeritza is one of Luchow's favorite patrons. 
She always orders Viennese dishes, such as Schnitzel 
or Chicken Paprika; with her dinner she drinks 
champagne. 

Writer Bob Considine is also a Schnitzel fan,, but 
he drinks beer with the veal So does his frequent 
guest, Louella Parsons, on her visits to New York. 
Marlene Dietrich chooses Vienna Backhendl the de- 
licious oven-baked chicken. She drinks Moselle with 
it. 

Otto Harbach, president of ASCAP, which was 
founded at Luchow's, calls the Wiener Schnitzel his 
favorite of all Luchow meat dishes. 



BAKED CALVES 5 BRAINS 

GEBACKENES KALBSHIRN MIT GEMISCHTEM SALAT 

3 calves' brains 

2 tablespoons vinegar 
1 teaspoon salt 
5 peppercorns 
2 onion, sliced 
1 small carrot, sliced 

4 sprigs parsley 
2 teaspoon thyme 
1 bay leaf 

1 egg, beaten with 

2 tablespoons water 



126 Luchow's German Cookbook 

3 /4 cup flour 

3 tablespoons butter 

6 lemon slices 

Wash brains in cold water; remove membrane and any blood. 
Cover with cold water; let stand several hours, changing water 
frequently. 

Drain; put in saucepan with cold water to cover. Add vinegar, 
salt, peppercorns, onion, carrot, parsley, thyme, and bay leaf. 
Bring to a boil; lower heat and cook gently 25 to 30 minutes. 
Remove from heat; leave brains in cooking liquor until cool. 

Drain; dip in egg, then in flour. Place in baking pan; sprinkle 
with lemon juice and brown in moderate oven (375 F.) until 
golden. Serve with garnish of sliced lemon and any favorite 
mixed green salad. Serves 6. 



GOULASH 



GYPSY GOULASH WITH SPATZLE 

1 pound veal loin 

1 pound lamb shoulder, boned 

1 pound fresh pork shoulder, boned 

2 small onions 

2 tablespoons butter 

2 tablespoons flour 

IVi teaspoons salt 

l /2 teaspoon pepper 

2 teaspoon paprika 

1 cup water 

1 cup bouillon or stock 

Hot Cooked Noodles (see recipe) 

Wipe meat with damp cloth. Cut in 1^-inch pieces. 



How We Cook at LUchow's 127 

Slice onions. Heat butter in deep pot or Dutch oven and saute 
onions until transparent. Add meat and cook 10 minutes. 
Sprinkle with flour; stir. Add seasonings, water, and bouillon. 
Increase water if necessary to cover meat. Cover pot; bring to 
a boil and boil 5 minutes. Lower heat and let cook slowly IVz 
hours, or until meat is tender and liquid has cooked down to a 
thick sauce. Stir occasionally during cooking period. Serve gar- 
nished with Hot Cooked Noodles. Serves 6. 



CREAM VEAL GOULASH WITH RICE 

SAHNE GOULASCH MIT REIS 

2Y2 pounds breast of veal, or boned shoulder 
2 quarts water * f 

2 /4 medium-size onion : 

1V2 teaspoons salt 
4 peppercorns 

2 cloves 
V2 bay leaf 

3 tablespoons butter 
2 tablespoons flour 

2 cups stock pom veal kettle 
4 cup white wine 

1 cup cream 

2 egg yolks 

4 cups hot boiled rice 

Cut in serving-size pieces. Place in pot with water, onion, salt, 
peppercorns, cloves, and bay leaf. Cover; bring to a boil. Reduce 
heat and boil gently 1 hour. 

Keep meat and broth hot, but not boiling, while you make 
gravy. 

Melt butter; add flour and blend smoothly. Stir in broth and 
cook and stir until thickened. Add wine; stir and let boil 1 min- 
ute. Stir in cream and yolks. Remove from heat at once. Take 



128 Luchow's German Cookbook 

meat from remaining broth; add to cream gravy. Serve on large 
platter surrounded by hot rice. Serves 6. 



FILLET OF VEAL GOULASH A LA MINUTE WITH RICE 

1 pound veal filet 

2 tablespoons butter 

3/2 cup Paprika Sauce (see recipe) 
2 cups hot boiled rice 

Dice veal fine. Saut6 in butter until golden and cooked. Place in 
small casserole; cover with Paprika Sauce. Heat to bubbling in 
hot oven (400 F.)- Serve with hot rice. Serves 2 or 3. 



GOULASH WITH SAUERKRAUT 

SZEGEDINE GOULASCH 

2 pounds veal or beef cut in 1 2 -inch squares 
4 tablespoons beef suet or butter 
l*/2 cups sliced onions 
1 clove garlic, chopped 
1 teaspoon salt 
2 teaspoon pepper 

1 cup chopped ripe or canned tomatoes, or tomato 
puree 

1 cup sour cream 

2 teaspoons paprika 

2 teaspoons chopped caraway seeds 

1 pound (2 cups) sauerkraut 

2 or 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 

Saute meat in hot beef fat or butter until lightly browned. Add 
onions and cook 5 minutes. Add garlic, salt, pepper, tomatoes 
or tomato puree, and enough water barely to cover the mixture. 
Cook slowly until meat is nearly done and the sauce greatly 



How We Cook at Luchow's 129 

reduced, about 45 minutes. Stir frequently. When sauce is 
cooked down, add sour cream, paprika, and caraway seeds. Sim- 
mer l /2 hour longer. 

Heat sauerkraut. Arrange alternate layers of goulash and 
sauerkraut in a warmed serving dish. Sprinkle top with parsley. 
Serves 8 or more. 

Rachmaninoff, as is Toscanhri, was a frequent guest 
at the Steinway family table. The famous pianist's 
favorite dish was Goulash with Sauerkraut. It is an 
Austrian version of goulash, and popular with many 
of our patrons. 



SAUSAGE 



A mention of bratwurst to old-time managers and head- 
waiters at Liichow's calls forth smiles and the name of Victor 
Herbert. He was responsible for making Ltichow's a favorite 
restaurant with many musicians, composers, and singers of his 
day. There is a special corner to Victor Herbert's memory, where 
he and a small group of his colleagues (including John Golden 
and Ray Hubbell) founded the American Society of Composers, 
Authors and Publishers. A bronze plaque commemorating the 
event, February 1914, hangs in this corner. 

The composers lunched and dined often at the old Fourteenth 
Street restaurant, and cheese cake, German pancakes, and open 
apple cakes were all favorites. In those days the restaurant's 
baker was a Bavarian, and his celebrated recipes, which are 
still used here, were in great demand by Victor Herbert and his 
friends. 



130 Luchow's German Cookbook 



BLOOD SAUSAGE 

BLUTWURST 

3 pounds fresh fat pork belly 

1 pound fresh lean pork 

1 Spanish onion, chopped 

! 2 /2 teaspoons salt 

1 teaspoon pepper 

4 teaspoon powdered cloves 

% teaspoon powdered ginger 

1 pint fresh pork blood 

Pork casings, washed and dried 

Cut half of the fat pork and all lean pork in small pieces; add 
onion. Cook over moderate heat until fat is flowing; then lower 
heat and cook 45 minutes. Add seasonings; mix. Grind coarsely. 
Stir the fresh pork blood gradually into the meat mixture. 
Finely dice remaining fat pork and add; mix. Stuff into casings 
and tie. Cover with water. Bring to a boil; lower heat and sim- 
mer 25 minutes. Serves 8 or more. 



BRATWURST AND SAUERKRAUT CASSEROLE 

BRATWURST GASTRONOME 

4 Broiled Bratwurst {see recipe) 

2 cups sauerkraut 

4 mushroom caps 

1 tablespoon butter 

1 cup Brown Sauce (see recipe) 

Broil bratwurst lightly. Place sauerkraut in baking dish; top with 
bratwurst Chop mushrooms; saute 3 minutes in butter. Pour 
over wurst and sauerkraut. Top with Brown Sauce. Heat under 
broiler until bubbling. Serves 4. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 131 



PORK AND LIVER SAUSAGE 

LEBERWURST 

2 pounds fresh fat pork belly 

2 pound fresh pork shoulder 

1V2 pounds fresh pork liver, chopped 

2 onions, sliced 

1V2 teaspoons salt 

2 teaspoon pepper 

1 teaspoon dried or fresh marjoram 

2 teaspoon dried or fresh thyme 

Pork casings* washed and dried 

Cut meat in small pieces. Combine with liver, onion, salt, and 
pepper. Simmer 40 minutes. Add herbs; stir. Grind all coarsely. 
Stuff into casings and tie. Cover with water; bring to a boil and 
boil 6 minutes. Serves 6 or more. 



STRASSBOURG TRUFFLE SAUSAGE 

STRASSBURGER TRUFFEL LEBERWURST 

2 pounds capon livers 

Milk to cover 

1 medium-size onion, sliced 

2 pound chicken fat 

l l /2 pounds fat pork shoulder 

1 1 /2 teaspoons salt 

l /2 teaspoon pepper 

1 teaspoon dried or fresh marjoram 

4-ounce can truffles 

4 tablespoons cognac 

Pork casings, washed and dried 



132 Luchow's German Cookbook 

Rinse livers; drain. Cover with milk; place in covered dish in 
refrigerator overnight. 

Saute onion in chicken fat; let cook slowly 20 minutes. Cut 
pork in small pieces; add to onion. Cook slowly, covered, at 
simmering point, 30 minutes. Add seasonings and drained livers. 
Grind very fine. 

Cut truffles in small squares and add to mixture. Add cognac 
and mix well. Stuff into pork casings and tie. Barely cover with 
water. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer 30 minutes. 
Serves 6 or more. 



VEAL SAUSAGE 

BOCKWURST 

2 pounds veal 

lz pounds pork shoulder 
1 pound pork suet 
1 pint heavy cream 

3 tablespoons minced chives 
1 onion, minced 

l l /2 teaspoons salt 

2 teaspoon pepper 

4 teaspoon mace 

4 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

Sheep casings, washed and dried 

Grind veal and pork 3 times. Chop suet fine. Combine the meat 
with suet, cream, chives, onion, and seasonings. Mix smoothly. 
Stuff into sheep casings. Tie in 4- or 5-inch lengths. Cover with 
hot water. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer 15 mini* 
utes. Serves 10 or more. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 133 



PORK AND VEAL SAUSAGE 

BRATWURST 

2 pound fresh veal 

1 pound pork loin 

12 teaspoons salt 

1 teaspoon pepper 

2 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

2 teaspoon mace 

Pork casings 

Combine all ingredients; put through grinder 3 times. Mix with 
about 1 A cup water; fill pork casings. To serve, prepare: 

Broiled Bratwurst: Cover bratwurst with hot water. Bring to 
a boil and remove from heat immediately. Let stand in the hot 
water a few minutes until firm. Drain; dip bratwurst in milk. 
Place in broiler and cook until golden brown under low-to- 
moderate heat. Serves 4. 



GAME 



BRAISED LEG CANADIAN HARE, 

SOUR CREAM SAUCE 

HASENSCHLEGEL 

Hindquarters dressed hare 
Salt and pepper 
6 thin slices bacon 
1 cup butter, melted 
1V2 tablespoons flour 

1 cup sour cream 

2 tablespoons lemon juice 
1 cup hot water 



134 Luchow's German Cookbook 

Split hindquarters of hare lengthwise in 2 pieces. Rinse; drain; 
pat dry. Rub well with salt and pepper. Arrange in baking pan 
with bacon slices over hare. Cook in hot oven (475 F.) 25 
minutes. Lower heat to 350 F. Baste with melted butter and 
continue cooking 25 minutes. Sprinkle with flour; pour sour 
cream over all; add lemon juice and water. Cover and continue 
to cook about 20 minutes. Stir pan sauce occasionally. Test 
hare for tenderness. Let sauce thicken and cook down. Serves 

2 to 4. 

JUGGED HAKE 

HASENPFEFFER 

2 legs and saddle of hare cut in 2 pieces 
IVz teaspoons salt 

4 tablespoons butter 

1 medium-size onion 

4 cloves 

! 2 /2 cups port wine or claret 

1 tablespoon lemon juice 

12 peppercorns 

1 herb bouquet (parsley, thyme, bay leaf) 

3 cups hot stock or bouillon 

2 tablespoons butter 
1 tablespoon flour 
Red currant jelfy 

Rinse meat; pat dry; rub with salt. Saut6 in 3 tablespoons butter 
until brown, about 30 minutes. Place in casserole; add onion 
stuck with cloves, % cup wine, lemon juice, peppercorns, herbs, 
and stock. Cover and bake in moderate oven (350 F.) 2Vz to 

3 hours. 

About l /2 hour before serving, melt remaining tablespoon 
butter, blend with flour, and stir into hot mixture. Add remain- 
ing % cup wine and any needed seasoning. Cover casserole 
again; cook 30 minutes. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 135 

Place pieces of hare on hot serving dish; strain gravy over 
them. Serve with red currant jelly. Serves 4. 

Corey Ford's Luchow favorite is Hasenpfeffer. He 
likes an imported dark beer with his meal. 



LARDED SADDLE OF HARE 

GESPICKTER HASENRUCKEN 

Saddle of hare, 2 tolVz pounds 

Clove garlic 

3 tablespoons butter 

2 l /2 teaspoons salt 

l /2 teaspoon paprika 

4 teaspoon cayenne 

6 thin slices bacon or fat salt pork 

Sour Cream Sauce (see recipe) 

Orange slices 

Currant jelly 

Rinse meat; pat dry. Leave whole or cut in 4 pieces. Cut garlic 
and rub over all parts of saddle, then rub with butter. Sprinkle 
with salt, paprika, and cayenne. Place in roasting pan. Cover 
with bacon and salt pork. Roast uncovered in moderate oven 
(325 F.); allow 20 minutes per pound. When done, re- 
move to warmed serving dish. Pour Sour Cream Sauce over; 
garnish with orange slices. Serve with currant jelly. Serves 4. 

See recipe for Sour Cream Sauce and make it in the roasting 
pan after hare is removed. Strain; reheat. 

Wild rice is usually served with this game. 

This is a very popular dish, and during the season we may 
serve as many as 400 hare a day. 



136 LUchow's German Cookbook 

VENISON RAGOUT i LA LUCHOW'S 

REH RAGOUT 

4 or 5 pounds venison shoulder 
Vinegar and red wine to cover 
2 onions, sliced 
2 carrots, sliced 
6 peppercorns 

1 tablespoon salt 

2 bay leaves 

2 tablespoons beef suet or lard 

1 cup red wine 

2 or 3 tablespoons flour 

Wipe venison with wet cloth. Cut in l^-inch cubes. Place in 
enameled kettle or large crock; cover with a mixture of equal 
amounts of red wine and vinegar. Add onions, carrots, pepper- 
corns, salt, and bay leaves. Cover and let stand in refrigerator 
1 week. 

When ready to cook, drain meat. Melt suet or lard in very hot 
heavy roasting pan. Place venison in pan and brown quickly in 
very hot oven (475 F. to 500 K) 20 to 30 minutes. Add 
onions and carrots from the marinade (do not use marinade 
liquid) . Add 1 cup red wine and sufficient water to cover veni- 
son. Lower oven heat to moderate (350 F.), or just hot enough 
to simmer liquid in pan. Cook 2Vz to 3 hours. Remove any 
excess fat 

Place venison on hot serving dish. Stir enough flour into pan 
to make a smooth gravy; bring to a boil on top of range, stir, 
then strain over venison. Serves 8. 

When Theodore Roosevelt dined at Luchorfs he 
ordered game. One of his favorite dishes was venison, 
with which he usually had a bottle of Pommard. Veni- 
son was also a favorite of Sigmund Romberg. He liked 
Wurzburger beer with his roast. 




FILET MIGNON OF VENISON, HUNTER STYLE 

3 pounds venison steak 
1 teaspoon salt 

4 peppercorns 

1 medium-size onion t sliced 

1 carroty sliced 

4 sprigs parsley 

te teaspoon thyme 

1 bay leaf 

2 cup white wne 

l /2 cup olive oil 

Sour Cream Sauce 

Puree of Lentils (see recipe) 

Red Cabbage (see recipe) 

Have leg or loin of venison cut in steaks about % inch thick. 
Season with salt Place in bowl Mix peppercorns, onion, carrot, 
parsley, thyme, bay leaf, wine, and 5 tablespoons olive oil and 



138 Luchow's German Cookbook 

pour over steaks. Cover and let stand in refrigerator 24 hours. 
Turn meat in marinade from time to time. 

Remove meat from marinade; pat dry. Heat 3 tablespoons 
olive oil; cook venison 3 minutes on each side longer if meat 
is preferred well done. Remove meat to a warmed serving dish 
and keep it hot. Make sauce in same pan. Serves 4, 

SOUR CREAM SAUCE: 

2 tablespoons butter 

2 tablespoons flour 

2 shallots, chopped 

4 tablespoons white wine 

2 peppercorns, crushed fine 

1 cup sour cream 

Salt 

Pepper 

Juice 2 lemon 

Pour off excess fat from pan in which venison cooked. Melt 
butter in pan; stir flour and shallots smoothly in and mix well, 
stirring into them all the browned fat of the pan. Add wine, 
peppercorns gradually; mix well after each addition. Add cream 
and a little salt and pepper if needed. Cook and stir continually 
till thickened. Before serving, add lemon juice if desired. Pour 
over meat and serve at once. Serves 4. 
Puree of Lentils and Red Cabbage are served with this dish. 



VENISON STEW WITH POTATO DUMPLINGS 

REH RAGOUT 

3 pounds venison shoulder 

4 tablespoons butter 
4 tablespoons flour 

1 Vz teaspoons salt 

2 cups stock or bouillon 



How We Cook at Luchow's 139 

4 cups hot water 

1 small onion, sliced 
6 peppercorns 

2 cloves 

1 bay leaf 

Juice lemon 

1/2 cup red wine 

Potato Dumplings (see recipe) 

Rinse meat; wipe dry. Cut in serving-size pieces. Heat butter in 
deep kettle. Stir flour smoothly in and cook until browned. Add 
salt, stock, hot water; stir and mix well. Add onion, pepper- 
corns, cloves, bay leaf, and lemon juice. Bring to a boil and let 
boil 5 minutes. Add meat. Cover pot; boil gently l l /2 hours 
Add wine and mix with gravy in pot; continue cooking 15 mip 
utes. Serve with Potato Dumplings. Serves 6. 



CHEESE AND EGGS 



Cheeses are like wine in one respect: their age is most 

important to them. And, too, they complement each 

other. Our cheese assortment comes from the best American 

and foreign markets, purchased according to age and tasted to 

make sure they are just right before they go into the storerooms. 

Liichow's patrons find themselves in a cheese heaven when 
they consult the menu. There are such standards as Roquefort, 
old Cheddar with sherry, camembert, and both domestic and 
imported Swiss, as well as Liederkranz and Limburger, heralded 
by their heady fumes as they emerge into the dining room. These 
are offset by the mild cheeses, Philadelphia cream and pot 
cheese, delicious with Bar-le-Duc, or the imported lingonberries 
and Preisselbeeren. Imported bleu cheese has been added re- 
cently, and a stout Canadian oka. Both are favorites on the 
cold-cut platter and with salads. 

An order of cheese includes the diner's choice of English 
plain biscuits, American salty crackers, toasted rolls, or any- 
thing else the hungry man may desire. 

A favorite supper dish at Ltichow's is Welsh rarebit, or its 
more substantial version, a Golden Buck, served from a chafing 
dish at the table. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 141 

We offer nearly every variety of egg dish, but those most in 
demand are the familiar scrambles and omelets, because they 
go best with German and Austrian meat, game, and fowl 
specialties. 



OMELETS 

4 eggs 

4 teaspoon salt 

1 tablespoon butter 

Parsley 

Lightly beat eggs and salt with fork. Heat butter in frying pan 
until lightly browned; pour eggs into pan. Stir briskly with fork. 
Shake skillet to loosen bottom of omelet from pan. Fold omelet 
in half; tilt pan over warmed serving dish and slip omelet onto 
it. Garnish with parsley. Serves 2, 

Serve fried potatoes, asparagus tips, sauteed mushrooms, or 
peas with omelet. 

Spanish Omelet: Fold 2 or 3 tablespoons Creole Sauce in 
omelet; also add 1 or 2 tablespoons sauce to top. 

Omelet with Mushroom Sauce: Serve 2 or 3 tablespoons 
Mushroom Sauce over omelet. 

Mushroom Omelet: Saute 3 tablespoons sliced fresh mush- 
rooms in 1 teaspoon butter. Mix with eggs which have been 
slightly beaten. Garnish omelet with a few whole mushrooms 
sauteed in butter. 

Dessert Omelet: Make plain omelet Before folding, sprinkle 
generously with powdered sugar and add 1 or 2 tablespoons 
jam or marmalade; fold. While omelet is cooking, heat 3 table- 
spoons rum. Slip omelet onto warmed plate; sprinkle with sugar; 
pour hot rum over. Light rum, and spoon over omelet as it 
flames. Serve flaming. 



142 Luchow's German Cookbook 



SCRAMBLED EGGS 

6 eggs 

2 tablespoons cream 

Y2 teaspoon salt 

1 tablespoon butter 

4 slices buttered toast 

Parsley 

Beat eggs with cream and salt. Heat butter in frying pan and 
pour eggs in. Stir slowly; let cook until firm. Heap on slices of 
toast. Garnish with parsley. Serves 4. 

Variations: Serve crisply broiled bacon or saut^ed mush- 
rooms with eggs. Or add 2 tablespoons minced mushrooms to 
egg and cream mixture before cooking. 



SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH CHICKEN LIVERS 

Add 2 chopped, cooked chicken livers to each 2 scrambled 
eggs. Cook with eggs or use as garnish around scrambled eggs 
on toast. 



LUCHOW'S WELSH RAREBIT 

1 pound quick-melting yellow cheese 

1 tablespoon butter 

1 cup beer 

1 whole egg, beaten 

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 

1 teaspoon salt 

2 teaspoon paprika 

V* teaspoon dry mustard 

4 slices buttered toast 




Grate cheese. Melt butter in chafing-dish pan over hot water; 
add beer, stirring. When beer is warm, stir in cheese with a fork 
until cheese is melted. Beat in egg and seasonings. Spoon at once 
onto toast. Serves 4. 

Golden Buck: Fry or poach 4 eggs; place 1 on each serving 
of Rarebit. 



7 



DUMPLINGS AND NOODLES 



Dumplings are one of the particular glories of the Ger- 
man cuisine. We consider them, along with noodles, 
as an accompaniment without which many dishes on our menu 
would seem incomplete. 

Yet when one observes the Kartoffel Klosse, white and succu- 
lent, resting on the plate, there is a temptation to regard them 
as a course in themselves. In combination with the meats they 
complement, dumplings become part of a harmonious whole. In 
the recipes which follow, we show you the several variations it 
is possible to play upon the theme. 

Of noodles, it need only be said that of all the infinite varieties 
of goulash which exist in the world, our Goulash Spatzle, 
sauteed to a golden turn, is a tribute to the creative imagination 
of the chef who first transformed this common and lowly dish 
into a culinary delight. 



DUMPLINGS FOR BOILED BEEF 

2 cups sifted flour 
1 teaspoon salt 




4 teaspoons baking powder 
4 teaspoon pepper 
1 egg, beaten 

3 tablespoons shortening, melted 
Milk 

4 to 8 cups beef stock or broth 

Sift dry ingredients together. Add egg and shortening and beat 
smoothly. Add enough mi'lfr to make a fairly moist batter. 

Drop by spoonfuls into boiling beef kettle or into boiling 
broth or stock. Cover tightly; boil 15 to 18 minutes. Serves 6. 



146 Luchow's German Cookbook 



POTATO DUMPLINGS I 

KARTOFFEL KLOSSE 

3 pounds (9) medium-site potatoes 

3 egg yolks, beaten 

3 tablespoons cornstarch 

3 tablespoons raw farina or Cream of Wheat 
l /2 teaspoon pepper 

1V2 teaspoons salt 

1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

1 cup toasted or fried white bread cubes 
Flour 

1V2 quarts boiling salted water (1V2 teaspoons salt) 

Scrub potatoes. Boil in salted water until just soft enough to 
mash. Drain and mash smoothly. Add egg yolks, cornstarch, 
cereal, pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Beat well; shape into dump- 
lings; place few bread cubes in center of each. (It is a good idea 
to shape 1 dumpling first, and if it does not hold together while 
cooking, beat a little flour into dumpling mixture before shaping 
remainder.) 

Roll each dumpling lightly in flour. Cook in rapidly boiling 
salted water 15 to 20 minutes. Remove cooked dumplings from 
water; serve hot. Makes 12 or more dumplings, serves 6 to 8. 

NOTE: Any leftover dumplings may be cut in half, sauteed in 
butter, and used as garnish on a meat or salad platter. 

POTATO DUMPLINGS II 

KARTOFFEL KLOSSE 

2 pounds (6) raw potatoes 

4 slices white bread 
1 teaspoon salt 

l /4 teaspoon pepper 



How We Cook at Luchow's 147 

1 onion, grated 

1 teaspoon minced parsley 

2 eggs, well beaten 
l /4 cup flour 

1V2 quarts boiling salted water 

Wash, peel, and grate potatoes. Soak bread in a little cold 
water; squeeze out as much water as possible. Mix bread, salt, 
pepper, onions, and parsley. Add potatoes and eggs; mix well. 
Form into balls; roll lightly in flour; drop into salted boiling 
water (1 teaspoon salt to each quart water). Cover pot tightly; 
boil 15 minutes. Serve with sauerkraut, beef, or chicken. Serves 
4 or more. 

LIVER DUMPLINGS 

LEBER KLOSSE 

V2 pound fresh pork belly 

V2 pound beef kidney fat 

1 pound calves? liver 

1 onio^ sliced 

1 teaspoon butter 

12 slices white bread (without crusts) 

1 cup heavy cream 

2 eggs> beaten 
IVz teaspoons salt 
l /2 teaspoon pepper 

4 teaspoon grated nutmeg 
1 clove garlic, mashed 
Flour 

1 quart boiling stock or bouillon 

2 tablespoons crumbs 
4 tablespoons butter 

Grind pork, fat, and liver coarsely together. Cook onion lightly 
in butter; add to meat Soak bread in cream and eggs and add 



148 Luchow's German Cookbook 

all to meat mixture. Add seasonings and garlic. Beat smoothly. 
If too soft to hold shape on a spoon, beat a little flour into 
mixture. 

Drop from spoon into boiling stock and boil 20 minutes. Lift 
out on wire strainer or slotted spoon. Place on hot dish; sprinkle 
with crumbs browned in butter. Serves 8 or more. 



GOULASH SPATZLE 

1 pound (5% cups) sifted flour 

1 teaspoon salt 

*/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

4 eggs, beaten 

Milk 

2 quarts boiling salted water 
4 or 5 tablespoons butter 
V2 cup toasted bread crumbs 

Sift dry ingredients together. Beat eggs in. Add milk gradually 
to make heavy dough. Force through large-hole colander into 
kettle of rapidly boiling salted water. (Use 1 teaspoon salt to 1 
quart water.) Boil 6 to 8 minutes. 

Remove Sp'atzle with large strainer-spoon and put in colander. 
Dash with cold water; drain. Saute in butter until golden. Sprin- 
kle with crumbs and serve. Serves 6 or more. 



FRIED SPATZLE WITH EGGS 

Spatzle (See Goulash Spatzle) 
3 tablespoons butter 
2 eggs, beaten 

Saute half of the drained, freshly made Spatzle in butter. When 
lightly browned, add eggs, mix, and finish cooking like omelet. 
When bottom is brown, fold and serve. Serves 2 to 4. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 149 



LIVER DUMPLINGS AND SAUERKRAUT 

LEBER KLOSSE MIT SAUERKRAUT 

1 pound fresh beef 

1 pound fresh pork loin 
V2 pound fresh veal 

V2 pound fresh pork or calves' liver 

2 tablespoons chopped shallots 
2 cloves garlic, chopped 

2 eggs, beaten 

1 teaspoon salt 

V2 teaspoon pepper 

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 
Boiling water 

3 pounds sauerkraut, heated 
6 onions sliced thin, fried in 

2 tablespoons butter 

Grind beef, pork, veal, and liver together twice. Combine with 
shallots, garlic, eggs, and seasonings. Stir until mixture is well 
blended. Form into small balls. Cook in salted boiling water 10 
minutes. (Water must be boiling rapidly; add 1 teaspoon salt to 
each quart of water.) 

Lift liver balls out on slotted spoon. Serve on hot sauerkraut 
garnished with fried onions. Serves 6 or more. 



s 



SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS 



Sometimes a diner roams the precincts of our menu 
looking for a favorite German dish under the salad 
heading and finds it listed with the appetizers. That is one of the 
peculiarities of a German menu, which is admirable in most 
other respects. Cold meat, game, fowl in aspic, or a herring and 
potato mixture is often found under the salads, the appetizers, or 
both. 

For those who enjoy the modern tossed green and other light 
salads, we are happy to mix these dishes with the excellent dress- 
ings devised by our chefs. For those who have a special affection 
for German cuisine, there are the hearty potato salads, head let- 
tuce with Roquefort cheese, and cucumbers in sour cream or 
vinaigrette. 



CHICKEN SALAD 

4 cups coarsely cut cooked chicken 
2 cup sliced mushrooms 

1 teaspoon butter 

2 tablespoons sliced truffles 
2 cups mayonnaise 



How We Cook at Luchow's 151 

1 cup chopped celery 

1 cup heavy cream 

Crisp lettuce, ripe olives, tomato quarters* capers 

The pieces of cMcken should be 1 inch long or larger, Saut6 
mushrooms 2 or 3 minutes in butter; let cool. Combine with 
chicken; add truffles and enough mayonnaise to coat mixture. 
Put in glass or china bowl; let stand covered in refrigerator 1 
hour or longer. Add celery and mix well. Whip cream; combine 
with salad. Heap on crisp lettuce. Garnish with black olives, 
tomato quarters, and few capers. Serves 4 or more. 



KNOB CELERY SALAD 

1V2 pounds knob (root) celery 

Boiling salted water 

Mayonnaise 

1 teaspoon prepared mustard 

Sliced pickled beets 

Wash celery root; peel; cut in julienne pieces. Cover with boiling 
salted water. Boil until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain; let cool. 
Mix mayonnaise with mustard; combine with celery root. 
Garnish with sliced pickled beets. Serves 4. 

Variation: An old German recipe for this salad: 

5 tablespoons olive oil 

6 tablespoons vinegar 
1 teaspoon salt 

1 tablespoon sugar 
V4 teaspoon pepper 
V2 cup bouillon 

Mix all ingredients; pour over warm cooked celery root. Chill 1 
hour before serving. Serves 4. 



152 Luchow's German Cookbook 



LUCHOW'S COLE SLAW 

1 head white cabbage 

2 quarts boiling water 
2 onions, shredded fine 

Ior2 green peppers, shredded fine 
4 cup vinegar 

2 egg yolks, beaten 
1 teaspoon salt 

2 teaspoon pepper 

3 tablespoons olive oil 
1 cup sour cream 

Wash cabbage; slice or cut fine. Scald 5 minutes and driin well 
through colander; press out all water. Mix with onions, green 
peppers, and vinegar. Beat eggs, salt, and pepper together; add 
oil gradually, beating steadily. Pour over cabbage mixture; stir 
well. Pour sour cream over and stir until evenly mixed. Serves 
4 to 6. 



CUCUMBERS IN SOUR CREAM 

2 large cucumbers 
1 tablespoon salt 

1 cup thick sour cream 

2 tablespoons vinegar 

2 teaspoon black pepper 

2 teaspoon chopped chives or dill 

Wash cucumbers; scrape or peel; slice very thin. Place in glass or 
china bowl; sprinkle with salt. Let stand 1 hour or a little longer. 
Squeeze liquid out of cucumbers. Combine remaining ingre- 
dients and pour over cucumbers. Mix and serve. Serves 4. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 153 



CUCUMBER VINAIGRETTE SALAD 

2 large cucumbers 
1 tablespoon salt 

3 tablespoons olive oil 

4 tablespoons vinegar 

l /2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 
1 tablespoon minced parsley 

Wash cucumbers; scrape or peel; slice very thin. Place in glass 
or china bowl; sprinkle with salt. Let stand 1 hour or longer. 
Squeeze liquid out of cucumbers. Combine remaining ingredients. 
Pour over cucumbers. Mix and serve. Serves 4. 



HOT POTATO SALAD WITH BACON 

SPECK SALAT 

1 pound (3 medium) potatoes 

6 slices bacon, diced 

1 medium-size onion, diced 

l /2 cup vinegar 

l /2 cup stock or bouillon 

1 teaspoon salt 

l /4 teaspoon pepper 

1 teaspoon sugar 

1 egg yolk, beaten 

Scrub potatoes; rinse. Boil in jackets; let cool. Peel and cut in 
V^-inch slices. 

Cook bacon in hot pan until crisp. Add onion; stir and cook 
until transparent. Add vinegar, stock or bouillon, and season- 
ings. Stir; let come to a boil. Stir in egg; remove from heat and 
pour over potatoes. Serves 2 to 4. 



154 Luchow's German Cookbook 



LUCHOW'S POTATO SALAD 

2 pounds (6) potatoes 

2 cup beef or chicken stock 

2 onion, chopped 

6 tablespoons wine vinegar 

6 tablespoons olive oil 

1 teaspoon salt 

l /2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 

1 egg yolk 

Wash and scrub potatoes; boil in jackets until tender. Let cool 
only enough to peel and slice. Pour stock over to be absorbed 
by potatoes; add onion. Mix remaining ingredients; beat 
smoothly together. Pour over potatoes. Serve warm or chilled. 
Serves 4. 



POTATO SALAD WITH SOUR CREAM DRESSING 

2 pounds (6) potatoes 

Boiling water 

1 pint thick sour cream 

*A cup vinegar 

1 tablespoon sugar 

1 teaspoon salt 

V4 teaspoon pepper 

Paprika 

Scrub potatoes, rinse. Cover with boiling water; boil until tender, 
25 to 30 minutes. Let cool slightly. Slice in jackets. Combine 
remaining ingredients; pour over potatoes, mix. Sprinkle with 
paprika and serve. Serves 4 to 6. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 155 



LOBSTER SALAD 

Meat of 3 freshly boiled lobsters 

3 tablespoons vinegar 

4 tablespoons oil 
1 teaspoon salt 

4 teaspoon pepper 

1 cup mayonnaise 

Crisp curly lettuce 

Capers, radishes, black olives 

Cut lobster meat in good-size pieces. Place in glass or cMna 
bowl. Mix vinegar, oil, salt, and pepper and pour over meat 
Cover and let stand in refrigerator about 1 hour. Combine with 
mayonnaise; heap on lettuce. Garnish with few capers, radishes, 
and ripe olives. Serves 4 to 6. 



LUCHOW'S COLD HERB DRESSING 

2 hard-cooked eggs 

1 raw egg yolk 

*/2 cup olive oil 

1 tablespoon minced mixed herbs (parsley, 

oregano, thyme, chives) 
2 teaspoon dry mustard 
l l /2 teaspoons lemon juice or vinegar 
l /2 teaspoon salt 
l /4 teaspoon pepper 

Chop egg whites. Mash yolks and beat with raw yolk; add oil, a 
few drops at a time. Add herbs, mustard, lemon juice or vinegar, 
salt, and pepper. Beat well. Add chopped egg white last. Makes 
about % cup dressing. Serves 6. 



156 Luchow's German Cookbook 



LUCHOW'S ROQUEFORT DRESSING 

1 cup imported olive oil 

2 cup crumbled or diced imported Roquefort cheese 

2 /4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice 

Mix just before serving on tossed green salad. Serves 4. 



LUCHOW'S MAYONNAISE 



4 fresh egg yolks 

2 teaspoon salt 

*/8 teaspoon black pepper 

1 teaspoon dry mustard 

1 tablespoon wine vinegar 

2 cups fine olive oil 



Beat yolks with salt, pepper, and mustard. Add a few drops 
vinegar; beat smoothly. Add oil drop by drop, mixing well all the 
time. Add few drops vinegar; then alternate oil and vinegar until 
all is added and beaten smoothly together. Use at once. If stored 
in refrigerator, beat gently before serving. Makes 2 l /2, to 3 cups. 

LUCHOW'S TARTARE SAUCE 

1 quart Lilchow's Mayonnaise 

2 onion 

1 shallot 

*/2 bunch parsley t washed and dried 

1/2 bunch chives 

1 sour pickle 

1 sweet pickle 

1 oz. capers 

1 hard-boiled egg 

Chop all ingredients fine, and mix into the Mayonnaise. Season 
to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. 



VEGETABLES 



Buying vegetables for a restaurant is an art which 
might well awe the average housewife. Liichow's buyer 
must know how to choose among the wholesale arrays of farm 
produce displayed daily to restaurateurs, a task immensely com- 
plicated by the fact that a great many grades and qualities of 
every vegetable are available from day to day. Naturally, 
Liichow's man selects only the top quality in any vegetable. 

Asparagus must come from California or Pennsylvania, be- 
cause that vegetable grows most tender and flavorful in these two 
garden spots. String beans must be flat and green. Carrots must 
come from the West Coast, because they are sweeter. This is also 
true of iceberg lettuce. 

Large onions destined for salads, marinades, and ragouts in 
Liichow's kitchen come from New Mexico and Texas. Spinach 
from southern Virginia is greener and has a better flavor. Idaho 
potatoes are best for baking, but the season qualifies potatoes 
and sweet potatoes from several other sections of the country 
for our table. 

Sweet com, bought from nearby farms, must be very young 
and as fresh as possible. Dried vegetables like lentils, beans, and 
peas used hi soups are as carefully chosen for quality as their 
fresh brothers in the green department. 



158 Luchow's German Cookbook 



FRIED APPLES AND ONIONS 

6 large tart apples 

2 onions 

2 tablespoons butter or bacon drippings 

1 teaspoon salt 

2 teaspoon paprika 

2 cup sugar 

Wash and core apples. Cut in thick slices, unpeeled. 

Wash, peel, and slice onions. Heat butter or drippings in fry- 
ing pan. Spread layer of onions in hot fat. Cook slowly 5 min- 
utes. Season with salt and paprika. Cover with layer of apples; 
season with sugar and salt. Cover pan until steaming, then lower 
heat and cook 10 minutes, or until apples are nearly tender. Un- 
cover and continue cooking. Add additional butter or a little hot 
water if needed. Serves 6. 



RED CABBAGE 

1 head red cabbage, sliced thin 

2 onions, sliced 

2 apples, cored and sliced 
2 cup red currant jelly 

1 bay leaf 

Salt 

Dash of pepper 

4 pound butter, chicken, or bacon fat 

4 medium-size ham knuckles 

3 ounces vinegar 

Mix red cabbage with onions, apples, currant jelly, bay leaf, 
salt, and pepper. 




Put butter, chicken, or bacon fat in heavy casserole with tight- 
fitting cover; add red cabbage, ham knuckles, 1 A cup water. 
Bring to a boil and cook slowly 2 l /2 hours. Add vinegar at the 
last minute; remove bay leaf. Serves 6. 



160 Luchow's German Cookbook 



RED CABBAGE WITH APPLES 

ROT KRAUT MIT APFELN 

1 medium-size head red cabbage 

1 or 2 tart apples 

2 tablespoons chicken fat 

1 medium-size onion, sliced 

1 quart water 

2 cup light vinegar (red wine vinegar preferred) 
2 cup sugar 
2 teaspoon salt 
4 teaspoon pepper 

2 cloves 

1 bay leaf 
Juice 2 lemon 

2 or 3 tablespoons flour 

Wash cabbage, drain; cut as for Cole Slaw. 

Wash and core apples; peel and cut in small pieces. 

Heat chicken fat in large saucepan and saute onion and apples 
3 or 4 minutes. Add water, vinegar, sugar, salt, pepper, cloves, 
bay leaf, and lemon juice. Stir; bring to a boil. Add cabbage. 
Cover and let simmer 45 minutes, or until tender. Just before 
serving, sprinkle flour on top to absorb liquid. Serves 4. 

BRAISED CELERY 

12 tender stalks celery 

12 cups boiling stock or bouillon 

2 teaspoon salt 

4 teaspoon pepper 

2 tablespoons butter 

2 teaspoon flour 

Paprika 



How We Cook at Luchow's 161 

Wash and peel celery; cut in 3-inch lengths; remove all leaves. 
Cover with boiling stock. If bouillon is not spicy enough, add salt 
and pepper. Simmer covered until tender, about 20 minutes, 
Drain; reserve stock. 

Heat butter; stir flour in and cook until browned. Add stock; 
cook and stir until boiling. Add celery. Cook a few minutes to 
reduce liquid. Serves 4. 



BOILED CHESTNUTS 

1V2 pounds chestnuts 

2 cups boiling salted water or stock 

2 stalks celery, chopped 

2 tablespoons butter 

4 teaspoon pepper 

4 cup hot cream 

Paprika 

Cover chestnuts with cold water; bring to a boil. Boil 30 min- 
utes. Drain; plunge nuts in cold water. Loosen hulls with paring 
knife and rub skins from nuts with coarse towel. 

Cover nuts with boiling salted water or stock; add celery; cook 
until tender, 25 minutes. Leave chestnuts in stock to cool. 

To serve separately as vegetable, drain boiled chestnuts; mash 
with butter, pepper, and cream. Whip like mashed potatoes. 
Heap in serving dish; sprinkle lightly with paprika. Serves 4. 

To use as garnish on cooked greens or other dishes, drain 
boiled chestnuts; chop or cut coarsely. Combine with cooked 
greens or use on top as garnish. (See Green Kale with Chest- 
nuts.) 

SAVORY GREEN BEANS 

2 pounds fresh green beans 

2 tablespoons butter or drippings 



162 Liichow's German Cookbook 

3 cups bouillon or stock 
1 tablespoon flour 
1 teaspoon sugar 

1 teaspoon salt 

2 tablespoons vinegar 

1 small piece summer savory 
1 tablespoon chopped parsley 

Wash beans; break off tips and remove strings; cut or break in 
4 pieces each. Place in saucepan with butter or drippings and 
bouillon; cook covered 25 minutes, or until tender. Add more 
bouillon if necessary. When nearly done, sprinkle beans with 
flour, sugar, salt, and vinegar. Cook uncovered a few minutes 
more. Sprinkle with herbs and serve. Serves 6. 



GREEN KALE WITH CHESTNUTS 

3 pounds fresh kale 

2 quarts boiling salted water 

6 tablespoons butter 

2 tablespoons flour 

2 cups bouillon 

1 teaspoon salt 

2 teaspoon pepper 

l /4 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

V2 teaspoon paprika 

2 cup sweet cream 

1 cup chopped Boiled Chestnuts (see recipe) 

Wash kale several times; drain. Cut rib from leaves; wash again; 
drain. Cover with boiling salted water and cook 30 minutes, or 
until tender. Drain in colander. Chop fine or rub through colan- 
der. 

Melt butter; stir flour into it; add bouillon, salt, pepper, nut- 
meg, and paprika. Cook and stir until boiling. Add kale; cook 



How We Cook at Luchow's 163 

slowly 20 minutes, or until little liquid remains. Stir cream and 
chestnuts in; heat 1 or 2 minutes. Or use chestnuts on top as 
garnish. Serves 6. 



PUREE OF LENTILS 

2 cups dried lentils 

4 cups bouillon or stock 

1 slice smoked sausage or salt pork 

2 sprigs parsley 

1 or 2 small onions t sliced 
1 clove garlic 

1 bay leaf 

2 cloves 

2 tablespoons butter 
l /4 cup heavy cream 
2 teaspoon salt 
54 teaspoon pepper 

Wash lentils; drain. Cover with cold water; let soak overnight. 
Drain. Cover with bouillon or stock; add sausage or salt pork. 
Place parsley, onions, garlic, bay leaf, and cloves in loose cheese- 
cloth bag and add to kettle. Bring slowly to a boil; lower heat 
and cook slowly until lentils are tender, about l l /2 hours. Re- 
move herb bag after first hour of cooking. Add boiling water or 
stock if lentils cook too quickly. 

When lentils are done, put through fine sieve or strainer. Set 
over heat and whip butter, cream, and seasonings into the puree. 
Serves 4. 



NEW LIMA BEANS IN CREAM 

1 quart shelled young lima beans 
Boiling water 



164 Liichow's German Cookbook 

1 slice bacon, diced 

1 teaspoon salt 

1 cup heavy cream 

l l /2 tablespoons lemon juice 

1 tablespoon minced parsley 

Wash beans; drain. Barely cover with boiling water. Add bacon. 
Cover beans and cook 15 minutes. Add salt and cook uncovered 
over higher heat until most of water evaporates. Add cream; stir 
lemon juice and parsley in and serve when steaming hot. Do not 
let boil after cream is added. Serves 4. 



MUSHROOMS IN SOUR CREAM 

2 pounds fresh mushrooms 

! /4 pound butter 

1 medium-size onion, peeled 

1 tablespoon flour 

1 cup sour cream 

2 teaspoon meat extract 

1 teaspoon salt 

2 /2 teaspoon pepper 

1 tablespoon minced parsley 

Wash mushrooms; break off stems; peel any heavy caps; slice in 
quarters. Saute in hot butter a few minutes. Add onion; cover 
pan and cook gently 15 to 20 minutes. Remove onion. Sprinkle 
flour on mushrooms; stir lightly, Add cream, meat extract, salt, 
and pepper; mix. Heat a few itiinutes, but do not let boil. Sprin- 
kle with parsley and serve. Serves 6. 



NEW PEAS WITH ONIONS, FINES HERBES 

1 pound fresh young peas 
6 young scallions 



How We Cook at Luc how's 165 

2 teaspoon salt 
Dash of pepper 

1 tablespoon sugar 

2 tablespoons butter 
1 teaspoon flour 

%. cup boiling water 

1 tablespoon mixed parsley, tarragon, chives, and 
chervil 

Wash and shell peas. Wash scallions; cut white part in 1-inch 
lengths. Combine with peas in small casserole. Add salt, pepper, 
and sugar. Mix butter and flour and add water. Cover and cook 
in moderate oven (375 F.) until peas are tender, about 30 min- 
utes. Stir herbs into peas. Serve from casserole. Serves 3 or 4. 



COTTAGE FRIED POTATOES 

5 raw potatoes 

2 tablespoons bacon drippings or other fat 

1 teaspoon salt 

V4 teaspoon black pepper 

Slice potatoes; fry in hot fat. Season with salt and pepper. 
Serves 4, 



GERMAN FRIED POTATOES 

4 or 5 cold boiled potatoes 
Vz tablespoon salt 
2 tablespoons butter 
2 teaspoon paprika 

Slice potatoes; season with salt. Saute in butter until light brown. 
Turn frequently with spatula or pancake turner. Sprinkle with 
paprika. Serves 4. 



166 Luchow's German Cookbook 



LYONNAISE POTATOES 

4 or 5 boiled potatoes 

2 or 3 tablespoons butter 

2 /2 onion, minced 

2 tablespoons minced parsley 

Peel and slice potatoes thin. Saute in butter slowly until golden. 
Remove potatoes, leaving butter in pan. Add onion and cook 
3 or 4 minutes. Return potatoes to pan and mix gently with 
onion; cook 1 or 2 minutes more. Serve sprinkled with parsley. 
Serves 3 or 4. 



BETWEEN-THE-ACTS POTATOES 

5 raw potatoes 
Deep fat 
Salt 

Peel and cut potatoes 3 inches long, 1 A inch thick. Wash and 
dry. Fry in deep fat until cooked and golden brown. Season with 
salt. Serves 5. 



POTATOES AU GRATIN 

2 cups hot mashed potatoes 

*/4 cup grated cheese 

2 tablespoons melted butter 

Spread potatoes in lightly buttered au gratin dish (shallow cas- 
serole or baking dish). Sprinkle generously with cheese and 
melted butter. Place in hot oven (400 F.) or under moderate 
broiler heat until golden brown. Serves 4. 

Variation: Dice cold boiled potatoes fine. Boil in cream 6 min- 



How We Cook at Luchow's 167 

utes. Season well with salt and pepper. Pour into au gratin dish. 
Sprinkle top with grated cheese. Brown in hot oven (400 F.) 
until golden and crusty. 



POTATOES PARISBENNE 

8 large new potatoes 

Boiling salted water 

2 tablespoons butter or bacon drippings 

Salt 

Paprika 

Wash potatoes; peel. Cover with cold water and let stand 1 hour. 
Drain; cut into balls with French cutter. Cover with boiling 
salted water and cook until almost tender, 25 minutes. Drain. 

Melt butter or drippings in frying pan; cook potatoes until 
light brown. Season with salt and paprika. Place in shallow pan 
in hot oven (400 F.) to crisp and brown. Add more butter if 
needed. Serves 6. 

LUCHOW'S POTATO PANCAKES 

KARTOFFEL PFANNKUCHEN 

2 pounds (6) medium-size potatoes 

*/2 medium-size onion, grated 

2 tablespoons flour 

2 eggs, beaten 

1V2 teaspoons salt 

1/4 teaspoon pepper 

4 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

2 tablespoons minced parsley 

3 or 4 tablespoons butter 

4 strips crisply cooked bacon 

Wash, and peel potatoes. Cover with cold water; drain. Grate at 
once and drain water that collects on grated potatoes. Add onion 



168 Luchow's German Cookbook 

and mix. Add flour, eggs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and parsley. Mix 
thoroughly. 

Heat butter on griddle or in large frying pan. Place large 
spoonfuls of potato mixture in hot pan; bake 3 or 4 pancakes at 
one time until brown and crisp on each side, turning with pan- 
cake turner. Place on hot dish. Garnish with crisp bacon. 
Serves 6. 

Serve stewed apples with these pancakes. 

BAKED SAUERKRAUT WITH APPLES 

WEIN KRAUT 

1 quart sauerkraut 
V* cup sliced onion 

2 tablespoons butter or bacon drippings 
2 or 3 medium-size apples 

1Y2 cups white wine 
2 cup stock or bouillon 
1 teaspoon brown sugar 
1 teaspoon celery seed 

Drain kraut slightly. Cook onion in butter or drippings until 
transparent. Add sauerkraut; stir; cook slowly. 

Wash, peel, and core apples; dice fruit and add to sauerkraut. 
Add wine and enough stock or bouillon to cover. Cook slowly, 
uncovered, 30 minutes. Add sugar and celery seed; cover and 
finish cooking in moderate oven (325 F.) 30 minutes longer. 
Serves 4 to 6. 



BOILED TURNIPS 

8 medium-size white turnips 
1 quart boiling salted water 
3 tablespoons butter 
1 tablespoon flour 



How We Cook at Ltichow's 169 

2 cup bouillon 
2 teaspoon salt 

Wash, peel, and quarter or slice turnips. Barely cover with salted 
boiling water and cook uncovered until tender, 20 minutes or 
longer. Let water cook down. Add butter; sprinkle flour over 
turnips. Add bouillon and seasonings. Cook 15 minutes. Serves 4. 
Variation: Prepare yellow turnips the same way. When done, 
mash turnips; beat butter and seasonings into them. Sprinkle 
with few grains black pepper. 



WILD RICE WITH RAISINS 

1 cup mid rice 
2 cup minced onion 
1 tablespoon butter 
3 cups boiling stock 
2 cup seedless raisins 
Boiling water 

Wash rice; drain; let dry. Saute onion in butter; stir rice into it; 
cook 3 or 4 minutes. Add stock. Cover; cook slowly, without 
stirring, 30 minutes, or until rice is tender and stock absorbed. 

Cover raisins with boiling water; let stand until plump. Drain; 
stk into rice. Serves 4, 



LEDPZIGER ALLERLEI 

4 pound fresh lima beans 

4 pound fresh string beans, cut 

4 pound fresh peas 

1 small head cauliflower cut in flowerets 

4 pound mushrooms (Steinpilze), sliced 

4 pound sweet butter 



170 Luchow's German Cookbook 

2 tablespoons flour 

1 cup fresh cream 
Salt, pepper, nutmeg 

2 egg yolks 

Cook all the fresh vegetables; drain; keep hot. Melt butter; blend 
in flour; add heated cream; let simmer 5 minutes. Beat the egg 
yolks with tablespoon of cream and add to the sauce. Pour sauce 
over vegetables and mix altogether, including seasoning. 
Serves 4. 



10. 



SAUCES 



Sauces are at once the triumph and despair of those 

who cook, whether in restaurants or at home. Perhaps 

the most difficult to prepare of all the items in the kitchen's 

array, they are, at their best, the final wave of the wand which 

casts an enchantment on whatever comes out of pan or kettle. 

At Liichow's we prepare the best from the French and Ger- 
man cuisines, which between them have produced most of the 
world's fine sauces. Here one may experience the rich savor of a 
brown sauce on beef, the opulent and herb-flavored blessing that 
a burgundy sauce gives to ham, the creamy golden texture of 
Hollandaise Sauce served with fish, and our own Vinaigrette 
Sauce which, with mixed greens, head cheese, and chopped hard- 
cooked egg, makes a very special appetizer. 

A meal interlaced with the subtle flavoring of sauces is a testi- 
monial to the artistry of any kitchen. At Liichow's the testi- 
monial begins with the tangy crimson Cocktail Sauce on your 
shrimp, and continues to the delicious Preisselbeeren which is 
served with the traditional German pancake. 



172 Luchow's German Cookbook 



BECHAMEL SAUCE 

l /3 cup butter 

l /2 medium-size oniony minced 

Vs cup flour 

3 cups hot milk 

1 teaspoon salt 

l /4 teaspoon pepper 

2 sprigs parsley 

l /4 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

Melt butter in saucepan; add onion and cook until very light 
brown. Stir flour in smoothly; cook a few minutes longer. Gradu- 
ally add milk and seasonings and stir well. Cook slowly 25 to 30 
minutes, stirring gently but steadily until sauce is thick and 
smooth. If sauce must stand, stir occasionally to prevent film 
from forming on top. Makes about 3 cups sauce. 

CREAM SAUCE 

2 cups Bechamel Sauce (see recipe) 
1 cup top milk or cream 
l /2 tablespoon lemon juice 

Cook Bechamel Sauce until reduced to about 1 cup. Add milk 
or cream and lemon juice. Cook, stirring constantly, until ready 
to boil; remove from heat. Makes about 3 cups. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE 

l l /2 cups Cream Sauce (see recipe) 

2 cup sliced fresh or canned mushrooms 

1 tablespoon butter 

Make Cream Sauce. Saute mushrooms in butter 5 minutes. Add 
to Cream Sauce. Mix and serve. Makes about 2 cups sauce. 




MUSTARD SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH 

1 teaspoon English mustard 

3 tablespoons white wine 

1 cup Cream Sauce {see recipe) 

Mix mustard and wine smoothly together, stir into hot Cream 
Sauce. Serve on broiled fish. Makes about 1 cup; serves 4 or 
more. 



174 Luchow's German Cookbook 



BROWN SAUCE 

3 cup beef suet 

1 onion, chopped 

1 carrot, diced 

3 cup flour 

1 2 cups stock or bouillon 

1 cup canned tomatoes (3 fresh tomatoes) 
12 cups red wine 

2 sprigs parsley 

1 stalk celery, chopped 

1 bay leaf 

4 teaspoon thyme 

1 clove garlic 

2 teaspoon salt 

3 or 4 peppercorns 

Melt suet; cook onion and carrot 3 or 4 minutes. Add flour; stir 
and cook until browned. Add stock, tomatoes, and wine. Bring 
to a boil, stirring continually until flour and fat are well mixed 
with liquid. Add herbs, garlic, salt, and peppercorns; reduce heat 
and cook gently. Skim when necessary. After 2 hours the sauce 
should be well cooked down. Strain; use as called for in recipes. 
Makes 2 cups. 



BURGUNDY SAUCE FOR HAM 

1 small onion, chopped fine 

1 cup burgundy wine 

1 tablespoon currant jelly 

1 bay leaf 

2 teaspoon thyme 

1 teaspoon minced parsley 



How We Cook at Luchow's 175 

2 cup Brown Sauce (see recipe) 
1 tablespoon butter 

Heat onion, wine, currant jelly, and herbs together. Cook 
slowly until liquid is reduced a little. Add Brown Sauce; 
boil until slightly thickened. Strain; add butter. Makes about 1 1 A 
cups. 



CAPER SAUCE 

3 tablespoons butter 

3 tablespoons flour 

2 /2 teaspoon salt 

*/2 teaspoon Worcestershire or Al sauce 

2 cups stock or bouillon 

1 tablespoon capers 

Melt butter; stir flour smoothly into it. Add salt and Worcester- 
shire or Al sauce. Slowly stirring, add stock or bouillon. When 
smooth and thickened, add capers. Serve on Hash a la Liibeck 
or in other recipes as directed. Makes a little more than 2 cups; 
serves 4 to 6. 

Anchovy Cream Sauce: Substitute chopped anchovy fillets for 
capers. 



COCKTAIL SAUCE 

FOR SHRIMPS, CRAB MEAT, ETC, 

1 cup chili sauce 

1 cup ketchup 

16 cup freshly grated horseradish 

Dash of Tabasco sauce 

Mix well together. Serve on chilled sea food. Makes 2V2 cups; 
serves 12 or more. 



176 Luchow's German Cookbook 



DILL SAUCE A LA CHARLES PICKEL 

FOR FISH 

2 egg yolks 

1 ounce wine vinegar 

1 ounce white wine 

Seasonings (very little), consisting of salt, pepper, 

English mustard, ground whole spice, lemon juice t 

sugar 

6 ounces olive oil 
Chopped dill 

Beat egg yolks with vinegar, wine, and seasonings. Add the oil 
very slowly. Finish with chopped fresh dill. Makes about 1 cup. 



LUCHOW'S VINAIGRETTE SAUCE 

3 ounces calf's brain (2 brain) 

Vs cup vinegar 

1/2 teaspoon salt 

16 teaspoon pepper 

1 tablespoon English mustard 

1 tablespoon sugar 
2 cup salad oil 

V4 cup finely chopped chives, onions, and pickles 

2 hard-cooked eggs, chopped fine 

Wash calf's brain in cold water; drain. Remove arteries and 
membranes; cover with cold water; let stand 1 hour. Drain. 
Place in kettle; cover with water containing 2 tablespoon vin- 
egar. Cook slowly 15 to 20 minutes; drain. Pour cold water over 
brain; drain; press through sieve. 

Mix dry ingredients and season brain. Stir oil and remaining 
vinegar alternately into the mixture until consistency is smooth 



How We Cook at Liichow's 177 

and like mayonnaise. Beat mixed greens into it. Spoon onto 
sliced head cheese; sprinkle liberally with chopped hard-cooked 
egg. Serve as appetizer. Serves 8. 



HOLLANDAISE SAUCE 

3 egg yolks 

1 tablespoon water 

V2 pound butter, melted 

V2 teaspoon salt 

1 tablespoon hot water 

1 tablespoon lemon juice 

Place eggs and water in upper part of double boiler over hot, 
but not boiling, water. Do not let water boil; keep it just below 
that temperature. Stir eggs and water briskly with a wire whip 
until creamy. Add butter slowly and continue to stir steadily. 
Be sure butter is smoothly combined after each addition. Add 
1 tablespoon hot water to make sauce lighter. 

When the sauce is to be served with fish, add lemon juice 
with the hot water. Makes about 2 cups. 



HORSERADISH SAUCE 

3 tablespoons butter 

3 tablespoons flour 

1 cup hot milk 

V2 cup beef stock 

l /4 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

1 tablespoon white vinegar 

2 teaspoon salt 

Vi teaspoon white pepper 

*/2 cup freshly grated horseradish 

Melt butter; stir flour smoothly into it. Add hot milk and stock; 



178 Luchow's German Cookbook 

stir and cook until well blended. Add nutmeg, vinegar, salt, and 
pepper; mix well. Stir continually until smooth and thickened. 
Strain through sieve; beat horseradish in just before serving. 
Makes about 1% cups; serves 8 to 10. 

MUSTARD SAUCE 

2 onion, chopped 

V4 pound butter 

2 tablespoons flour 

2 cup white wine 

2 cups beef or veal broth or stock 

2 teaspoons English mustard 

Cook onion in butter a few minutes. Blend in flour and stir until 
evenly mixed. Add wine and stock and stir until smooth. Sim- 
mer 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add mustard and stir until 
smoothly mixed. Makes about 3 cups sauce, 

PAPRIKA SAUCE 

2 shallots, chopped 
1 clove garlic, chopped 

1 tablespoon butter 

2 tablespoons flour 

1 tablespoon paprika 

2 cups stock or bouillon 
1/2 cup dry white wine 

2 tablespoons sour cream 
Lemon juice (optional) 

Saute shallots and garlic in butter 5 minutes. Stir flour and 
paprika in smoothly; blend well. Add stock and wine, stirring 
continually. Cook over low heat, stirring, until thickened, about 
15 minutes. Add sour cream. If not sufficiently tart, add lemon 
juice. Mix. Makes 2 l /2 cups. 



How We Cook at Liichow's 179 



SOUR CREAM SAUCE 

2 shallots, chopped 

4 tablespoons butter 

2 tablespoons flour 

2 cups stock or bouillon 

2 cup white wine 

2 tablespoons sour cream 

Lemon juice (optional) 

Saute shallots in butter 5 minutes; stir flour in smoothly; blend 
well. Add stock and wine, stirring continually. Cook over low 
heat and stir until thickened, about 15 minutes. Add sour cream. 
If not sufficiently tart, add lemon juice. Mix. Serve with Bro- 
chette of Pork Tenderloin and other dishes. Makes about 2Vz 
cups. 

TOMATO SAUCE 

2 tablespoons butter 
1 carrot, chopped 

1 small onion, chopped 
4 tablespoons flour 

3 or 4 fresh tomatoes, peeled and chopped 
2 green pepper, chopped 

1 2 cups stock or bouillon 

V2 teaspoon salt 

V4 teaspoon pepper 

1 teaspoon sugar 

1 or 2 cloves garlic 

l /2 teaspoon thyme 

1 bay leaf, crumbled 

Melt butter; cook carrot and onion until tender. Stir flour in; 
mix smoothly. Stir and cook until lightly browned. Add toma- 



180 Luchow's German Cookbook 

toes, green pepper, stock, salt, pepper, sugar, and garlic. Boil, 
stirring until slightly thickened. Add thyme and bay leaf. Lower 
heat and cook slowly, about 30 minutes. Strain. Reheat and 
boil 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Makes about 1% cups. 



VELOUTE SAUCE 

Vs cup butter 

Vs cup flour 

3 cups stock or bouillon 

*/2 teaspoon salt 

2 or 3 peppercorns 

1 sprig parsley, minced 

*/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

Melt butter. Stir flour slowly into it; blend until smooth but not 
brown. Add stock and cook, stirring continually until flour and 
butter are smoothly blended with stock. Add salt, peppercorns, 
and parsley. Reduce heat and cook slowly until reduced to about 
2 cups of sauce. Strain. Use as called for in recipes. Makes about 
2 cups. 



DESSERT SAUCES 

CUSTARD SAUCE 

3 or 4 egg yolks 
l /4 cup sugar 
Vs teaspoon salt 
2 cups milk 
1 teaspoon sherry 

Beat yolks lightly in upper part of double boiler. Add sugar and 
salt; mix. Scald milk; add slowly to yolks, stirring continually. 



How We Cook at Lttchow's 181 

Cook over hot water until custard begins to thicken. Do not boil. 
Remove from hot water; let cool. Add sherry; mix. Chill thor- 
oughly. Makes about 2 1 A cups. 



HOT CHOCOLATE SAUCE FOR GERMAN PANCAKES 

1V2 cups sugar 

3 tablespoons butter 

4 ounces (squares) chocolate, melted 
1 cup cream 

l /4 cup sherry 
1 teaspoon vanilla 

Mix sugar, butter, chocolate, and cream in saucepan; stir until 

dissolved. Heat and let boil without stirring 7 mi mites. Stir in 

sherry and vanilla. Remove from heat; set pan over hot water 

and keep sauce warm until ready to serve. Makes about 2 cups. 

Philip Liebmann of Rheingold fame likes the 

German Pancake with Chocolate Sauce. 



PREISSELBEEREN SAUCE 

2 quarts fresh Preissel berries 

1 pound sugar 

Peel of l /4 lemon 

Peel of 4 orange 

1 small stick cinnamon (optional) 

Clean berries; add sugar, lemon and orange peels, and cinna- 
mon (optional). Do not add water. Simmer until berries are 
tender. Preissel berries can be obtained fresh or preserved in 
water in jars. (These berries are red, a little smaller than cran- 
berries and similar in taste and size to lingonberries.) 



11. 




DESSERTS 



Even a Liichow meal must end at last, but this sadness 
can be considerably assuaged with a Liichow dessert. 
It would be idle to pretend that any one of these delights will do 
anything at all for dieters. I can only recommend that such un- 
fortunates skip everything else but the entree. 

For one should approach the end of the menu with a clear 
conscience and the prospect of new gustatory enjoyment among 
the crumb cakes, apple cakes, Torten, pies, and the vast German 
Pancake rolled about a luscious filling. 

Possibly, with the imminence of satiety, it might be as well to 
order something lighter, say our Cheese Cake, or the Linzer 
Torte, Rote Griitze, with its whipped cream topping, or Mince 
or Pumpkin Pie, or Strudel. 

At luncheon, desserts most often chosen are Schnecken, the 
various kinds of coffee cake, rice pudding, and apple cake. 

But in time you must really try the German Pancake, which 
is a drama played at your table by two characters, the chef and 
the waiter, or captain. It is the climax of the Liichow cuisine, 
and let us hear no more talk of waistlines. Waiter, please bring 
us a little champagne, and ask the orchestra to play "The Blue 
Danube"! 



How We Cook at Luchow's 183 
APPLE CRUMB CAKE 

APFEL STREUSELKUCHEN 

2 cup milk 

1 cake compressed yeast 

2 tablespoons sugar 

1 teaspoon salt 

2 eggs, well beaten 
Grated peel 1 lemon 
2V2 cups sifted flour 

6 tablespoons melted shortening or butter 
2 or 3 ripe apples 

CRUMBS OR STREUSEL: 

5 ounces almond paste 
5 ounces sugar 
5 ounces butter 
5 ounces flour 
Dash of vanilla 

Scald milk; let cool to lukewarm. Dissolve yeast in milk; add 
sugar and salt and stir. Let stand 5 minutes. Add eggs, lemon 
peel, and a little flour; mix. Add remaining flour alternately with 
shortening or butter. Beat well while mixing. 

Turn out on lightly floured board. Let stand 10 minutes, then 
knead well until smooth and elastic. Put dough in greased bowl; 
cover loosely with folded towel. Let rise in warm, not hot, place. 

When double in bulk, punch dough down, place on lightly 
floured board, and roll out lightly and quickly to about 1 A inch 
thickness. Place on floured or greased baking sheet. Cover 
lightly and let rise again till Vz inch thick. 

Wash, peel, core apples; slice thin; spread over top of dough. 

For Streusel, combine almond paste and sugar; blend well. 
Add remaining ingredients; blend completely. Place in refriger- 
ator to chill. To form crumbs, grate this chilled mixture. 

Sprinkle crumbs thickly over the sliced apples. Bake in mod- 
erate oven (350 F.) 35 to 45 minutes. Serves 8. 



184 LUchow's German Cookbook 



APPLE PANCAKES 

APFEL PFANNKUCHEN 

German Pancake batter (see recipe) 

2 or 3 ripe apples 

2 tablespoons butter 

Sugar 

Powdered cinnamon 

Make pancake batter as in German Pancake recipe. 

Wash apples; peel, core, and slice thin. 

Melt enough butter in large frying pan to coat bottom and 
sides; pour very thin coating of batter in pan (2 or 3 table- 
spoons). Tilt pan to spread batter; let bake about 1 minute. 

Cover pancake with apples. Pour 2 or 3 tablespoons batter 
over apples. Turn cake with wide pancake turner when browned 
on bottom; brown other side. Fold over like omelet or roll 
loosely. Cut in half. Dash with sugar and cinnamon. Serves 2. 

At Luchow's an order of a German Pancake for 
dessert for two calls for a spectacular performance on 
the part of the chef and the waiter, or captain, who is 
in charge of your table. The pancake, when borne 
from the kitchen, measures about a foot and a half in 
diameter. It is delicately browned, hot, ready for the 
ministrations of the captain. 

Working swiftly at a serving table at your elbow, he 
sprinkles the top of the pancake thickly with sugar and 
powdered cinnamon from huge glass shakers. He 
quickly squeezes the juice of lemon over this and then 
spreads the famous imported Preisselbeeren (lingon- 
berries) or huckleberries, cooked apples, or chocolate 
sauce thickly over the sugared surface and rolls the 
cake like a jelly roll. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 185 

Next he cuts the roll in 2 pieces, sprinkles them 
with more sugar and cinnamon, and slips each onto a 
plate. If you like, he will sprinkle these rolls with 
Jamaica rum or kirschwasser , ignite it, and then place 
this succulent dessert before you while the sugary 
flames are dancing across its surface. 

The chefs pan for this mammoth pancake is a large, 
long-handled thin iron frying pan. Each cake is made 
with 4 or more tablespoons of batter poured into the 
heated pan, which has been generously buttered. The 
batter must be spread quickly to form a large, thin 
pancake. As soon as it bubbles and the bottom is set t 
it is turned with a wide pancake turner and baked on 
the other side. 

Here is his recipe: 

LUCHOW'S GERMAN PANCAKE 

PFANNKUCHEN 

6 eggs 

l 2 /2 cups sifted flour 

V4 teaspoon salt 

1 tablespoon sugar 

1 pint milk 

l /2 pound butter 

Powdered cinnamon in shaker 

Sugar in shaker 

Juice 1 lemon 

Preisselbeeren, huckleberry jam, cooked apples, 

or chocolate sauce 
Jamaica rum, kirschwasser (optional) 

Beat eggs lightly; beat in flour, salt, and sugar, then milk. Beat 
5 minutes in all. The batter should be thin and smooth. 

Melt enough butter in a wide frying pan to coat bottom and 
sides. When hot, pour in 4 to 5 tablespoons batter. Turn and 



186 Luchow's German Cookbook 

slant pan to make batter spread to form large, thin flat pancake. 
Cook until batter bubbles; turn; bake other side. Slip onto hot 
plate. Makes 4 to 6 pancakes. 

A wine you will enjoy with this dessert is a Chateau Yquem. 

APPLE FRITTERS WITH WINE FOAM 

3 medium-size apples 

4 cup -white -wine 

l /2 cup sugar 

4 teaspoon powdered cinnamon 

3 eggs 

1 cup sifted flour 

V4 teaspoon baking powder 

*/4 teaspoon salt 

V2 cup milk 

3 tablespoons butter 

Wash, peel, core apples. Cut in thick slices. Mix wine, sugar, 
baking powder, and cinnamon and pour over apples. Cover; let 
stand 1 hour. 

When ready to cook, mix batter by beating eggs, flour, salt, 
and milk smoothly together. Dip apples in batter and saute in 
hot butter until almost set. Top each with more batter; let cook 
until browned on both sides. Drain on thick paper toweling on 
pan in warm oven. Leave oven door open. 

Serve with Wine Foam. Serves 6. 

WINE FOAM: 

8 eggs, separated 

1 cup confectioners* sugar 

2 cup madeira 

Pinch of salt 

Beat yolks and sugar in upper part of double boiler over hot, 
but not boiling, water. When slightly thickened and foamy, 
gradually add wine; continue to beat sauce until it doubles in 



How We Cook at Luchow's 187 

bulk and begins to thicken. (Do not let water boil under it.) 
Whip egg white stiff; add salt. Fold into Wine Foam. Serve 
on fritters. Serves 6. 



STEWED APPLES IN BUTTER AND WHITE WINE 

6 apples 

3 tablespoons butter 
2 /2 cup white wine 
1/2 cup water 

1 cup sugar 

1-inch piece cinnamon stick 

1 tablespoon lemon juice 

1 tablespoon grated lemon peel 

Wash, peel, and core apples. Cut in thick slices. Saute lightly in 
butter 3 to 5 minutes in saucepan. 

Boil wine, water, sugar, cinnamon, lemon juice, and peel 5 
minutes. Pour over apples. Cook uncovered until apples are 
tender. Pour into serving dish. Serve warm or cold. Serves 6. 

APPLE STRUDEL 

APFEL STRUDEL 

2 eggs 

6 tablespoons butter 

1 cup sifted flour 
l /4 teaspoon salt 

4 medium-size apples 

l /2 cup chopped blanched almonds 

2 tablespoons finely chopped citron 
l /4 cup dried currants 

1/2 cup sugar 

l l /2 teaspoons powdered cinnamon 

Beat eggs with 3 tablespoons softened butter; gradually beat in 



188 Luchow's German Cookbook 

flour and salt. Knead dough 20 minutes. Stretch out to trans- 
parent thinness. 

Wash, peel, and core apples. Dice fruit fine and arrange along 
one side of dough. Scatter almonds and citron over apples. Wash 
and drain currants and add. Sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon. 
Dot with 1 tablespoon butter. 

Fold pastry over filling; shape in long roll. Place in long, 
lightly greased pan. Spread remaining butter over top. 

Bake in hot oven (400 F.) until pastry is golden, about 30 
minutes. Reduce heat to 350 F. and continue baking until well 
browned. Serve warm, with or without whipped cream. Serves 
4 to 6. 

COFFEE CAKE 

BUNDKUCHEN OR GUGELHUPF 

1 ounce-cake compressed yeast 

1 cup lukewarm milk 

6 cups sifted flour 

1 cup seedless raisins 

2 cup dried currants 

3 /4 cup sugar 

1 cup butter 

8 eggs 

1 tablespoon cognac or rum 

l /2 teaspoon salt 

1 tablespoon grated lemon peel 

2 cup chopped blanched almonds 

3 tablespoons confectioners' sugar 

3 tablespoons powdered cinnamon 

Dissolve yeast in milk; beat in 1 cup flour. Cover bowl loosely 
with folded towel. Let stand in warm room to rise, 1 1 /2 hours. 

Wash raisins and currants; drain. Let soak a few minutes in 
clean water. 

Beat sugar and butter together until light and fluffy. Beat in 



How We Cook at Luchow's 189 

eggs 1 at a time. Add cognac or rum, and salt. Add yeast sponge 
and remaining flour and mix smoothly. Add lemon peel, drained 
raisins and currants. Mix well, then beat until smooth and 
elastic. 

Place half of dough in greased 9-inch tube pan. Sprinkle with 
almonds; cover with remaining dough. Cover pan loosely with 
folded towel; let stand in warm, not hot, place to rise \Vi hours. 
Sprinkle with confectioners' sugar and cinnamon. Bake in mod- 
erate oven (350 F.) 45 minutes to 1 hour. Let cool. Serves 
6 to 8. 

CHRISTMAS STOLLEN 

WEIHNACHTS STOLLEN; ALSO KNOWN AS DRESDENER STOLLEN 

11 cups sifted flour 

2 cups milk 

l l /4 cups butter, melted 

6 eggs 

1 pound seedless raisins 

1 pound currants 

3 /4 cup sugar 

2 /2 teaspoon mace 

1 tablespoon grated lemon peel 

3 tablespoons lemon juice 

1 tablespoon cognac 

*/4 pound blanched almonds, chopped 
l /2 pound finely chopped citron 
2 teaspoon salt 

2 1 -ounce cakes compressed yeast, dissolved in 
V2 cup lukewarm water 

2 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

TOPPING: 

l /4 cup butter , melted 
2 tablespoons cognac 
2 cup confectioners' sugar 



190 Luchow's German Cookbook 

Sift flour into large mixing bowl. Make a hollow in the center 
and work milk, butter, and eggs in until almost all is mixed. 

Wash and drain raisins and currants. Soak a few minutes. 
Drain and combine with other ingredients. Work all into the 
dough by hand until evenly mixed. Dough should be stiff. 

Beat and fold dough over on itself repeatedly until smooth 
and all ingredients are evenly distributed. Cover bowl lightly 
with folded towel. Let set stand in warm, not hot, place 12 
hours. 

Turn dough out on lightly floured board. Pull in half. Shape 
each half into a loaf with slightly pointed ends. Place in greased 
baking pans. Cover lightly with folded towel and let stand in 
warm, not hot, place until risen to double in bulk. 

Bake in moderate oven (350 F.) about 1 hour. While still 
warm, spread with melted butter and sprinkle with cognac and 
confectioners' sugar. Makes 2 loaves; serves 16. 

FILLED BERLINER PANCAKES OR DOUGHNUTS 

FASTNACHT KRAPFEN 

1 cup milk 

1 ounce cake compressed yeast 

4V2 cups sifted flour 

2 cup butter, melted 

% cup sugar 

*/2 lemon peel t grated 

5 egg yolks, beaten 

Flour 

Currant jelly or thick cooked apples 

Lard or shortening for deep frying 

Extra sugar 

Heat milk to lukewarm. Soften yeast in 1 A cup warm milk. Stir 
2Vz cups flour smoothly into rest of warm milk. Mix yeast 
quickly into this batter. Cover lightly with folded towel and let 
stand 1 hour or longer. 



How We Cook at Litchow's 191 

After sponge has risen well, mix in melted butter, sugar, 
lemon peel, egg yolks, and remaining flour. Stir well. 

Turn dough out on lightly floured board. Fold over, then roll 
lightly to V^-inch thickness. Cut with 3-inch round cooky cutter. 
Spread half of the rounds with 1 heaping teaspoon jelly or 
cooked apples. Cover these with remaining rounds. Crimp edges 
firmly together with fingers. Leave on floured board. Cover 
lightly with folded towel and let rise in warm room Vz hour, or 
until light and puffy. 

Fry a few Berliners at a time in deep hot fat (360 F.) until 
golden brown. Remove from fat; drain on thick paper toweling. 
While hot, roll in sugar. Makes l l /2 to 2 dozen. 



FRUIT FRITTERS 

% cup sifted flour 

3 /4 teaspoon baking powder 

z/4 teaspoon salt 

*/4 cup white wine 

4 tablespoons melted butter 

2 eggs, separated 

2 teaspoon vanilla extract or cognac 

1 cup sugared raw fruit, such as sliced peaches, 

apricots, cherries, apples, or bananas 
Fat for deep frying 
Confectioners' sugar 

Sift flour, baking powder, and salt. Beat wine and butter into 
flour mixture. Beat egg yolks slightly and add. Whip egg whites 
stiff. Add flavoring or cognac to batter; fold in egg whites. 

Stir sugared fruit into batter. Drop by spoonfuls into deep 
hot fat (365 F. to 375 F.) . Fry 2 to 5 minutes. Drain on thick 
paper toweling. Sift confectioners' sugar over before serving. 
Serves 4. 



192 Luchow's German Cookbook 



OMELET SOUFFLE 

5 tablespoons sugar 
3 egg yolks 

Pinch of grated lemon rind 

6 egg whites 

Butter for baking dish 
Powdered sugar 

Beat sugar and yolks together until light and creamy; add grated 
lemon rind. Beat whites stiff; fold into yolk mixture. Pour into 
buttered shallow baking dish. Shape with spatula in oval-shaped 
mound. Make shallow depression through center with spoon. 
Bake in moderate oven (375 F.) 18 to 20 minutes. Sprinkle 
with powdered sugar a few minutes before removing from oven. 
Serve at once. Serves 2 to 3. 

Hot Chocolate Sauce or Custard Sauce may be served with 
Omelet Souffle. 

PASTRY SNAILS 

SCHNECKEN 

2 cups milk 

8 cups flour 

1 cake yeast (compressed) 

6 ounces butter, melted 

2 cup sugar 

6 eggs, beaten 

FILLING: 

1 cup brown sugar 

1 tablespoon powdered cinnamon 

2 cup dried currants 

2 cup chopped blanched almonds 



How We Cook at Luchow's 193 

V2 cup butter, melted 
Granulated sugar 

Heat milk to lukewarm; stir 2 1 A cups flour smoothly into all but 
1 A cup of the milk. Soften yeast in the 1 A cup milk, then beat 
into flour and milk mixture to make a light sponge. Cover loosely 
with folded towel and let rise in warm, but not hot, place until 
double in bulk. Then beat in butter, sugar, peel, eggs, and re- 
maining flour; mix thoroughly. Add more flour if needed. Place 
in refrigerator for approximately 8 hours. 

Roll out lightly on lightly floured board to 1-inch thickness. 

Sprinkle with sugar, cinnamon, washed and drained currants, 
and almonds. Add generous sprinkling of melted butter; roll up 
carefully. Cut crosswise in 1-inch slices. Place in floured 01 
lightly greased baking pan. Cover lightly with folded towel and 
let rise in warm, not hot, place 30 minutes. 

Bake in hot oven (425 F.) 25 minutes, or until pastry is 
golden. Brush while hot with remaining melted butter and 
sprinkle lightly with sugar. Makes 10 Schnecken. 



RASPBERRY PUDDING 

ROTE GRUTZE 

1 quart juice "from cold-pack raspberries 
% cup granulated sugar 

2 pieces lemon peel, about 1 inch long 

1 pint red wine, claret type 

2 cups water 

3 /4 cup minute tapioca 

1 cup heavy cream 

4 cup powdered sugar 

Place juice in enamel kettle; sprinkle with sugar. Add peel, 
wine, and water. Bring to a boil and cook 10 minutes. Let cool; 



194 Luchow's German Cookbook 
strain through fine sieve. Reheat juice. Add tapioca and cook, 
stirring continually, until clear, about 5 minutes. Pour into 
glass dessert dishes; fill about 4 /s full. Chill. 

Whip cream, gradually adding sugar, and decorate top of each 
dish. Serves 6 to 8. 



LUCHOW'S CHEESE CAKE 

Kuchen dough 
6 ounces butter 

2 cups sugar 

V2 cup cornstarch 

4 teaspoon salt 

10 eggs 

2Vz pounds baker's cheese or pot cheese (not 

cottage cheese) 

1 tablespoon grated lemon peel 
1 teaspoon vanilla 

3 cups milk 

3 cups heavy cream (not whipped) 

Prepare Kuchen dough proportionately and line bottom and 
sides of 12-inch spring-form cake pan. Use hand or wooden 
spoon to make smooth, even lining. Mix butter, sugar, corn- 
starch, salt, and eggs. When thoroughly mixed, add cheese, 
grated lemon peel, and vanilla. Add milk and cream. Pour into 
cake pan. 

Bake in moderate oven (350 F.) about 1 hour. When done, 
turn off heat; let cake remain in oven Vz hour longer, until 
cooled. Serves 12. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 195 



RASPBERRY TART 

HIMBEER KUCHEN 

1 2 cups sifted flour 
V4 teaspoon salt 

3 /4 cup sugar 

1 1 /2 teaspoons powdered cinnamon 

V2 cup butter 

2 eggs, beaten 

! 2 /2 quarts raspberries 

1 teaspoon cornstarch 

2 eggs, beaten 

2 cup heavy cream 

Sift flour, salt, Wi tablespoons sugar, and cinnamon together. 
Beat butter until creamy; combine with flour mixture to make 
smooth dough. Add 2 beaten eggs; mix well. 

Chill dough 1 or 2 hours. Roll out to Vs-inch thickness or 
spread with wooden spoon in 8-inch greased layer-cake pan. 
Cover bottom and sides with pastry; crimp decorative edge 
around top. Bake in hot oven (450 F.) 15 minutes. 

Wash berries; drain. Add remaining sugar. Spread berries in 
baked shell; save the little raspberry juice which remains in bowl. 
Return tart to oven and reduce heat to moderate (375 F.)* 
Bake 10 minutes. Let cool. 

Mix 1 teaspoon water and cornstarch; add to eggs and mix; 
add cream. Cook and stir in top of double boiler over hot 
water until custard is thickened. Pour over the slightly cooled 
tart. Let cool. Serves 6. 

Fresh Blueberry Tart (or Cake) (Beeren Kuchen): Substitute 
blueberries for raspberries in the above recipe- 



196 Luchow's German Cookbook 



RICE PUDDING 

1 cup rice 

2 l /2 cups milk 

Vs cup seedless raisins 

1 cup milk 

2 cup cream 

l /8 teaspoon salt 

B l /2 tablespoons sugar 

1 tablespoon butter 

1 teaspoon vanilla 

2 eggs 

l /2 teaspoon grated lemon peel 
1 teaspoon lemon juice 
1 cup whipped cream 

Wash rice; drain. Cover with 2Vz cups milk; cook covered until 
rice is fluffy and soft and milk is absorbed. Strain in colander; 
rinse with cold water; drain. Wash raisins; drain. Cover with 
water and let stand 15 minutes or longer. Drain. 

Mix 1 cup milk, cream, salt, sugar, butter, vanilla, and eggs. 
Combine with rice. Add raisins, lemon peel, and juice. Mix 
lightly. Pour into greased baking dish. Set dish in shallow pan of 
hot water. Bake in moderate oven (325 F.) until set. 

Cover with whipped cream; sprinkle lightly with mixture of 
equal portions of sugar and cinnamon. Brown top quickly. 
Serve warm or cold. Serves 6. 



PIES 

PASTRY FOR PIES AND TARTS 

1 1 /2 cups sifted flour 
2 teaspoon salt 



How We Cook at Luchow's 197 

J /2 cup lard or shortening 
4 to 5 tablespoons cold water 

Sift flour with salt. Add fat; cut in with pastry blender or blend- 
ing fork until pieces are small as marbles. Add cold water by 
teaspoonfuls, mixing lightly with fork until all pieces are barely 
dampened. 

Turn mixture on waxed paper and press lightly and quickly 
into ball. Cut dough in half and roll each half in waxed paper. 
Chill slightly in refrigerator before rolling. 

Roll pastry Ys inch thick, rolling lightly from center to outer 
edges. Line pie pan; trim edge. If it is to be baked as a shell, 
crimp decorative rim around edge. 

For covered pie, leave edge until pie is filled. With upper 
layer of pastry or pastry strips in place, crimp top or strips and 
lower pastry together by pressing with tines of fork or fingers. 
Makes pastry for 8- or 9-inch 2-crust pie. 

Filling: Delicious fillings for pie shells are stewed fruit topped 
with sweetened whipped cream: apricots, damson plums, goose- 
berries, tart cherries, strawberries, huckleberries, etc. 

PUMPKIN PIE 

Pastry for 8 -inch pie (see recipe) 

1V2 cups mashed, cooked (or canned) pumpkin 

6 eggs, separated 

Va cup brown sugar 

V4 teaspoon powdered ginger 

l /4 teaspoon powdered cinnamon 

2 2 cups milk 

l /2 cup molasses 

1/4 teaspoon salt 

Line pie pan with pastry; crimp decorative rim around edge. 
Beat pumpkin, egg yolks, sugar, spices, milk, and molasses. 



198 Luchow's German Cookbook 

Add salt to egg whites; whip stiff and fold into pumpkin mix- 
ture. Fill pie shell. 

Bake in hot oven (450 F.) 15 minutes; lower heat to mod- 
erate (325 F.) and bake 30 minutes longer. Serves 5 or 6. 



COCONUT CREAM PIE 

2 baked pie shell (see Pastry recipe) 

3 egg yolks 
3 cup sugar 

V4 teaspoon salt 

2 l /2 tablespoons cornstarch 

1 tablespoon butter 

2 cups milk, scalded 
1 teaspoon rum 

1 cup grated fresh coconut 

Beat yolks. Add sugar gradually, then salt, cornstarch, and but- 
ter. Place in top of double boiler over hot water. Stir scalded 
milk into egg mixture. Stir constantly until thickened. Let cool. 
Add coconut and flavoring. 

Pour into baked pie shell. Cover with meringue. Bake in sJow 
oven (300 F.) 15 to 20 minutes. Serves 5 or 6. 

MERINGUE FOR THIS PIE: 

5 egg whites 

s teaspoon salt 

4 teaspoon cream of tartar 

4 tablespoons granulated sugar 
2 cup grated fresh coconut 
2 teaspoon vanilla 

Beat egg whites on a platter. Whip until frothy; add salt and 
cream of tartar and continue whipping until stiff. Beat sugar and 
coconut in a little at a time. Beat in vanilla. Spread thickly over 
pie and bake as directed. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 199 



MINCE FIE 

Pastry for 2-crust pie (see recipe) 
2 cups mincemeat 
2 tablespoons cognac 

MINCEMEAT: 

1 pound beef 
2 pound suet 

2 pounds tart apples 

1 pound dried currants 

1 pound seedless raisins 

1 cup cider 

l /4 pound citron, chopped 

*/2 teaspoon powdered cinnamon 

2 teaspoon powdered cloves 

*/2 teaspoon pepper 

l /2 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

2 teaspoon salt 

Juice and grated peel 1 lemon 

Juice and grated peel 1 orange 

1 cup cognac or whisky 

Wipe meat with damp cloth; cover with water and cook slowly, 
covered, until tender, about 3 hours. Let cool. 

Wash, peel, and core apples. Wash currants and raisins; drain. 
Cover with a little cold water and let soak 30 minutes; drain. 
Put meat through food chopper with apples, suet, currants, and 
raisins. Add remaining ingredients except liquor. Mix thoroughly. 
Cook slowly 1 hour. After first 30 minutes add cognac or whisky. 
Let cool and use, or seal at once in sterile jars. Makes about 2 
quarts. Use 2 cups for each 8-inch pie. 

Roll pastry about 1 A inch thick; line pie pan; trim edge. Fill 
with mincemeat. Cover top with pastry; trim edge; press edge of 



200 Luchow's German Cookbook 

upper and lower crusts together with tines of fork or with fingers 
and crimp in decorative rim. Gash top crust in 2 or 3 decorative 
cuttings. Bake in hot oven (400 F.) 25 minutes; lower heat to 
moderate (325 F.) and bake 15 to 20 minutes longer, until 
crust is golden and done. Serves 6, 

KUCHEN DOUGH 

This dough is used for German apple, plum, peach, 
and other fruit "cakes" or Kuchen, 

5 cups sifted flour 
2 teaspoon salt 
3 A cup sugar 

6 ounces butter 
2 teaspoon mace 
Grated rind 2 lemons 
4 eggs, beaten 

1 cup milk 
2 ounce yeast 
FILLING: 

Peeled, sliced fruit 
Light brown sugar 
Powdered cinnamon 
Butter 



Sift flour, salt, and sugar together. Work butter and grated 
lemon rind smoothly into this with wooden spoon. Beat in eggs 
and add milk, in which yeast has been dissolved. With spoon 
spread dough on bottom and sides of lightly greased round cake 
pan, spring-form pan, or ovenproof dish. Crimp decorative rim 
around top. Makes dough for 1 cake, 

Apple Cake; Peach Cake; Berry Cake: Fill lined pan with 
peeled and sliced fruit. Sprinkle generously with sugar and cin- 
namon; dot with butter. Bake in a hot oven (425 F.) about 25 
minutes. Serves 4 to 6. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 201 



TORTEN 



ALMOND TORTE 

MANDELTORTE 

1 cup sugar 

6 eggs, separated 

Crated peel and juice 1 lemon 

1 teaspoon powdered cinnamon 

1 cup ground unblanched almonds 
2 to 1 cup toasted bread crumbs 
V4 teaspoon salt 

Chocolate Butter Cream Icing 

Beat sugar into egg yolks until smooth, light, and fluffy. Add 
lemon peel and juice, cinnamon, almonds, and enough crumbs 
to make light batter. Mix well. Whip egg whites stiff; fold into 
batter. Bake in greased 8-inch tube pan hi moderate oven 
(350 F.) about 1 hour. Let cool in pan. Cover with Chocolate 
(or Mocha) Butter Cream Icing. Serves 6. 

CHOCOLATE BUTTER CREAM ICING! 

2 ounces (squares) chocolate 

3 tablespoons butter 
l /4 cup heavy cream 
2 /8 teaspoon salt 

1 teaspoon vanilla or rum "flavoring 

2 cups confectioners' sugar 

Melt chocolate over hot water; stir butter into it. Heat cream 
slightly; add with salt and mix. Remove from heat. Let cool. 
Add flavoring and beat sugar in gradually. When smooth and 
good consistency for spreading, use on top of Almond Torte. 



202 Luchow's German Cookbook 

Mocha Butter Cream Icing: Substitute 3 tablespoons strong, 
freshly made coffee for chocolate in above recipe. 



HAZELNUT TORTE 

NUSSTORTE 

This is the Luchow dessert which makes famous 
actresses go off their reducing diets and is a favorite 
of men as well as women; one of the most delectable 
of all the old-time German Torten for which this 
restaurant has been famous during the seventy years 
of its existence. 

To make it, start with this special cake: 

16 pound (1 cup} granulated sugar 

9 eggs 

l /2 pound sifted cake flour 

V2 cup butter, melted 

1 teaspoon vanilla 

Mix together sugar and eggs which have been well beaten. Fold 
in flour. When it is about half finished, add the melted butter, 
then mix well together. Add vanilla. Pour into lightly greased 
spongecake form. Bake in slow over ( 325 F.) about 45 
minutes. Let cool on cake rack. Slice in 3 layers. 

FILLING: 

3 /4 pound shelled hazelnuts 
1V2 pints heavy cream 
3 /4 cup granulated sugar 
1 teaspoon vanilla 

Spread hazelnuts in pan and toast for about Vz hour in 300 F. 
oven. Rub skins off the hazelnuts, and then grind medium-fine. 
Whip cream; combine with nuts and sugar. Spread between 
cake layers. 



How We Cook at Luchow's 203 

TOPPING: 

l /2 pound (1%. cups) 4X sugar 

3 or 4 tablespoons water 

l /4 pound (1 cup) shelled hazelnuts 

Mix sugar and water together smoothly. Spread over top and 
sides of Tone. Toast nuts, remove skins, and grind (see above). 
Sprinkle on sides and decorate top with toasted nuts. Serves 
6 to 8, 

LINZER TORTE 

1 cup butter 
1 cup sugar 

1 teaspoon grated lemon peel 

2 eggs 

l l /2 cups sifted flour 

1 cup unblanched almonds, ground 

2 teaspoon powdered cinnamon 

*/2 teaspoon powdered cloves 

1 tablespoon cocoa 

4 teaspoon salt 

Raspberry jam or apple butter 

Beat butter and sugar together until creamy. Add lemon peel, 
Beat eggs in 1 at a time. Gradually add flour, almonds, spices, 
cocoa, and salt. Beat until thoroughly blended and smooth. If 
dough is very soft, chill. 

Roll to ^-inch thickness between sheets of waxed paper, 
then line shallow casserole or pie dish. Crimp decorative edge 
around top. Fill dish almost to top with raspberry jam or apple 
butter. 

Roll remaining dough, cut in strips about %-inch wide. Make 
a lattice over the preserves. Trim ends of strips and crimp to 
Tone edge. Bake in slow oven (300 R) 1 hour. Serves 6. 



204 Luchow's German Cookbook 



SAND TORTE 

5 whole eggs 
5 egg yolks 
I 1 /} cups sugar 
Grated peel of 1 lemon 

ounces sifted flour 

ounces cornstarch 
9 ounces melted butter 

Beat together the whole eggs and egg yolks. Warm up slightly. 
Add sugar and mix with eggs until mixture is quite stiff. Add 
lemon peel. Stir in flour and cornstarch, which have been mixed 
together. Add melted butter. Mix together lightly. 

Bake in greased 9-inch tube pan in slow oven (250 F.) about 
40 to 45 minutes. Serves 8 or more. 



CHERRY TORTE, BLACK FOREST STYLE 

1 quart large black cherries 
2 /2 cup kirsch 

1V2 pounds (5 cups) confectioners 9 sugar 
3 tablespoons cornstarch 
V2 pound butter 
3 egg yolks 

2 8-inch spongecake layers, 1 inch thick 
1 cup finely shaved bittersweet chocolate 

Wash cherries; remove stems and seeds. Mix kirsch and 1 cup 
sugar and pour over fruit in bowl. Let stand at least 2 hours, 




then heat to boiling. Mix cornstarch with about 2 tablespoons 
cherry juice and stir into cherries. Cook and stir until slightly 
thickened. Remove from heat and let cool. This should be con- 
sistency of thin jelly. 

Beat butter and remaining sugar smoothly together. Beat egg 
yolks into this and continue beating until mixture is light and 
fluffy. 

Place layer of cake on plate; make border around edge with 
butter mixture and spread some butter cream in circle in center 
of cake. Spread cooled, thickened cherry mixture between butter 
cream border and center. Place second layer on top; press down 
just sufficiently to make layers stick together. Cover top and 
sides of both layers with remaining butter cream. Sprinkle top 
with chocolate. Serves 6 to 8. 



206 Luchow's German Cookbook 



KAISERSCHMARRN 

German Pancake batter 

3/2 cup dry blanched raisins 

2 tablespoons butter 

Sugar 

Cinnamon 

Melt butter in frying pan, add raisins, pour over this 3 table- 
spoons batter. Fry on both sides to golden brown. Cut pancake 
with fork and spoon (do not use knife) in IVi-inch pieces. 
Dash with sugar and cinnamon. 



THE WINES, 
BEER, AND 
FESTIVALS 
AT 



Xuchotu's 



OR Down Where the Wurzburger Flows 



When August Liichow and his friends first sniffed the 
fine Bavarian fragrance of Wiirzburger Hofbrau and 
tasted its benign liquid blessing, they were overjoyed for differ- 
ent reasons. To August the beer was a happy reminder of home, 
and to those who had never been fortunate enough to sample 
such a brew, the gates to a new gastronomic heaven were thrown 
open and they hearkened to the singing of hitherto unheard 
choirs. 

Loud were the cries of anguish when they were cast out of 
this paradise by the advent of the first World War, The long dry 
reign of Prohibition following immediately after added to their 
parched misery. Then, scarcely had imported beer started flow- 
ing once more in the thirties when war ended the supply again, 
and it was not until 1950 that Wurzburger was at last obtainable. 
Meanwhile a whole thirsty generation has slipped by and a new 
one, unused to the delights of Wurzburger, awaits education. 

For the uninitiated, then, this celebrated nectar comes from 
Upper Bavaria. It is amber in color (between light and dark), 
and its special distinction is its status as the original March beer. 
When a shipment arrives, the beer has to rest from its journey 
for at least three days in the cooler before it can be served. 

Wurzburger is the glory of Liichow's beverage list, but the 



The Wines, Beer, and Festivals at Luchow's 209 

restaurant also offers seven different kinds of draught beer and 
fifteen domestic and imported bottled beers. Every week 
Liichow's uses about one hundred barrels of draught beer, which 
is maintained at a cellar temperature of forty degrees. If a guest 
wants colder beer, a glass, mug, goblet, stein, or seidel is chilled 
for him. Imported beer is usually served in big half-liter (pint) 
stone mugs with covers. 

It is not at all uncommon for the older customers to ask for 
warm beer, and in other days the restaurant had beer warmers 
nickel pipes filled with hot water in the bar. Now the task must 
be done by more modern methods. 

On its way from barrel to consumer, beer can find its way into 
considerable trouble, a thought which seldom occurs to the 
drinker who watches the brew foaming effortlessly from the tap. 
Clean pipes are essential, for instance, and some time ago we had 
the old coil system taken out because it was so difficult to clean 
the coils, and the modern Zahn system was substituted. Because 
different pressures are needed for every type of beer, each 
draught type has to have its own set of pipes. An old bartender's 
axiom reads, "The older the beer, the greater the froth," a pri- 
mary factor in determining the correct amount of pressure for 
the pipes. Our pressures vary from sixteen to eighteen pounds, 

A housewife who is particular about her cleaning would be 
well pleased with the way we clean our beer pipes. Water is run 
through them until it is clear, and this is followed by a cleaning 
solution made especially for us, which remains in the pipes for 
an hour, after which the water is resumed until it becomes clear 
once more. As a final touch, the pipes are blown out with fifty 
pounds of pressure. 

The tanks are cleaned by hand, which experience has shown 
is the most effective method. We test the success of the entire 
procedure by not drawing beer for three days, then drawing a 
test beer, which always turns out to be perfect. In less effective 
systems, the beer will not stand more than twenty-four hours 
without becoming dark and cloudy. 






T> 




212 LUchow's German Cookbook 

Besides the Wiirzburger, another beer specialty on the 
Liichow list is October beer, so called because that is the autum- 
nal moment when it is first drawn in Germany. October beer 
was also a victim of war and Prohibition, and like Wiirzburg, 
it returned to these shores in 1950, where patrons first tasted its 
strong, tangy flavor at the Venison Festival in November of that 
year. 

About Christmas time the brewers are busy preparing another 
delight for us, the heavy, dark Christmas Bock, which is poured 
out of the vats where it has been aging for eight months into 
barrels which are shipped to us. 

At Luchow's beer enjoys a festival all its own on the calendar 
of special events, when the first days of March come around and 
the Bock Beer Festival is celebrated. That, too, was resumed in 
1950 after fifteen years, and the enthusiasm for it was uncon- 
fined. While the amber herald of spring flowed unceasingly for 
three evenings, a ten-piece German band played the old songs, 
just as it did in August Luchow's time. 

As a fitting accompaniment for the revelry, we served the 
menu that traditionally goes with bock beer, which is bockwurst, 
liver dumplings Bavarian style, a Schwabenplatte consisting of 
liver sausage, roast ham, and pigs' knuckles, and pheasant on 
wine kraut. 

It was a year of festivals, revivals of the great feasts which 
made Luchow's famous, and part of my program to restore the 
flavor of the old days. There is a Venison Festival in Novem- 
ber and a Goose Feast in December, with the superb wines these 
meats demand brought up from our cellars. 

The Goose Feast is enough to start the tears from a grateful 
gourmet's eyes. It begins with a choice of Liichow appetizers, 
including marinated herring; soup made of goose giblets and a 
barley called Giblet Ecossaisse, and consomme with dumplings; 
then as a prelude to the main theme, goose ragout and potato 
dumplings, and at last the roast goose itself, served with stewed 
apples and cranberries. 



The Wines, Beer, and Festivals at Luchow's 213 

Goose is always on the Christmas dinner menu at Luchow's, 
along with roast prime ribs of beef, boiled carp, baked ham, leg 
of hare in sour cream sauce, roast turkey, and in the old days 
there was also buffalo steak. And I might say that goose lingers 
on through the Christmas holidays, its rich savor filling the nos- 
trils and the stomach. 

For both goose and venison, of course, we have the still bur- 
gundy and Rhine wines these meats require. At any time you will 
find about a thousand bottles of Rhine wine and the same nun> 
ber of Moselles in our cellar, and the warehouses hold at least 
five times that much, ready for transfer. 

We import the good French wines red Bordeaux, burgun- 
dies, sauternes, and fifteen varieties of French champagne and 
such specialties as a German champagne known as Schaumwine, 
madeira, sherries, ports, kirsch, kiimmel, and Zwetschgen Was- 
ser, a German cordial made from the pits of plums. 

In 1951, again for the first time since 1935, we held the May 
Wine Festival, amid vine leaves and grapes draped about the 
restaurant, in tribute to Bacchus, while the German band played 
the spring music that attends the festival. On the menu there is 
that seasonal dessert, cabinet pudding with May wine sauce. We 
take down our May wine bowls, hitherto filled only with history, 
and fill them with the springlike potion which has been cele- 
brated for centuries along the banks of the Rhine, and continues 
to be a great delight here at Liichow's, thousands of miles from 
Its origin. 

Again, for those who have never tasted it, May wine is Rhine 
wine to which has been added an extract of Waldmeister, the 
first plant of the German spring. Waldmeister, literally "master 
of the woods," is called woodruff in English, and is sometimes 
known, too, as May herb. The shoots are gathered when they 
are about two inches aboveground and then are tied into bunches 
and steeped in the previous year's Rhine wine for a few days, 
imparting their beneficence to it and enriching it with a flavor 
truly inimitable. The resulting extract is mixed with new Rhine 



214 Luchow's German Cookbook 

wine in large, gaily decorated May wine bowls in which float 
succulent wild strawberries. 

In the Rhineland, it is a village custom to gather in the wine 
gardens and drink May wine, singing and dancing to the folk 
music of the bands. It is, quite naturally, a time for love. Boys 
and girls walk hand in hand from town to town along the banks 
of the Rhine, sampling the May wine of each famous vineyard 
along the river. The older ones are content to stroll through the 
wine gardens of their own villages. 

Mr. Seute and his older colleagues report that wine drinking is 
regaining some of its former popularity, with a new generation 
which has had to be educated to its uses as an accompaniment to 
food. Those who discover it find the Ltichow wine card a fasci- 
nating catalogue of French and German imports, vintage wines 
and champagnes, besides American wine and champagnes, and 
Chilean, Italian, and Hungarian wines. Add to these the im- 
ported and domestic beers, and such staples as scotch, rye, and 
bourbon, gins, rums, vermouths, aperitifs, brandies, and cordials, 
and no one will find himself unsatisfied. 

But try the May wine. Here is our recipe: 

6 bunches Waldmeister, or woodruff 
l /2 pound powdered sugar 

1 cup cognac 

4 quarts Moselle or Rhine -wine 
Ice 

2 quarts champagne or charged water 
1 cup fresh strawberries 

Wash herbs. Place in large bowl with sugar, cognac, 1 quart 
Moselle or Rhine wine. Cover bowl; let stand overnight. To 
serve, strain mixture, pour over ice in a large punch bowl, and 
add remaining three quarts Moselle or Rhine wine. Add cham- 
pagne or charged water. Float strawberries in the bowl. 
Serves 10 to 15. 



INDEX 




Aal Berliner, 56 
Allen, Fred, 108 
Almond Torte, 201 
American Society of Composers, 
Authors and Publishers, 26, 
129 

Anchovy Cream Sauce, 175 
Apfel Pfannkuchen, 184 
Apfel Streuselkuchen, 183 
Apfel Strudel, 187-88 
Appetizers, 38-47 

Beef Head Salad, Pickled, 40 
Calf's Head Cheese Vinai- 
grette, 41-42 
Chicken Liver Pate, 46-47 
Herring, 42-43 
Herring, Marinated, 43 
Herring in Dill Sauce, 44-45 
Herrings in Mustard Sauce, 

44 
Herrings in Wine Sauce, 43- 

44 
Liichow's Special, 45 



Mushrooms, Pickled, 47 

Pig's Head Cheese Vinaigrette, 

40-41 
Apple: Crumb Cake, 183 

Flitters with Wine Foam, 186 

Pancakes, 184 

Strudel, 187-88 
Apples: and Onions, Fried, 158 

with Red Cabbage, 160 

Stewed, 86-87, 187 
Aspic, Madeira, 107 

Bache, Jules, 27 

Barbecued Spareribs, 114-15 

Barley Soup with Giblets, 51 

Barrymore, John, 105 

Bass. See Sea Bass 

Beans, Green, Savory, 161-62 

Beaverbrook, Lord, 103 

Bechamel Sauce, 172 

Beef, 93-110 

a la Mode, 98-99 

Boiled, 93-95, 98-99 



216 Index 

Beef (Confd) 

Breslauer Steak, Casserole, 

101 
Casserole, Bourgeoise, Boiled, 

95 
Casserole, Biirgerlich, Boiled, 

98 

German Ragout, 100-1 
Hamburger, Liichow, 102 
Hanover Style, Boiled, 93-94 
Hash, a la Llibeck, 99-100 
Hash Omelet, Boiled, 99 
Meat Balls, Swedish, 108-9 
Pot Roast with Potato Dump- 
ling, 106-7 

Prime Ribs, Roast, 107 
Raw Meat Lucullus, 105 
Roulade, August Luchow, 

109-10 
Sauerbraten, Cold, a la Mode 

in Aspic, 107 
with Sauerkraut, Boiled, 95 
Short Ribs, Broiled Deviled, 

102-3 

Sliced, in Brown Sauce, 105 
Steak Tartar, Liichow's, 104 
Tyrolienne Alps Ragout, 101 
Vienna Steak and Potatoes, 
103 

Beer en Kuchen, 195 

Beers, 27 

Berlin, Irving, 31, 95 

Berliner Entenweissauer, 85-86 

Between-the-Acts Potatoes, 166 

Biscuits, Liver, 54-55 

Blood Sausage, 130 

Blueberry Tart, 195 

Blutwurst, 130 

Bock Beer Festival, 34, 212 

Bockwurst, 132 

Brady, Diamond Jim, 26, 33 



Bratwurst, 133 

Broiled, 133 

Gastronome, 130 

and Sauerkraut Casserole, 130 
Breast of Guinea Hen, Sous 

Cloche, 89-90 

Breslauer Steak, Casserole, 101 
Brisbane, Arthur, 50-51 
Brown Sauce, 174 
Bryan, Vincent, 28 
Bundkuchen, 188-89 
Burgundy Sauce for Ham, 174- 
75 

Cabbage, Red, 158-59 

with Apples, 160 
Cakes, 183, 188-89, 194 

Apple, 200 

Apple Crumb, 183 

Berry, 200 

Cheese, 194 

Coffee, 188-89 

Dough for, 200 

Peach, 200 
Calf's Head Cheese Vinaigrette, 

41-42 
Calves' Brains: Baked, 125-26 

with Scrambled Eggs, 124-25 
Cantor, Eddie, 102 
Caper Sauce, 175 
Capon: Breast of, Mai Rose, 75 

Roast Stuffed, 74-75 
Carp, Boiled Live, Horseradish 

Sauce, 60-61 
Celery: Braised, 160-61 

Knob, Salad, 151 
Cheese Cake, Ltichow's, 194 
Cheeses, 140 
Cherry Torte, Black Forest Style, 

204-5 
Chestnuts: Boiled, 161 

with Green Kale, 162 



Chicken: a la King, 80-81 
Baked, Viennese, 83-84 
Fricassee, Berliner Art, 76-77 
Fried, a la Viennoise, 78 
Giblets, Fricassee, with Rice, 

82-83 

Half, Hungarian Style, 84-85 
Liver Pate, Homemade, 46-47 
Livers Sauteed with Apples 

and Onions, 83 
Paprika, 78-79 
Paprika with Egg Barley, 81- 

82 

Poached, Konig's Grotte, 77 
Salad, 150-51 
Soup, Cream of, 53-54 
Whole, in Casserole with 
Vegetables and Noodles, 
79-80 
Chocolate Butter Cream Icing, 

201 

Chocolate Sauce, Hot, for Ger- 
man Pancake, 181 
Chrysler, Walter P., Jr., 95 
Churchill, Sarah, 103 
Clam Chowder, Manhattan 

Style, 56-57 
Cocktail Sauce, 175 
Coconut Cream Pie, 198 
Coffee Cake, 188-89 
Cole Slaw, Liichow's, 152 
Considine, Robert, 31, 118, 125 
Consomme, Double, with Beef 

and Vegetables, 49 
Costain, Thomas B., 31 
Cottage Fried Potatoes, 165 
Crabs, Deviled, 67 
Cream Sauce, 172 
Cream Veal Goulash with Rice, 

127-28 

Cucumber Vinaigrette Salad, 153 
Cucumbers in Sour Cream, 152 



Index 217 

Curry of Lobster a 1'Indienne, 

68 
Custard Sauce, 180 

Damrosch, Walter, 104 
Darnell, Linda, 102 
Delikatesse Kalter Aufschnitt, 45 
Dessert Omelet, 141 
Dessert Sauces. See Sauces, Des- 
sert 

Dietrich, Marlene, 125 
Dill Sauce a la Charles Pickel, 

176 
Doughnuts, Filled Berliner, 190- 

91 
"Down Where the Wtirzburger 

Flows," 28 

Dreiser, Theodore, 27, 31 
Dresdener Stollen, 189-90 
Duckling in Aspic, 85-86 
Dumplings, 144-49 

for Boiled Beef, 144 

Liver, 147 

Liver, and Sauerkraut, 149 

Potato, 146-47 

Eckstein, Victor, 29, 34 
Eel, Fresh, Soup, 55 

Berlin Style, 56 

Eggs, Scrambled, 142. See also 
Omelets 

with Chicken Livers, 142 
English Sole Proven9ale, 66 

Fasan mit Ananas Kraut, 90-91 
Fastnacht Krapfen, 190-91 
Filet Mignon of Venison, Hunter 

Style, 137-38 

Fillet of Veal Goulash a la Min- 
ute with Rice, 128 



218 Index 

Fish, 59-66. See also Shellfish 
Bass, Sea, Fillets, Sauteed with 

White Grapes, 60 
Carp, Boiled Live, Horserad- 
ish Sauce, 60-61 
Salmon, Cold Gaspe, 61-62 
Salmon, Smoked, in Cocotte, 

62 

Shad, Boned, Planked, 63-64 
Shad Roe, Stuffed, 64-65 
Sole, English, Provengale, 66 
Sole, Fillet, a la Friesland, 65- 

66 

Fitzgerald, Ed and Pegeen, 91, 95 
Flagg, James Montgomery, 21 
Ford, Corey, 135 
Fougner, G. Selmer, 55 
Frederick Augustus III, 45 
Fricassee of Chicken Giblets 

with Rice, 82-83 
Fritters: Apple, with Wine 

Foam, 186 
Fruit, 191 
Fruit Soups, Cold, 58 

Gaige, Crosby, 55 
Game, 133-39 

Hare, Braised Leg, 133-34 
Hare, Jugged, 134-35 
Hare, Saddle of, Larded, 135 
Venison, Filet Mignon, Hunter 

Style, 137-38 
Venison Ragout a la Liichow's, 

136 
Venison Stew with Potato 

Dumplings, 138-39 
Game Birds. See Poultry and 

Game Birds 
Gans in Gelee, Hamburger Art, 

87-88 

Gebackenes Kalbshirn mil Ge~ 
mischtem Salat, 125-26 



Geddmpfte Rinderbrust, 98-99 
Gerducherter Lacks mil Truffeln, 

62 

German Fried Potatoes, 165 
German Pancake, Liichow's, 

185-86 

Gespickter Hasenriicken, 135 
Gish, Dorothy, 102 
Gish, Lillian, 102 
Golden, John, 129 
Golden Buck, 143 
Goose: Giblet Soup a la Offen- 
bach, 54 
Liver, Medallion, a la Lii- 

chow, 88 

Watertown, Roast, with 
Stewed Apples, 86-87 
in Wine Aspic, 87-88 
Goose Feast, 34, 212 
Goulash, 126-29 
Cream Veal, with Rice, 127-28 
Fillet of Veal, a la Minute 

with Rice, 128 

Gypsy, with Spatzle, 126-27 
with Sauerkraut, 128-29 
Spatzle, 148 
Graupensuppe unit Huhnerklein, 

51 

Gugelhupf, 188-89 
Guinea Hen, Breast of, Sous 

Cloche, 89-90 

Gypsy Goulash with Spatzle, 
126-27 

Ham and Veal Pate, 116-17 
Hamburger, Liichow, 102 
Harbach, Otto, 125 
Hare: Canadian, Braised Leg, 
Sour Cream Sauce, 133-34 

Jugged, 134-35 

Larded Saddle of, 135 



Index 219 



Hasenpfeffer, 134-35 
Hasenschlegel, 133-34 
Hash: a la Liibeck, 99-100 

Boiled Beef, Omelet, 99 
Hayes, Helen, 102 
Hazelnut Torte, 202-3 
Held, Anna, 27 

Henry, Prince, of Prussia, 28-29 
Herb Dressing, Cold, 155 
Herbert, Victor, 27, 31, 129 
Bering Salat, 42-43 
Herring: Appetizer, 42-43 

in Dill Sauce, 44-45 

Marinated, 43 

in Mustard Sauce, 44 

in Wine Sauce, 43-44 
Himbeer Kuchen, 195 
Hofmann, Oscar, 45 
Hollandaise Sauce, 177 
Hoppel-Poppel, Kopfsalat, 99 
Horseradish Sauce, 177 
Howard, Roy, 95 
Hubbell, Ray, 129 
Huhn, Ungarische Art, 84-85 
Huhn im Topf, Gemiise, Nudeln t 

79-80 

Huneker, James, 25, 26 
Husing, Ted, 31 

Icings 

Chocolate Butter Cream, 201 
Mocha Butter Cream, 202 

Jeritza, Marie, 125 

Kahn, Gus, 27 
Kaiser, Henry, 83 
Kaiserschmarrn, 206 
Kale, Green, with Chestnuts, 162 
Kalte Schale, 58 
Kartofiel Klosse, 146-47 
Kartoffel Pfannkuchen, 167-68 
Kassler Rippchen Glac4, 113-14 



Kaufman, Beatrice, 33 
Kaufman, George, 33 
Kidney, Veal, on Toast, 121-22 
Knob Celery Salad, 151 
Komgsberger Klops, 123-24 
Kraft Suppe, 50 
Kreisler, Fritz, 102 
Kuchen Dough, 200 

Lamb Chops Champillon, 110- 

11 
LeberKlosse, 147 

mit Sauerkraut, 149 
Leberwurst, 131 

Leftovers, poultry or game, 91 
Leipziger Allerlei, 169-70 
Lentils: with Bauernwurst, 49- 
50 

Puree of, 163 
Lima Beans, New, in Cream, 

163-64 

Linsen Suppe, 49-50 
Linzer Torte, 203 
Liver: Biscuits, 54-55 

Dumplings, 147, 149 

and Pork Sausage, 131 
Lobster: Bisque, 57-58 

Butter, 65-66 

Curry, a Flndienne, 68 

Newburgh, 70 

Salad, 155 

Stuffed, a la Mitchell, 69 

Thermidor, 70-71 
Luchow, August, 21, 24-26, 27, 

28, 29-30, 45 
Liichow's, history of, 20-35; 

festivals at, 212-13 
Liichow's Special Appetizer, 45 
Liichow's Welsh Rarebit, 142- 

43 

Lyonnaise Potatoes, 166 
Lyons, Leonard, 67 



220 Index 



MacManus, George, 81 
Madeira Aspic, 107 
Malone, Dudley Field, 27 
Mandeltorte, 201 
Marinated Herring, 43 
Marquand, John P., 31 
Marrow Balls, 80 
Mast Cans mit Apfeln, 86-87 
May Wine, 214 
Mayonnaise, Liichow's, 156 
Mclntyre, O. O., 20 
Meat Balls: with Caper and Sar- 
dellen Sauce, 123-24 

Swedish, 108-9 
Mencken, H. L., 27, 95, 102 
Meringue for Coconut Cream 

Pie, 198 
Mince Pie, 199 

Mocha Butter Cream Icing, 202 
Morgan, J. P., 27 
Morton, Charles, 31-32 
Murphy, Charles F., 27 
Mushroom: Omelet, 141 

Sauce, 172 
Mushrooms: Pickled, 47 

in Sour Cream, 164 
Mustard Sauce, 178 

for Broiled Fish, 173 

Nathan, George Jean, 27 
Natur Schnitzel, 122-23 

mit- Importierten Steinpilzen, 

119-20 
Noodles 

Goulash Spatzle, 148 

Fried Spatzle with Eggs, 148 
Nusstorte, 202-3 

Ochsenmaul Salat, 40-41 
Omelets 

Boiled Beef Hash, 99 



Dessert, 141 
Mushroom 

with Mushroom Sauce, 141 
Souffle, 192 
Spanish, 141 

Oysters Casino a la Luchow, 71- 
72 

Pancakes 

Apple, 184 

Filled, Berliner, 190-91 

German, 185-86 

Potato, 167-68 
Paprika Huhn, 78-79 
Paprika Sauce, 178 
Paprika Schnitzel, 122 
Parsons, Louella, 125 
Partridge, with Winekraut, 90 
Pastry: Crescents, 66 

for Pies and Tarts, 196-97 

Snails, 192-93 
Pate: Chicken Liver, 46-47 

Ham and Veal, 116-17 
Pavlova, Anna, 105 
Peas, New, with Onions, Fines 

Herbes, 164-65 
Pfannkuchen, 185-86 
Pheasant with Pineapple Kraut, 

90-91 

Pickled Beef Head Salad, 39 
Pickled Mushrooms, 47 
Pies, 196-99 

Coconut Cream, 198 

Mince, 199 

Pastry for, 196-97 

Pumpkin, 197-98 
Pigs' Feet, Deviled, 115 
Pig's Head Cheese Vinaigrette, 

40-41 

Pigs' Knuckles, 115-16 
Pork, 111-16 
Barbecued Spareribs, 114-15 



Ham, Smoked, with Brown 
Sugar Glaze, 115-16 

Ham and Veal Pat6, 116-17 

and Liver Sausage, 131 

Loin, in Aspic, 112-13 

Loin, Smoked, with Sauer- 
kraut and Grapes, 113-14 

Pigs' Feet, Deviled, 115 

Tenderloin, Brochetteof, 111- 
12 

and Veal Sausage, 133 
Porter, Cole, 103 
Pot Roast with Potato Dumpling, 

106-7 
Potato: Dumplings, 146-47 

Pancakes, Liichow's, 167-68 

Salad, Hot, with Bacon, 153 

Salad, Liichow's, 154 

Salad with Sour Cream Dress- 
ing, 154 
Potatoes: au Gratin, 166-67 

Between-the-Acts, 166 

Cottage Fried, 165 

German Fried, 165 

Lyonnaise, 166 

Parisienne, 167 
Poultry and Game Birds, 73-91 

Capon, Breast of, Mai Rose, 
75 

Capon, Roast Stuffed, 74-75 

Chicken, Baked, Viennese, 
83-84 

Chicken Fricassee, 76-77 

Chicken, Fried, a la Viennoise, 
78 

Chicken Giblets, Fricassee, 
with Rice, 82-83 

Chicken, Hungarian Style, 84- 
85 

Chicken a la King, 80-81 

Chicken Livers Sauteed with 
Apple and Onion Rings, 83 



Index 221 

Chicken Paprika, 78-79, 81- 
82 

Chicken, Poached, Konig's 
Grotte, 77 

Chicken, Whole, Casserole 
with Vegetables and Noo- 
dles, 79-80 

Duckling in Aspic, 85-86 

Goose, Watertown, Roast, 86- 
87 

Goose Liver, Medallion, a la 
Liichow, 88 

Goose in Wine Aspic, 87-88 

Guinea Hen, Breast of, Sous 
Cloche, 89-90 

Leftovers, 91 

Partridge, Baby, with Wine- 
kraut, 90 

Pheasant with Pineapple 

Kraut, 90-91 
Preisselbeeren Sauce, 181 
Prime Ribs of Beef, Roast, 

107-8 
Puddings 

Raspberry, 193 

Rice, 196 
Pumpkin Pie, 197-98 

Rebhuhn in Weinkraut, 90 
Rachmaninoff, Sergei, 129 
Ragout: a la Deutsch, 100-1 

German Beef, 100-1 

Tyrolienne Alps, 101 

Venison, 136 
Raspberry: Pudding, 193-94 

Tart, 195 

Raw Meat Lucullus, 105 
Reh Ragout, 136, 138-39 
Rice Pudding, 196 
Rinderbrust Burgerlich, 95 
Rinderbrust Sauerkraut, 95 
Roberts, Kenneth, 31 



222 Index 



Rodgers, Richard, 31 
Romberg, Sigmund, 136 
Roosevelt, Theodore, 27, 136 
Roquefort Dressing, Liichow's, 

156 

Rot Kraut mit Apfeln, 160 
Rote Griitze, 193-94 
Russell, Lillian, 27 
Russell, Rosalind, 83 

Sahne Goulasch mit Reis, 127- 

28 
Salad Dressings, 155-56 

Cold Herb, Liichow's, 155 

Mayonnaise, Liichow's, 156 

Roquefort, Llichow's, 156 
Salads, 150-55 

Chicken, 150-51 

Cole Slaw, Liichow's, 152 

Cucumber Vinaigrette, 153 

Cucumbers in Sour Cream, 
152 

Knob Celery, 151 

Lobster, 155 

Potato, Liichow's, 154 

Potato, Hot, with Bacon, 153 

Potato with Sour Cream 

Dressing, 154 
Salmon: Cold Gaspe, 61-62 

Smoked, in Cocotte, 62 
Salm vom Gaspe, 61-62 
Sand Torte, 204 
Sauces, 171-80 

Anchovy Cream, 175 

Bechamel, 171 

Brown, 174 

Burgundy, for Ham, 174-75 

Caper, 175 

Cocktail, 175 

Cream, 172 

DiU a la Charles Pickel, 176 

Hollandaise, 177 



Horseradish, 177-78 

Mushroom, 172 

Mustard, 173, 178 

Paprika, 178 

Sour Cream, 179 

Tartare, 156 

Tomato, 179-80 

Veloute, 180 

Vinaigrette, 176-77 
Sauces, Dessert, 180-81 

Chocolate, Hot, for German 
Pancakes, 181 

Custard, 180 

Preisselbeeren, 181 
Sauerbraten: Cold, a la Mode in 
Aspic, 107 

mit Kartoffel Klosse, 106-7 
Sauerkraut, Baked, with Apples, 

168 
Sausage, 129-33 

Blood, 130 

Bratwurst, Broiled, 133 

Bratwurst and Sauerkraut 
Casserole, 130 

Pork and Liver, 131 

Pork and Veal, 133 

Strassbourg Truffle, 131-32 

Veal, 132 

Schlemmerschnitte, 105 
Schnecken, 192-93 
Schnitzel: a la Luchow, 118-19 

Hoist ein, 111 

Natur, 122-23 

Natur, mit Importierten Stein* 
pilzen, 119-20 

Paprika, 122 
Scrambled Eggs, 142 
Sea Bass, Fillets, Sauteed with 

White Grapes, 60 
Sennett, Mack, 27 
Seute, Ernst, 22, 38, 214 
Shad, Boned, Planked, 63-64 



Shad Roe, Stuffed, 64-65 
Shellfish, 67-72 
Crabs, Deviled, 67 
Lobster, Curry, a 1'Indienne, 

68 

Lobster, Stuffed, a la Mitch- 
ell, 69 

Lobster Newburgh, 70 
Lobster Thermidor, 70-71 
Oysters Casino a la Liichow, 

71-72 
Shrimps, Chicken Fried, with 

Tartare Sauce, 73 
Short Ribs, Broiled Deviled, 

102-3 
Shrimps, Chicken Fried, with 

Tartare Sauce, 73 
Sinzig, Baron Ferdinand, 28 
Smith, Al, 27 

Smoked Loin of Pork with 
Sauerkraut and Grapes, 
113-14 
Sole: English, Provengale, 66 

Fillet, a la Friesland, 65-66 
Soups, 48-58 

Barley, with Giblets, 51 
Beef with Marrow, 50 
Chicken, Cream of, 53-54 
Clam Chowder, Manhattan 

Style, 56-57 
Consomme, Double, with 

Beef and Vegetables, 49 
Eel, Fresh, 55, 56 
Goose Giblet, a la Offenbach, 

54 
Lentils with Bauernwurst, 49- 

50 

Lobster Bisque, 57-58 
Venison, 52-53 
Sour Cream Sauce, 179 
for Venison, 138 



Index 223 

Spaeth, Sigmund, 33 
Spanish Omelet, 141 
Spareribs, Barbecued, 114-15 
Spatzle, Fried, with Eggs, 148 

Goulash, 148 
Speck Salat, 153 
St. Hubertus Suppe, 52-53 
Steak, Vienna, and Potatoes, 103 
Steinway, William, 25, 26-27 
Stollen, Christmas, 189-90 
Strassbourg Truffle Sausage, 

131-32 
Strassburger T ruff el Leberwurst, 

131-32 

Strudel, Apple, 187-88 
Sullivan, Frank, 102 
Siilz Kotelett, 112-13 
Suppe, Heidelberger Art, 5354 
Suppentopf, 49 
Swedish Meat Balls, 108-9 
Swope, Herbert Bayard, 95 
Szegedine Goulasch, 128-29 

Tartare Sauce, Liichow's, 156 
Tomato Sauce, 179-80 
Torten, 201-5 

Almond, 201 

Cherry, Black Forest Style. 
204-5 

Hazelnut, 202-3 

Linzer, 203 

Sand, 204 

Toscanini, Arturo, 129 
Traubei, Helen, 31, 67, 103 
Turnips, Boiled, 168-69 
Tyrolienne Alps Ragout, 101 

Veal, 116-26 

Calves' Brains, 124-26 
Chops, Nature, 122-23 
Cutlets, 117-20 
Fillet, with Kidney, 120-21 




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